When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have read many posts regarding the coil and its wiring, but can't find an answer to my question.
I have a 70 BB and noticed the two wires to the + terminal on the coil are hotter (to the touch) than I think they should be. The coil (not original) has printed on it "External Resistor Required". Both wires to the + terminal have an outer wrapping, one going to the starter solenoid and one going to the junction box at the fire wall with the other wires in the harness. To my knowledge, there is not an external resistor (like the earlier model years) on my 70.
My contact at an auto parts store says he has a coil that has an internal resistor that I should be using. What coil is the right one?
Is the wire running to the firewall (on to the ignition) acutally provide resistance?
Car runs fine, just concerned about the heat being generated by the wires.
It's been a long time since I did anything with a points and coil ignition, but, I think the coil gets pretty warm. I don't think you have a problem. The wire to your firewall should be a resistor wire so I think you're OK on resistance as well.
It's been a long time since I did anything with a points and coil ignition, but, I think the coil gets pretty warm. I don't think you have a problem. The wire to your firewall should be a resistor wire so I think you're OK on resistance as well.
The wire which goes to the solenoid is a plain piece of wire. It's used when cranking the engine. The load from the starter lowers the voltage available to the coil a bit so no resistor is needed while cranking. The wire going to the firewall is resistance wire. This wire supplies power to your coil when the engine is running. Overall resistance depends on the length of the wire. If the coil you're using now has similar specs as the original, same resistance, you should be OK. The coil will get warm while running, some generated internally, some heat from the engine.
If you know the manufacturer and part# of the coil you have now, maybe check to see what that manufacturer recommends.
While you can measure lower voltage from that 'resistor' line, it isn't there to lower the voltage. It is there to limit the current flow in that line so that it doesn't over-current the coil. The only way to know if that line is a 'resistance wire' line is to disconnect it from the coil connection, then use a pin-probe to poke thru the insulator at the fuse-block end and measure the wire resistance with an ohmeter. That wire should measure 1.35 ohms (or so) if it is resistance wire. If it is just normal wire, you will get a very low resistance reading (under .2 ohms). If you have regular wire, you will need to replace it with resistance wire or install a 1.35 ohm ballast resistor in the circuit to replace that load. Then you will need to have a coil made for your system (use with external resistor) so that it will all work correctly. You may also just have a bad coil or a defective condenser.