Ive decided i wanna make my 350 into a 383 stroker. I just still dont get what you have to do different to make it a 383. How do you make a 383 stroker?

Do i need any specific cam? Will this one not give it as much HP as it is capable of doing? http://www.compperformancegroupstore...gory_Code=HFTT

Whats a good forged crank shaft for it?

Whats a good compression?

Will i need this http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr....0.0.0.0?pp=8&

What should i bore the engine at?

 

Basically a 383 is a 350, bored .030 to 4.030 with a longer stroke crankshaft, 3.75 vs 3.50 inch. Pistons and crank are therefore replaced in the conversion. The original rods can be reused. Block needs to be clearanced somewhat.
Camshaft selection is open to many factors: hi / low rpm power, idle quality, etc.
Piston and head selection also involves choice of compression ratio. This also affects camshaft choice. Lots of variables.

 

You'll have to replace heads and intake as well to get the full benefit of a stroker -- you need parts that will make it breath good. One of the first questions that you are going to be ask is "What's your budget?" There are a lot of options out there and it can get real expensive quickly. Get a realistic budget first, then the guys here can help you pick the parts. Also, how will you use the car? Cruiser? Racer? Daily Driver? What is your target HP?

As far as cranks, you might want to look at a Scat internally balanced rotating assembly. I'd spend a couple of months reading everything I can about building a stroker. There is a lot of good info here on CF if you do an advanced search.

 

In addition, I used 6" rods which required clearancing the block up by the cam bosses (underneath of course) as well.

 

You can buy a complete forged rotating assembly that will set you back at least $1500+. You will also need to think about the top end, which is very important. I've been thinking about building a 383 stroker myself. I have a complete brand new rotating assembly in my closet, but don't know if I should go that route. I've been wanting to do an LSX swap since I have an LM7 engine on the engine stand.

 

Did you ever finish reading all those books and articles you were supposed to after your last post wanting to install a new cam???


A 383 can be quite an investment. Mine didnt run me to much since I picked up a lot of spare parts from the builder. I had it done just after dirt track season ended and he had a bunch of spare parts and plenty of time on his hands, so he was happy to get some stuff of his shelf. I already had the intake and carb, and I went flat tappet with roller tips instead of full roller (which I still regret... I knew better than that.. lol).
Anyways, even going a more budget route I still spent close to 5k including a little suspension work to handle the power when all was said and done.

 

Yeah i have been reading the books. The 383 is my dads idea. I wanna do it but im still not knowledgeable enough about engines in general to make my own part choices.

Here is some extra info:

-I want a cam that gives it a loud choppy idle but also preforms well

-Im not gonna put a supercharger on it

-I wanna use forged pistons, rods, crankshaft

-This will be a street cruiser but in the future once i learn more about building and even knowing what gives a engine more HP ( ) i wanna drag race it in competitions.

-I dont know the budget yet.

Things I still wanna know:

-Whats a Scat internally balanced rotating assembly?

-Whats a good compression ratio? I want it to be higher thats all i know.

-Will i need the MSD-6AL Ignition with for the high compression ratio?

-Does anyone know of any books that talk about building a 383 stroker out of a 350?

 

-Here is a Scat rotating(internally balanced and forged) assembly and an idea of how much it will cost you:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-40605BI/

-The compression ratio will depend on how you will use the car. With a good pair of aluminum heads you should be safe at around 10:1. What's the highest octane fuel available at your local gas stations?

 

There is so much information out there on 383's by now that you should really be able to read an article or 4 and figure which one you want and copy the specs - heads, cam, pistons, etc and just put it together (or have it put together for you).

 

My grandpa owns a shell station so i use the V-Power there plus i put in 3oz's (exactly 3oz's cause i have a measuring device) of this for every 10 gallons i pump (like the bottle says). http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...XEB5VMFHVT8D4A

 

First articles on a google search.....the interwebz are full of answers.

http://www.chevymania.com/chevymania/tech/383.htm

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ine/index.html

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ild/index.html

http://www.streetlegaltv.com/forum/b...could-593.html

http://ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

 

What does it mean when they say Internally balanced? How do you balance a engine block?

 

Read some books and you will learn all these answers. Two common ways a SBC was balanced, externally using weights on the front balancer and flywheel or internally by adding or subtracting weight from the rotating assembly (crank, pistons, rods). A good balance job will also make sure your balancer and flywheel/pressure plate is neutral balanced as well.

 

 

Hate to say it, but if you're stuck on these basic questions then you're going to have trouble properly building any engine let alone a 383.

However, for some general recommendations I'd strongly suggest you look at a hydraulic or solid roller cam kit. Nothing too extreme but still one or the other. If you have driven a LT1 or LS1 you'd know what I mean. The LT1 has a great torque curve and the main reasons are a decent EFI system and the hydraulic roller cam. THe LS1 more or less added much better heads and intake and it even performed better as a result. Look at a Lunati 1020LK cam kit as an example, just one I was thinking about using.

If you are looking at installing new bottom end parts (crank, rods, pistons) then there really is no reason not to do a 383 because the cost will be pretty similar to doing the same and sticking to 350 sized parts.

Details. The details are what will bite you in the ***. The difference between a strong engine and a weak "could be" is usually in the details. There are lots of guys with great engine combos and these are because they use well matched parts and every detail is taken care of (clearances, quench, gasket/port matching, tuning etc).

One other thing, pay a lot of attention to the quench height (the space between the flat part of the top of the piston and the head). I really believe this is one area that is often overlooked and it can mean the difference between your 9:1 or 10:1 compression engine working or not.

OK, yet another thing. Add up the price of this stuff and then look at how much you can purchase and install say a LS6 for. The LSx engine series really are great engines for swaps like this. You get a great fuel injection setup and an engine that can really make great power. You'll have to really pay attention to the details and know what you're doing to build an "old school" 350 or 383 that will match or exceed the power and fun street driving factor a stock LS6 will give you.

Peter

 

i recommend the second one

 

I'm in the process of doing this now. I ordered a Scat rotating assembly kit for 9:1 comp, Edelbrock top end kit, holley 750 carb, and I called Comp Cams for a cam selection. Over all this was going to be on a budget and so far I have about $3500 in it and thats just including the big stuff. Once finished I'll have over $4000 in it. If I could go back I would have done an LS1 Implant. You just can't beat the power. Good luck

 

That's why I'm looking into getting rid of my rotating assembly. Those LSX engines are beasts and much more reliable. It's easier to squeeze more power out of them too.

 

Thanks! I think im just gonna stick to the 350. How do you match good parts together? Like how do you figure out if the parts will work good together? Trial and Error?

 

Hick: There is too much info on this to post here. Look at existing combos and ask yourself which would be best for you. Here on the forum you can even ask the owners how happy they are and what they might change in their combo if they could do it over. We all make mistakes.

Gears, trans and suspension have to be considered. There are just too many variables. You will have to live w/your choices for some time.
Take advantage of the hard earned and expensive experience of the forum and don't burn them out w/questions that have been answered many, many times.
Sometimes a big HP engine is not all that fun or pratical on the street.
You notice I haven't even mentioned BUDGET! JMHO

R