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Replacing Side Yoke Seals

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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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Default Replacing Side Yoke Seals

I picked up a used differential with a 3.55 gear set. The replacement unit looks to be in great condition but I want to replace the pinion and side yoke seals while I've got it on the bench. I've found several good write ups on the pinion seal replacment so that's covered. I've found lots of discussion about side yoke seals but nothing that speaks to the process. I've got the seals ready to go. The end of the side yoke shafts look great with no wear and still seems to have the original taper. So do I simply pull the snap rings, pull the yokes out, remove the old seals, install the new ones, slide the yokes back and install the snap rings? Will everything stay in place when the shafts are removed? I just want to ensure that when I pull the yokes, things aren't going to go flying around in there. Thanks.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 06:30 PM
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Nothing will fly out at you. Yes just remove the snap rings and slide the yokes out. Replace the seals and slide it all back together. You will have to remove the cross pin.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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Why does he have to remove the cross pin ?
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
Why does he have to remove the cross pin ?
It is one heck of a lot easier to get the snap rings off. You can do it without removing it but I can't get my crappy snap ring pliers in there with the cross pin in the way. Yea I know get a better set of snap ring pliers.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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Measure the in/out play on the yokes. That will tell you if you have wear on the yokes and/or posi clutches.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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Thanks a bunch...you folks are not only good, but quick too. I just went up to the shop to clean up the gasket surfaces and piddle around and already have my answer. I'll finish up the seals tonight and install the diff in the morning. Appreciate the help.
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
It is one heck of a lot easier to get the snap rings off. You can do it without removing it but I can't get my crappy snap ring pliers in there with the cross pin in the way. Yea I know get a better set of snap ring pliers.
How soon we forget , your right they can be a little stubborn. Many years ago I bought a set of 90 degree fixed tip pliers specifically for those 2 snap rings. Definitely took the cussing out of removing them.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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Default Little more help please.

Snap rings...no problem, Seals replaced. Tried to install the diff and the ring gear hits on the rear cover as the side yokes hit on the floor board. I had a problem getting the diff out because of this bind, but with the weight of the diff, I was able to work it back and forth until it fell out. Now, with gravity working against me I can't get it back in. The only thing I can think of is maybe I didn't loosen the spring mount bolts enough and the trailing arms are allowing the spring to pull the bottom of the rear cover forward. I could loosen the bolts more if you think that would help...just not sure. It's too heavy to keep trying without either getting space relief or a tranny jack to force the issue.....
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 04:47 PM
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You didnt pull the diff out the front leaving the rear cover in the car did you ?
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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Yep....that's what both the GM service manual and the Clymers have for the procedure so that's what I did...otherwise, you've got to drop the spring out too, right?
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 68vertible
Yep....that's what both the GM service manual and the Clymers have for the procedure so that's what I did...otherwise, you've got to drop the spring out too, right?
The GM says to do it that way ? Interesting !
I had a guy at my house buying a 3:08 that I was selling and he said he removed the rear end the same way you did.
I honestly would never have thought it could be done like that,I'm going to look in my GM manual.

Yes to do it the way I do it you would have to remove the spring.
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Old Oct 17, 2010 | 07:03 PM
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Well I'll be darned , that's a new one on me , manual has pics to.
I wonder how many guys do it this way ?
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 04:32 PM
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Not sure, but it's not really working so well for me.

It seems the rear cover is tilted forward at the bottom because the wheels dropping down rotated the trailing arm end down and forward. I'd thought about lowering the car a bit to place some weight back on the rear wheels to rotate the trailing arms up pushing the bottom of the cover backwards. But with the half shafts out and the strut rods loose, there's nothing really there to push things up straight. I'm thinking loading the rear wheels with nothing to help the trailing arms is a bad idea.

So at this point, I'm struggling for the right answer.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 05:30 PM
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The spring to trailing arm bolts could be forcing the spring forward which would push the bottom of the cover forward. I think your right raising the trailing arms might allow the cover to rotate down and back. (The spring is pressing down at the trailing arms end so dont take the nuts off the long spring bolts.)
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