I will be reinstalling my left instrument panel soon, speedo and tach.
Do most people remove the steering column before installing? I've reinstalled the panel a few times over the years, recall it's nearly impossible to get enough clearance to install wiring, vacuum lines, speedo cable and tach cable without at least lowering the column.

This is an early 70, short wiring harness which goes behind the speedo and tach.

 

I only lower the column, I dont remove it. Then I put a shop rag or something on the column to rest the dash panel on so that I dont scratch the paint too much.

I dont have an easy way to do this job. I have had to do it 3 times in the last 6 months and am about to do it again. Each time I have to lay on the floor feet out the roof to get it all hooked up.

Good luck , I will be watching this post .

 

Last time I did it, I had the steering column out and it seemed easier than with it in. I found a cardboard box to sit the dash panel on that was just the right height. Made it easy to connect the wires. My car is a convertible so I also had the top down. This made it easier to see the wires.

I was able to connect nearly everything from the top. This is the way I will do it in the future. I clamped a pair of vice grips on the lip near the bottom of the windshied and let it hold up the wiring harness.

Good luck

Roger

 

It is amazing how much "stuff" is stuffed in there! I just did this after putting in a new circuit board in my tach. I just removed the two bolts in the steering column so that it relaxed downward (although it really doesn't drop much). This gave me just enough room to squeeze it into place. It seems like you have to have the wire harness just right or you will not get it into the exact spot needed for the dash screws to align. BTW, change all the light bulbs in there while you have got it out - you don't want to be pulling it again. :-) I believe there are twelve bulbs - might be a couple more in that cluster. ORiley has them - they are number 1895 bulbs - come two in a pack.

 

I've done this several times over the years. A task I avoid if possible.
Problem is the harness isn't long enough to tilt the panel forward very far. Seems most work has to be done blind or from underneath.
Having the column out of the way makes it a bit easier but adds extra work.

I had wondered whether there was a better way to install. Sounds like there isn't. I have to wonder how they did it in St Louis with limited time?

My dash top is out right now as well. Helps some but not a lot.

I replaced ALL bulbs the last time I was in here. Very little run time since then so the bulbs should be fine.

 

Hi,
I loosen and drop the column down too.
I believe it's wise to support the column in the lowered position so all the weight isn't on the lower column bearings.
Regards,
Alan

 

Hi Alan,

I've done it a few ways, taken the column out or loosened and rested on something, tied a rope around the column and hung from the header bar. Lately I remove the two bolts holding the column to the bracket.
Then I loosen but do not remove the two bolts which fasten the flange to the firewall. This gives me some droop. To get more I think I've had to loosen the nuts on the rag joint if not remove.

There doesn't seem to be an easy way to deal with this. Given the lack of space behind the panel it's important to get everything right.

Maybe remove the driver's seat this time and steering wheel, see what it buys me...

BTW: Any easy way to check the lower column bearings while I'm in here?

 

It is interesting that you guys talk about removing the steering column bolts and having to support it. When I removed these bolts on my 76, the steering wheel only dropped about a 1/4 inch. This isn't much but I don't think I would have been able to remove or reinstall the cluster without this 1/4 inch. Maybe the later assembly is different from the earlier ones but I don't understand the need to "support" the column since it barely moves.

 

Mine doesn't move much either until I loosen the nuts on the column flange at the firewall. It won't drop all the way down unless I loosen or remove the nuts from the rag joint.

 

remember that the wiring harness attaches to the dash, not the body. by pulling as much slack as you can get up toward the dash, and only after the dash is positioned fastening the harness to the cowl, you'll have enough free-play in the wiring to make it easier.

 

We are installing a left dash pad on Weds and going to do a video of it. But, we have the steering column out of the car. Why? I'll explain:

When installing a new dash pad and not pulling the column you tend to rest the pad on the steering column. This can put creases in the lower section of the dash pad that warps around the column.. it can also cause a wrinkle.

You also run the risk of scratching the paint off the column when you leave it in.

Another benefit you get from pulling the column is that you can tilt the new pad back further to install the harness connections.

It's pretty easy to remove the column from the car and to do so.. There are two bolts at the firewall, two under the dash and then the one at the coupler. Boy that sounds easy.. but don't be miss-lead.

It always seems to make the job much easier but it is not required by no means.

IMHO,

Willcox

 

I agree. I've done a few in and outs of the left dash pad with the steering column dropped. Finally on my 68, I removed the column completely to re-install the dash pad....it was soooooo much easier.

I really struggled on my 70 to remove the vacuum booster nuts located on the passengers side of the firewall. This was a terrible job. (There's a lot of threads about how to do this.) This was in preparation for installing a hydrobeast. To install the hydrobeast, I removed the steering column. Now it was an issue of day and night. An extremely difficult and tedious job now became simple.

The columns are pretty easy to reiinstall.

Tips: On my 68, in messing around with the wire harnesses, I couldn't get the dash pad back on because of interference with the now mislocated harnesses. I removed the speedo and tach from the dash pad and then went to reinstall the pad. Now I could look through the holes where the tach and speedo used to be and I could see where I was getting my interference. I just moved the harness around a bit and then everything fit. This also was done with the column removed.
Of course I removed the pad to reinstall the speedo and tach!

Also, I make a special harness for all the light bulbs around the speedo and tach assemblies. This way I have a harness that connects all the light bulbs and the harness has single connector. Also a harness for all teh light bulb wires coming out of the main firewall harness (all those grey wire). When the dash pad is back in place, the steering column installed, the last thing I do is snap the harnesses together.

 

hey everyone. maybe you guys can help me im trying to change my speedo/tach cable as well but im not sure how to lower the column. i removed the 4 bolts that had the column held lowered it a lil but not enough to remove the left pad any tips for me im really new at this but pretty handy no tilt wheel column and my car is a 74

 

can anyone tell me where the little chip and bulb go on the back of the gauge panel on an 80 vette? It fell off and I'm not sure which hole to put it back into It has a light bulb and a small electronic panel it's the only one like it all the rest are just lightbulbs

 

Same here.

I'd be willing to bet the dash went in first, steering column after that. They also had the advantage of performing the task about 120 times a day, putting them in...not taking them out.