pulling motor advice
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,435
Likes: 9
From: Kalamazoo Mi
pulling motor advice
I am pulling the motor on my 80 this weekend to turn it into a 383. I have a good grasp on what i am doing but i have a few last questions.
is it easier to pull the engine and tranny out as one unit?
and more importantly how much time should i set aside for this?
i was looking at the radiator today and was wondering if i can pull the rad and condenser out by removing the radiator support. This looks like it may save some time. Is this true?
cheers all
Steve
is it easier to pull the engine and tranny out as one unit?
and more importantly how much time should i set aside for this?
i was looking at the radiator today and was wondering if i can pull the rad and condenser out by removing the radiator support. This looks like it may save some time. Is this true?
cheers all
Steve
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 314
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
The factory installed it that way. Makes sense to take it out that way. I can't speak for an '80 SB with A/C (and auto?), but it should work the same. Use a good quality engine leveler and consider coming in from the side with a cherry picker, removing one of the front wheels. Car should be on jack stands...I put the rear wheels on ramps and had the front on jack stands set to the lowest position...gave the car a slight incline. You may want to consider propping up the front clip when you pull the radiator core support package...probably not necessary though.
The amount of time it will take depends on the help you have and the amount of beer consumed.
The amount of time it will take depends on the help you have and the amount of beer consumed.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Are you going to have the transmission rebuilt? If the trans is staying in the car with no mods then leave it in. I have pulled many an automatic motor out without pulling the trans. In fact it is very easy to pull just the motor out. If you just pull the motor out you don't even have to pull the radiator. Remove the lower pulleys and it will come out no probelm. The time it takes depends on your skill and tool level. I can have mine out in about 2 hours by myself. I swear mine has zippers on it by now.
If you are planning on doing trans work then pull it out as a unit.
If you are planning on doing trans work then pull it out as a unit.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,485
Likes: 81
From: Santo TX
These guys pretty much covered it. I don't think I'd pull the radiator support because it does tie the front end fiberglass to the frame. An engine leveler is a must if pulling it with the transmission. Don't forget the ground strap on the pass. side near the engine mount. The hoist arm needs to be fully extended.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 476
Likes: 0
From: Easton PA
ive pulled my motor every winter it should have velco mounts. floor jack under trans, dont touch rad support., remove hood and your good to go. i have a small 2 car garage so i lower vehicle as low as possible on jacks stands but high enough that engine hiost slips under, and cringe as you motor dangles over you fender.
Last edited by straub18045; Oct 20, 2010 at 09:49 AM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
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From: Somers CT
Are you going to have the transmission rebuilt? If the trans is staying in the car with no mods then leave it in. I have pulled many an automatic motor out without pulling the trans. In fact it is very easy to pull just the motor out. If you just pull the motor out you don't even have to pull the radiator. Remove the lower pulleys and it will come out no probelm. The time it takes depends on your skill and tool level. I can have mine out in about 2 hours by myself. I swear mine has zippers on it by now.
If you are planning on doing trans work then pull it out as a unit.
If you are planning on doing trans work then pull it out as a unit.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
From: bethpage NY
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Drifting
Joined: May 2005
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From: Somers CT
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
Separate trans from engine, unhook alternator wires, A/C compressor unbolted from mount and set aside (tie to to the fender with wire), same for P/S pump, remove the pulleys, unhook all hoses, unhook and pull the distributor, take out the two long motor mount bolts, unhook the ground cable, unhook and remove the starter, remove the three torque converter bolts, unhook the exhaust pipes from the manifolds, remove the six bell housing bolts, unbolt the accelerator cable bracket (and cruise control bracket), jack up the front end, remove a front tire (I use the right side), put a jack under the trans (use a board or something between the jack and pan), hook up the engine hoist as previously recommended, double check that everything is loose, then GENTLY raise the engine while slightly moving it forward to release the transmission, then lift it up and over the fender. Leave the hood, radiator, and shroud in place. Cake.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 263
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From: bethpage NY
yea about 6-8 hours i think. it was the first time pulling a motor out of a car ( i pulled 1 out of a bmw and a honda but i cut the frone end off and pulled straight out so not sure if they count 
) i pulled the hood, rad. and support, carb and ps pump and i left the trans in the car though i did pull that later. it wasnt so bad just a PITA from the side cause the nose is so long and i did break the shroud trying to force it out . i am planning however to reinstall the motor and trans as one
) i pulled the hood, rad. and support, carb and ps pump and i left the trans in the car though i did pull that later. it wasnt so bad just a PITA from the side cause the nose is so long and i did break the shroud trying to force it out . i am planning however to reinstall the motor and trans as one
Last edited by mj9311; Oct 21, 2010 at 10:14 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 33
From: ct
Separate trans from engine, unhook alternator wires, A/C compressor unbolted from mount and set aside (tie to to the fender with wire), same for P/S pump, remove the pulleys, unhook all hoses, unhook and pull the distributor, take out the two long motor mount bolts, unhook the ground cable, unhook and remove the starter, remove the three torque converter bolts, unhook the exhaust pipes from the manifolds, remove the six bell housing bolts, unbolt the accelerator cable bracket (and cruise control bracket), jack up the front end, remove a front tire (I use the right side), put a jack under the trans (use a board or something between the jack and pan), hook up the engine hoist as previously recommended, double check that everything is loose, then GENTLY raise the engine while slightly moving it forward to release the transmission, then lift it up and over the fender. Leave the hood, radiator, and shroud in place. Cake.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
I didn't see anybody mention this, but every engine hoist I've seen is too short to lift your engine from the front. I put my '80 on jack stands, removed the front left wheel, and came in from the side. The problem then will be that the hoist will not lift straight up. It will lift to the outside, and you will need to keep moving the hoist to stay straight above the engine. The same is true when lowering everything back in.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,503
Likes: 33
From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
I didn't see anybody mention this, but every engine hoist I've seen is too short to lift your engine from the front. I put my '80 on jack stands, removed the front left wheel, and came in from the side. The problem then will be that the hoist will not lift straight up. It will lift to the outside, and you will need to keep moving the hoist to stay straight above the engine. The same is true when lowering everything back in.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
Mine hoist is from Harbor Freight and has a 2 ton capacity. The lift arm is adjustable and I had very little trouble. Having someone "drive" the hoist is very helpful. I see your point about being able to lift straight up. The long arm made it a little less of a problem.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
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From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
I didn't see anybody mention this, but every engine hoist I've seen is too short to lift your engine from the front. I put my '80 on jack stands, removed the front left wheel, and came in from the side. The problem then will be that the hoist will not lift straight up. It will lift to the outside, and you will need to keep moving the hoist to stay straight above the engine. The same is true when lowering everything back in.
http://www.boomnit.com/Cars/Project71/Engineswap.html
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 50
From: Prosper TX
That is what I had to do with my 71. I have some good shots of putting the ZZ4 in the car, but the removal of the previous engine went about the same. Check out this link.
http://www.boomnit.com/Cars/Project71/Engineswap.html
http://www.boomnit.com/Cars/Project71/Engineswap.html
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,941
Likes: 281
From: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Cruise-In IX Veteran
I did the ZZ4 350. At the time I did the swap it was because the engine came with a warranty and I was still in school. I was very pleased with the swap. I never got a chance to reach the full pontential of the engine though due to Hurricane Katrina. I would definitely do it again if I had the chance. My current plans though are to put a 454 in the car as I am restoring it.
