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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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Default Braided Hose

One of the repairs I'm doing on my '72 big block is to replace a bunch of rubber hose and gear clamps with braided stainless and AN fittings. I've tried quite a few methods and tools but finally found a reliable and relatively cheap process.

I wanted to change the fuel line connections and found the parts to connect the 3/8" supply to -6 and 1/4" return to -4 fittings. Here are the parts for the 3/8"


The tools are my choice but there are others. The 37-degree flaring tool is double the price of one that's available at Summit but I heard great feedback on this one. For me the key to success is the diamond cutoff wheel -- it's extremely thin and cuts stainless braid like butter. The five-blade set comes with a 1/8" spindle for a Dremel tool.


I've made up several sets of -6 hose sets and had no problems with pneumatic cutoff wheels and even reasonable success with fine-tooth hacksaw blades. When I tried those methods with -4 hose sets, I had zero success. The diamond cutoff wheel and a two-layer wrap of blue painters tape worked perfectly. If you have other tools (in the under $100 category) that work, I'd be interested to hear about them. If they can be used one-handed, I'm even more interested.

Here's the fuel pump end of the lines:
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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Nice work. Bob, I used a Big Sharp Chisel to cut my braided fuel line in order to make up my AN fittings. One or two whacks with the hammer and I got a good clean cut. I think I had $12 invested in the extra tools.
Go to my project LS7 thread and you will see my pics if your interested.
Oh yeah, the tape , hacksaw, dremel tool and even cursing did not work for me one bit.

Last edited by Rebelrob; Oct 19, 2010 at 10:40 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebelrob
Nice work. Bob, I used a Big Sharp Chisel to cut my braided fuel line in order to make up my AN fittings. One or two whacks with the hammer and I got a good clean cut. I think I had $12 invested in the extra tools.
Go to my project LS7 thread and you will see my pics if your interested.
Oh yeah, the tape , hacksaw, dremel tool and even cursing did not work for me one bit.
Actually your post is the one that got me thinking about making up braided line.

I think you have a great solution to the clean cut. I'll have to invest in a sharp chisel -- mine is pretty rounded off. I have some 1" copper tubing I can flatten into a cutting pad. Might have to take a walk along the Florida East Coast tracks....

I gave up on the hacksaw after 25 or so "practice" cuts. Actually I gave up on braided line for a few years after that experience. Cursing was about as effective as the saw but was very effective in making those tiny little puncture wounds heal quicker.

Only thing worse than the hacksaw was the Dremel tool with the cutoff wheels. They fell apart halfway through the second cut. Always exciting to have shrapnel at 10,000 rpm.

I used the diamond cutoff wheels on some hard ceramic floor tile (carbide barely scratched it). I figured if they are tough enough to cut carbide, they might be good for steel. Without offending any toolaholics, these are $5.99 at Harbor Freight, Item #:31501:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...scs-31501.html

After a dozen hose ends, I use a new disk. They work for a lot longer than that but the cut isn't quite as clean.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 12:20 AM
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Yep, I would like to add more braided lines under the hood besides the fuel line.
A good solid surface that does not move I think is the key to the chisel after you whack it. The driveway and a piece of railroad track steel worked for me. I also use those for a tire stop when I have it on jack stands.
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