New Weatherstrip
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 5
From: Richardson Tx.
New Weatherstrip
I have all new w/stripping installed (CRC) for about a month now. What I notice is that the window will bind at the rear vertical strip if the window is all the way down and then I try to raise it. Is this a common result of new w/stripping? Does the rear strip soften up over time so that it is more smooshed inward? I didn't reinstall the rivets to the piece of w/strip - just used adhesive.
thanks
thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,283
Likes: 4,374
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi G,
There's a pop rivet at the very bottom of the vertical weatherstrip that pulls the weatherstrip into the curve in the fiberglass jamb. Could that be your trouble? Maybe the weatherstrip is sticking out a bit. It's shown in the AIM.
Orginally it was installed from the interior side of the fiberglass.
Regards,
Alan
There's a pop rivet at the very bottom of the vertical weatherstrip that pulls the weatherstrip into the curve in the fiberglass jamb. Could that be your trouble? Maybe the weatherstrip is sticking out a bit. It's shown in the AIM.
Orginally it was installed from the interior side of the fiberglass.
Regards,
Alan
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I hate this type of problem since there really are so many things that can mess with the fitment of the weatherstrip. About a year ago, two of us spent nearly two days trying to get a 1979 passenger door to run up and down all the way without issues.
So, I've made a list of things below that will mess with the glass going all the way up and I hope this helps you.
The window re-adjustment is almost as important as the installation of the weatherstrips.
On the 1978-1982 cars if the rear door glass weatherstrip is not riveted down it will drag the glass and in most cases stop it.
On the pillar weatherstrip you must also make sure this adjustment is pretty much exact. Sometimes things like wear in the door hinge pins and/or a miss-aligned door latch striker can make or break the fit. The glass can appear to be adjusted properly and pass the 1" test, but if the door is down in the back then this changes everything as the glass travels.
Other things I would check is the upper door glass adjuster pads and the window felts. A loose or flopping glass will mess with you too.
Lastly, I'd check the condition of the door window regulator as well as the power window motor.
The door glass adjustment instructions can be found on our site and in all assembly manuals. The instructions found there seem to be about the best set I can find anywhere. As a rule of thumb, when the front edge of the door glass is 1" from the pillar it should also be 1" from the T-top weatherstrip.
Hope this helps.
Willcox
So, I've made a list of things below that will mess with the glass going all the way up and I hope this helps you.
The window re-adjustment is almost as important as the installation of the weatherstrips.
On the 1978-1982 cars if the rear door glass weatherstrip is not riveted down it will drag the glass and in most cases stop it.
On the pillar weatherstrip you must also make sure this adjustment is pretty much exact. Sometimes things like wear in the door hinge pins and/or a miss-aligned door latch striker can make or break the fit. The glass can appear to be adjusted properly and pass the 1" test, but if the door is down in the back then this changes everything as the glass travels.
Other things I would check is the upper door glass adjuster pads and the window felts. A loose or flopping glass will mess with you too.
Lastly, I'd check the condition of the door window regulator as well as the power window motor.
The door glass adjustment instructions can be found on our site and in all assembly manuals. The instructions found there seem to be about the best set I can find anywhere. As a rule of thumb, when the front edge of the door glass is 1" from the pillar it should also be 1" from the T-top weatherstrip.
Hope this helps.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Oct 24, 2010 at 12:20 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 12,239
Likes: 19
From: Chino CA
I hate this type of problem since there really are so many things that can mess with the fitment of the weatherstrip. About a year ago, two of us spent nearly two days trying to get a 1979 passenger door to run up and down all the way without issues.
So, I've made a list of things below that will mess with the glass going all the way up and I hope this helps you.
The window re-adjustment is almost as important as the installation of the weatherstrips.
On the 1978-1982 cars if the rear door glass weatherstrip is not riveted down it will drag the glass and in most cases stop it.
On the pillar weatherstrip you must also make sure this adjustment is pretty much exact. Sometimes things like wear in the door hinge pins and/or a miss-aligned door latch striker can make or break the fit. The glass can appear to be adjusted properly and pass the 1" test, but if the door is down in the back then this changes everything as the glass travels.
Other things I would check is the upper door glass adjuster pads and the window felts. A loose or flopping glass will mess with you too.
Lastly, I'd check the condition of the door window regulator as well as the power window motor.
The door glass adjustment instructions can be found on our site and in all assembly manuals. The instructions found there seem to be about the best set I can find anywhere. As a rule of thumb, when the front edge of the door glass is 1" from the pillar it should also be 1" from the T-top weatherstrip.
Hope this helps.
Willcox
So, I've made a list of things below that will mess with the glass going all the way up and I hope this helps you.
The window re-adjustment is almost as important as the installation of the weatherstrips.
On the 1978-1982 cars if the rear door glass weatherstrip is not riveted down it will drag the glass and in most cases stop it.
On the pillar weatherstrip you must also make sure this adjustment is pretty much exact. Sometimes things like wear in the door hinge pins and/or a miss-aligned door latch striker can make or break the fit. The glass can appear to be adjusted properly and pass the 1" test, but if the door is down in the back then this changes everything as the glass travels.
Other things I would check is the upper door glass adjuster pads and the window felts. A loose or flopping glass will mess with you too.
Lastly, I'd check the condition of the door window regulator as well as the power window motor.
The door glass adjustment instructions can be found on our site and in all assembly manuals. The instructions found there seem to be about the best set I can find anywhere. As a rule of thumb, when the front edge of the door glass is 1" from the pillar it should also be 1" from the T-top weatherstrip.
Hope this helps.
Willcox
I love that Willcox is "more than just a vendor" !
Actually reading and RESPONDING to posts. Way cool.
I am getting close to new weather stripping and am NOT looking forward to it....I read every post on the topic....EVERY one...
All I know is that some guy on an assembly line made it work....I can too.
