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1982 non start

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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 04:20 PM
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Default 1982 non start

I am trying to find out of the alarm o theft derent module is keeping my '82 Corvette form starting. It tries to start,but won't. If after many tries it starts will run for a litte while and stop. Mostly, it just rumbles once but won't keep on running. A friend said It may be the alarm,but I don't even know if it has one or where it is. Please advise. Thanks.
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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if it does start and run at all its not the alarm.have you checked to see if its getting fuel?have you checked to see if you are getting a good spark?
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by terry82
if it does start and run at all its not the alarm.have you checked to see if its getting fuel?have you checked to see if you are getting a good spark?
Yes it's getting plenty of fuel. I replaced the fuel pump due to surge in idle. When it tries to start and doesn't, it may shoot up a puff of gas from both tbi's. As far as spark, it's got a new coil,cap,rotor, plugs and wires, how can I check to see if good spark is going out?
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 10:14 AM
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get a extra spark plug .take the wire off any plug thats easy to get to .plug it into the extra plug ,turn the motor over and look at the plug to see if it is firing.you should pull a plug any way to see what they look like if the are black to much fuel ,wet not firing.
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by terry82
get a extra spark plug .take the wire off any plug thats easy to get to .plug it into the extra plug ,turn the motor over and look at the plug to see if it is firing.you should pull a plug any way to see what they look like if the are black to much fuel ,wet not firing.
Thanks, I'll try that and see what happens.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by supersl01
Thanks, I'll try that and see what happens.
Low oil pressure could cuase that. There is an oil pressure sensor on the rear driver side. Its bell shaped. If it senses low oil pressure or is malfunctioning it will cut the motor out.

We need more info. Did it run before you changed all that stuff?

Check the fuses for the TBI's. They are two 5 amp.

Jim
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
Low oil pressure could cuase that. There is an oil pressure sensor on the rear driver side. Its bell shaped. If it senses low oil pressure or is malfunctioning it will cut the motor out.

We need more info. Did it run before you changed all that stuff?

Check the fuses for the TBI's. They are two 5 amp.

Jim
yes, it was running, it just always had a very low idle and a small mis,I thought that it might just need a tune up. I'm off tomorrow, so I'll check the sensor and fuses and get back to ya. Thanks, Sal
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by supersl01
yes, it was running, it just always had a very low idle and a small mis,I thought that it might just need a tune up. I'm off tomorrow, so I'll check the sensor and fuses and get back to ya. Thanks, Sal
If it ran before and does not run now it sounds like you may have messed something up doing the tune up.

Double check the firing order of the plug wires. Make sure you have the ground wire and clip inserted in the coil. And don't for get the contact with the spring on the inside of the distributor.

Also the wires coming out of the distributor on the driver side must be hooked up right.

Jim
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
If it ran before and does not run now it sounds like you may have messed something up doing the tune up.

Double check the firing order of the plug wires. Make sure you have the ground wire and clip inserted in the coil. And don't for get the contact with the spring on the inside of the distributor.

Also the wires coming out of the distributor on the driver side must be hooked up right.

Jim
Well I did several thing to the car today. I checked the fuses and they were ok. Then I cleaned the connection on the oil temperature sensor. I took the distributor cap of and lifted the spring on the rotor so that it would make a better connection with the coil. I then cranked the engined and it fired right up. I don't know which of the items worked, but I glad it did. I just hope it starts again tomorrow after it sits overnight. That spring on the rotor might have done the trick. Thanks for all the tips. I'll let you know if it keeps on running. Sal
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by supersl01
Well I did several thing to the car today. I checked the fuses and they were ok. Then I cleaned the connection on the oil temperature sensor. I took the distributor cap of and lifted the spring on the rotor so that it would make a better connection with the coil. I then cranked the engined and it fired right up. I don't know which of the items worked, but I glad it did. I just hope it starts again tomorrow after it sits overnight. That spring on the rotor might have done the trick. Thanks for all the tips. I'll let you know if it keeps on running. Sal
Mysterious little buggers aren't they. Never straight forward. Cross your fingers. Hope it starts. Its all good after that???? or is it still surging or low idle or anything??. Anyway once you know it will run figuring out the rest is easier...if there is more.

Jim
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jdp6000
Mysterious little buggers aren't they. Never straight forward. Cross your fingers. Hope it starts. Its all good after that???? or is it still surging or low idle or anything??. Anyway once you know it will run figuring out the rest is easier...if there is more.

Jim
Well, I guess I spoke too soon. I just got home,went to see if it would start like it did yesterday and no it's back to the same thing. It's a mystery that it started on the first try after I put the rotor and cap back on and now it's back to the same thing. I started several times yesterday and it always started on the first crank. That's why I thought it was fixed. Oh well, back to the drawing board. Sal
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by supersl01
Well, I guess I spoke too soon. I just got home,went to see if it would start like it did yesterday and no it's back to the same thing. It's a mystery that it started on the first try after I put the rotor and cap back on and now it's back to the same thing. I started several times yesterday and it always started on the first crank. That's why I thought it was fixed. Oh well, back to the drawing board. Sal
Repeat what you did yesterday but only one thing at a time. Clean the oil pressure sensor connection and try starting it. if it doesn't do any thing move on to the cap. Try and isolate the problem. I assume when you pulled the cap you disconnected the wires to it all at once. Consider each thing you unplug and plug back in a separate piece of the puzzle. So unplug ONE plug then plug it back in and try starting....if it doesn't work move on to the next plug.

Sounds like an electrical connection or contact issue,

Before you try to figure it out. Try starting it. While its broke Look at your gauges. Make not of the oil pressure guage, the tach and the volts. After cleaning or disconnecting and reconnecting check the guages each time for a change.

If everything in the engine area does not help. Give the fuse panel a wiggle. I believe you said you checked the fuses. I have heard of a similar problem being caused by a loose connection or corrosion on the main connector behind the panel.

Did you change the ignition module? That part sits in the distributor....all those wires going in from the passengerside of the distributor lead to it. Slight chance this is the problem. You never mentioned what the car ran like before your tune up. Were you having problems like it not starting sometimes?

Jim

Last edited by jdp6000; Oct 28, 2010 at 11:31 PM.
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