When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes I still have the coffee can I fixed it last year so it doesn't leak. I make no where near 15 in of vacuum so these pumps would be on all the time. They are mainly a solution for power brakes. I just need something small and cheap to open and close my headlights.
I looked at one awhile back and it would shut off when it built the vacuum to a preset. If your engine could get the can up to say 6" then the vac pump could build the rest.
I would also think that if you could double the size of your coffee can your engine could do it on its own and over a period of time fill the larger volume can and then have enough to do the job providing the relay valves seal good and will contain the vacuum.
One good relay to operate both lights might help also and if you wanted to trim it a little further ,eliminate the headlight switch vac valve and use the manual pulldown to raise and lower the lights.
I make no where near 15 in of vacuum so these pumps would be on all the time. They are mainly a solution for power brakes.
I don't think you understand what I am trying to tell you. What I am trying to tell you is that if you were to use the Summit/CVR unit, only have it connected to your headlight vacuum circuit, not the engine, nothing else. A seperate stand-alone system. Using a vacuum reservoir and a one way check valve, the pump would pull 20in of vacuum in the reservoir, and the one-way check valve would hold it there until needed or depleted....kinda the reverse of a air compressor tank. Of course your headlight vacuum system would have to be in excellent condition to prevent draining the vacuum from the tank when not intended.
Originally Posted by Motorhead
I just need something small and cheap to open and close my headlights.
This is funny, coming from the guy who was talking about spending $1000 for electric headlights!
The cheapest solution (and I know you like cheap) would be to simply disconnect all the vacuum lines and operate the headlights by hand when you need to.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I did operate the headlights by hand for a year or so before I replaced all the lines.
I like the idea of the reverse air inflator I have one of those in each of my cars, saved my bacon more than once, allows you to get home or to a gas station.
Did any one ever see those electric headlights in action ? Someone posted a video of the killer lights setup, it is very slick but as everyone has said it is expensive. The CVR and Moroso pumps are pretty expensive too.
I guess I am going to check what my vacuum is and see if I have any leakage anywhere in the headlight system. I know I pull around 10in and the lights worked fine before the addition of the charcoal canister.
I blocked the vent off that is on the canister and the motor did not run good at all but the headlights worked. So I am just on the edge maybe I'll give it a good look over for any little leaks.
The cannister should be on a separate vacuum line from the supply to the lights/heater/brakes/etc. The supply to the lights should have a check valve in the system. I suspect that your check valve is bad/missing and that is why you have no vacuum to the lights.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by SteveG75
The cannister should be on a separate vacuum line from the supply to the lights/heater/brakes/etc. The supply to the lights should have a check valve in the system. I suspect that your check valve is bad/missing and that is why you have no vacuum to the lights.
No it's brand new, that's the silver one with 1 line in and two out, one going under the dash to the pull down switch and the other directly to the lights ?
No it's brand new, that's the silver one with 1 line in and two out, one going under the dash to the pull down switch and the other directly to the lights ?
Yes, thats the check valve. You can check if it is good by trying to blow from the single side; you should not be able to.
Back to your charcoal canister. I think the way you have it hooked up is maybe not right. The way you have it hooked up, you have effectively have created a full time vacuum leak. The cannister purge line should be connected to a ported vacuum source on the carburetor. There should be a large line going to the gas tank, a large line going to the carb (usually in line with the pcv), and a small line going to the ported vacuum fitting on the carb. The engine pulls vapors out of the cannister by pulling air through a filter in the bottom of the cannister, and then through the charcoal medium inside the cannister, but only during cruise conditions. This is why it's connected to a ported vacuum source. The ported line operates a valve in the top of the canaster that controls the big vacuum line to suck the vapors out.
I guess I am going to check what my vacuum is and see if I have any leakage anywhere in the headlight system. I know I pull around 10in and the lights worked fine before the addition of the charcoal canister.
10" is plenty , especially if your using the coffee can. Lets figure out where your vacuum is escaping , your system (post 72) should be pretty easy to troubleshoot.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by 7t2vette
Yes, thats the check valve. You can check if it is good by trying to blow from the single side; you should not be able to.
Back to your charcoal canister. I think the way you have it hooked up is maybe not right. The way you have it hooked up, you have effectively have created a full time vacuum leak. The cannister purge line should be connected to a ported vacuum source on the carburetor. There should be a large line going to the gas tank, a large line going to the carb (usually in line with the pcv), and a small line going to the ported vacuum fitting on the carb. The engine pulls vapors out of the cannister by pulling air through a filter in the bottom of the cannister, and then through the charcoal medium inside the cannister, but only during cruise conditions. This is why it's connected to a ported vacuum source. The ported line operates a valve in the top of the canaster that controls the big vacuum line to suck the vapors out.
Drag Race Demon doesn't have any vacuum ports
Here is the canister I am using. The bottom port is from the tank and the top smaller one I have connected to the PCV and the one on the left with the square fitting is not hooked up. The square fitting is loose and that is where the leak is. The square cap comes off and there is a round port under it. It sure seems to work like this as I said no more stink in my garage. Maybe it's not hooked up right ?
Last edited by MotorHead; Nov 5, 2010 at 06:34 PM.
I have the McSpeed Killer light setup. Have had it for four years now, works great. I got my actuators and module from GM Perf Parts Direct. (btw, GM Perf Parts Direct warantee is terrible)
All in all i have about $500 into it.
I did not do the wire door yet, was considering an actuator but i don't drive the vette in the rain, i can raise or lower by hand if needed.
But for $1,400 just for the wiper door actuator on that website is insane! Their profit margin must be unreal. And the damn casing covers half your valve cover.
Like mentioned before I like the mcspeed kit b/c if you should have electric issues with raising or lowering the lights you can still manually raise them...and replacement parts are only a NAPA/AutoZone or junkyard away.
What year is that cannister? The purge function should only be momentary when the engine starts. Some of the later model Corvettes used a remote control valve like this one from an '85. That may be the component that you are missing.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I don't know what year it is from. I wanted one that didn't have 20 ports like my '80 canister.
It probably is hooked up wrong I wonder where I can find out how it is supposed to be hooked up because, while it works and got rid of the smell there is a constant vacuum leak where the square piece partially blocks off the port behind it.
Would like to find a diagram. I am real happy about the smell being gone but it is probably hooked up wrong
Some of those tanks didn't use a forced purge vacuum line from the carb but instead used a a line going to the air cleaner with a piece of tubing cut at an angle that created a vacuum to vent or purge the tank.
I just changed the filter on my '75 tank this afternoon.
It has a opening on the bottom where the filter is and two line on top. One is to the fuel tank and the other is to the carb. It does not have that vent assembly. See if you can find an older Corvette tank.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Mine must be pre '75 then, I would just like to know how it's supposed to be hooked up. The way it is, that square cap sits on there not too tight and can be removed easily. It is like a constant vacuum leak and the motor doesn't run properly for some reason if I plug that port completely shut. Maybe I'll start another thread just to find out how that can is supposed to be connected
From my understanding the "square cap" pipe is the fresh air inlet for the canister. Older style canisters had the inlet on the bottom with a large round replaceable filter. Newer style canisters don not have this "bottom fresh air intake".
Your purge is hooked up incorrectly. You have it purging all the time. It should only purge off idle. The problem now is that without a ported vacuum line on the carb how do you get it to purge only when the throttle blades open? Both post #28 and #34 were correct.
Do not plug the square cap line on the canister as you will risk collapsing your fuel tank from vacuum.
I installed a vacuum pump for my brakes. When I was installing it I hooked it up to my headlights and they worked no problem, actually pretty quick. The only thing is the pump kept running, but it might have been a bad actuator that I just replaced. Or just hook up an on/off for the pump.