454 Cooling
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
454 Cooling
I have a 70 454 coupe 4sp survivor, runs hot 212+ on hot days 90+ live in NYC and traffic is always a problem. Has anyone ever installed a replacement radiator system. I've seen two advertised in catalogues - Corvette America Be Cool dual core aluminum module with fans and - Corvette Central Direct Fit radiator with fan kit.
Appreciate the help
Bill
Appreciate the help
Bill
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,557
Likes: 9
From: Oquirrh Mountains
St. Jude Donor '09
This is what I'm putting in my '72 LS5 that soon will be an LS540.
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=385
or this one if you are going to just use the factory fan setup:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=275
If you're handy, you can make your own fan from a Taurus 3.8L or Mk 8 ford. Here's one I did for a '66 Big Block:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ersion.html#10
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=385
or this one if you are going to just use the factory fan setup:
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=275
If you're handy, you can make your own fan from a Taurus 3.8L or Mk 8 ford. Here's one I did for a '66 Big Block:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ersion.html#10
Last edited by Ben Lurkin; Nov 8, 2010 at 10:11 PM. Reason: linky
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Response
Ben
Thanks for quick response, its a big help, I'll get the Dewitts 385.
Will the normal running temperature be less than 180 and should I change the thermostat, cooler is better in my situation.
Regards
Bill
Thanks for quick response, its a big help, I'll get the Dewitts 385.
Will the normal running temperature be less than 180 and should I change the thermostat, cooler is better in my situation.
Regards
Bill
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,557
Likes: 9
From: Oquirrh Mountains
St. Jude Donor '09
PS - your next upgrade should be a 94A 12SI alternator, or a CS series alternator. Don't use the 'upgraded' hi amp 10SI's.
OH - one more thing, Dewitt's usually has a Christmas sale for forum members starting around Thanksgiving. If you can wait; this may save you some $$$. I'm waiting for this sale for a new a/c condenser for mine.
Last edited by Ben Lurkin; Nov 8, 2010 at 11:17 PM.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 340
Likes: 4
Hi,i live in smithtown, you could call me on my office phone ,i have a 70 ls5 vert that i cooled down the right way without baloney fans, something is wrong if you need fans, the general didn't send them out for sale with 'em. you can call me at 631-651-2721.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
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From: Butler Pa
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 902
From: Warminster PA
1000%I spent a lot of time trying to make my original radiator work effectively. Just wasn't happening. Bought the Dewitts and never looked back.
Factory seals and a Dwitts and you'll have a car that runs where it should all day long.
Tom
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,000
Likes: 22
From: Boulder Creek California
Don't be obsessed with 180*. If it's not boiling (partially a function of the pressure of your rad cap too), you're not getting detonation, and it's stable (not climbing in traffic) you are fine. DeWitts are great; I've only ever heard good things and am a happy owner myself.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
I tried all types of electric fans and nothing worked as well as an aluminum Be Cool brand radiator, and my stock fan with the shroud sealed nice and tight to the radiator, now it runs at 180 all day long, and thats on a 585 hp 509ci big block.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
I'm not saying that these aluminum radiators aren't great, and high hp engines do need additional cooling, but how did GM get away with cooling 427's and 454's with the stock copper radiators? I see so many people here having problems cooling near stock engines, which is what the OP has.
Usually if you feel you need a becool or dewitts radiator, you're covering up some other problem. My '69 was originally a small block and now has a zz502. I'm still using the small block copper radiator (in '69 the SB rad is much smaller than the BB rad)and stock clutch fan and shroud. The car has never ran hotter than 190, and that was on a 95* day stuck in traffic.
Usually if you feel you need a becool or dewitts radiator, you're covering up some other problem. My '69 was originally a small block and now has a zz502. I'm still using the small block copper radiator (in '69 the SB rad is much smaller than the BB rad)and stock clutch fan and shroud. The car has never ran hotter than 190, and that was on a 95* day stuck in traffic.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From what I have heard, its pretty typical for a big block vette to run at or close to 220 on hot days with no problem, that's usually with the stock setup. I personally don't like that kinda temperature, but its pretty close to what many factory cars run at right out of the box. Just my thoughts, hope it helps.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 12
From: Kalispell MT
Another 
for the DeWitts.
I have a '70 vert and originally installed my Dewitts on the 454 and this year I replaced the motor with a 555, it works great!! I also installed the Stewart High Flow water pump which is an option. Spend the extra $25 and get a Robert Shaw thermostat whether you change the water pump or not, it is designed for high flow & you will love it. If you go with the electric fans, which I recommend, you can also then add a VBP shock spreader bar if you ever want to.
And the other posts about the seals are very important too so that you direct the airflow where it's supposed to go. The on top of the radiator that seals the hood is very critical. My fans typically only kick on if I'm stopped in traffic.
for the DeWitts. I have a '70 vert and originally installed my Dewitts on the 454 and this year I replaced the motor with a 555, it works great!! I also installed the Stewart High Flow water pump which is an option. Spend the extra $25 and get a Robert Shaw thermostat whether you change the water pump or not, it is designed for high flow & you will love it. If you go with the electric fans, which I recommend, you can also then add a VBP shock spreader bar if you ever want to.
And the other posts about the seals are very important too so that you direct the airflow where it's supposed to go. The on top of the radiator that seals the hood is very critical. My fans typically only kick on if I'm stopped in traffic.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 902
From: Warminster PA
I'm not saying that these aluminum radiators aren't great, and high hp engines do need additional cooling, but how did GM get away with cooling 427's and 454's with the stock copper radiators? I see so many people here having problems cooling near stock engines, which is what the OP has.
The GM engineers designed a cooling system to support the engine displacement / HP and it works well. The problem is that today, 30 years or so later, these original radiators are no longer effecient due to accumulation of crude in the cooling passages over the years. Don't mistake a cooling system that doesn't work well due to older, worn out components for a bad design on GM's part.
Tom
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Really appreciate the response, looks like consensus is
(priority is quality and reliability before cost)
Dewitts (if someone prefers Be Cool over Dewitts pls respond)
Stock Shroud Seals
New Water pump
R Shaw Thermostat
No Electric fan
Thanks again
Bill
PS, babypig I'll try to call you tomorrow, the car is stored in Centerreach
(priority is quality and reliability before cost)
Dewitts (if someone prefers Be Cool over Dewitts pls respond)
Stock Shroud Seals
New Water pump
R Shaw Thermostat
No Electric fan
Thanks again
Bill
PS, babypig I'll try to call you tomorrow, the car is stored in Centerreach
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 3
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
In the same vein (and I hope y'all don't think I am hijacking) I have a '70 BB 454 with the original radiator. Last year, during the rebuild I had the rad flushed and checked by a local shop. I still get slight overheating in traffic (245) and driving over 60 on the freeway. Runs at 210-220 most of the time during cruising. Never boils over but I developed a slight 'weep' at an upper corner of the core (same as Alan71 reported a while back).
Now I have a dilemma. I have to get the weeping fixed but want to keep the stock look, so a Dewitts is not an option. I also want to stop the variance I am getting. I'll be redoing the seals at the same time (my first attempt was not that successful since I cobbled together some DIY sealing that ain't that great). AND, if possible, I would like to keep the original rad.
My side tanks are in great shape. So, anyone know if it's worth recoring? Do shops still offer this service anymore? Am I just too old? Any idea on cost? Cheers all...
Now I have a dilemma. I have to get the weeping fixed but want to keep the stock look, so a Dewitts is not an option. I also want to stop the variance I am getting. I'll be redoing the seals at the same time (my first attempt was not that successful since I cobbled together some DIY sealing that ain't that great). AND, if possible, I would like to keep the original rad.
My side tanks are in great shape. So, anyone know if it's worth recoring? Do shops still offer this service anymore? Am I just too old? Any idea on cost? Cheers all...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 902
From: Warminster PA
In the same vein (and I hope y'all don't think I am hijacking) I have a '70 BB 454 with the original radiator. Last year, during the rebuild I had the rad flushed and checked by a local shop. I still get slight overheating in traffic (245) and driving over 60 on the freeway. Runs at 210-220 most of the time during cruising. Never boils over but I developed a slight 'weep' at an upper corner of the core (same as Alan71 reported a while back).
Now I have a dilemma. I have to get the weeping fixed but want to keep the stock look, so a Dewitts is not an option. I also want to stop the variance I am getting. I'll be redoing the seals at the same time (my first attempt was not that successful since I cobbled together some DIY sealing that ain't that great). AND, if possible, I would like to keep the original rad.
My side tanks are in great shape. So, anyone know if it's worth recoring? Do shops still offer this service anymore? Am I just too old? Any idea on cost? Cheers all...
Now I have a dilemma. I have to get the weeping fixed but want to keep the stock look, so a Dewitts is not an option. I also want to stop the variance I am getting. I'll be redoing the seals at the same time (my first attempt was not that successful since I cobbled together some DIY sealing that ain't that great). AND, if possible, I would like to keep the original rad.
My side tanks are in great shape. So, anyone know if it's worth recoring? Do shops still offer this service anymore? Am I just too old? Any idea on cost? Cheers all...
After installation I put the original radiator back in the Dewitts box and stored it away so that if, or when, I ever sell the car, the original radiator goes along with it.
Tom
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
Likes: 3
From: Bloomfield Hills MI
What you are describing is exactly what I experienced with mine. I had a leak, had it fixed, flushed, cleaned and it still ran hot. I did everything before going the Dewitts route, timing, thermostat, fan clutch, seals, carb jetting, you name it. Unless you are having the car judged, you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between the radiators.
After installation I put the original radiator back in the Dewitts box and stored it away so that if, or when, I ever sell the car, the original radiator goes along with it.
Tom
After installation I put the original radiator back in the Dewitts box and stored it away so that if, or when, I ever sell the car, the original radiator goes along with it.
Tom
