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When starting with no shims at all, I guess I would start with TA bushing in center of pivot bolt and shim equally on each side? Should I torque pivot bolt with spring and strut rods removed to assure free movement of TA? Any opinions or tips would be appreciated.
I shimed mine after the whole rear of the car was back together. Somewhere on here is a thread on how to align car. I shimed the rear wheels while setting camber as well. I ran strings down side of car front to back and the front of rear tire touches string and the rear of the tire had a specific distance. The shims should be piled in there tight at that point. It is critical that the front of the rear wheel points outward slightly as under load it will pull in. You do not want toe in on rear or You wont be able to steer car under hard acceleration.
Thanks for reply. I'll need to find that thread because I'm starting from scratch after frameoff and need to get wheels at least in the ballpark to drive the 25 mi. to the alignment shop. Yeah, I should have kept record of the shims that came out.....
It is critical that the front of the rear wheel points outward slightly as under load it will pull in. You do not want toe in on rear or You wont be able to steer car under hard acceleration.
NO, you want toe IN at the rear, not toe out.
Last edited by 69autoXr; Nov 11, 2010 at 12:44 PM.
Okay, so I need to shim so the front of rear tires are toed in, correct? Negative camber would be the top of the tire will be in further than the bottom as adjusted with strut rod,right? Toein for driveline torque, neg. camber for lateral load?
It is critical that the front of the rear wheel points outward slightly as under load it will pull in. You do not want toe in on rear or You wont be able to steer car under hard acceleration.
uhm
no
You want about 1/8" rear toe-in with the car at it's normal ride height. The wheels will want to go more toe-out as the trailing arm moves up (or simply outside of level).
Okay, so I need to shim so the front of rear tires are toed in, correct? Negative camber would be the top of the tire will be in further than the bottom as adjusted with strut rod,right? Toein for driveline torque, neg. camber for lateral load?
Sorry about the toe I was just trying to give an idea of the link from memory. There is another good thread from a guy on here who sets his own alignment in his garage. Just make sure You have the shims firmly in place.
I followed Duntov procedure and all is well. It will definitetly get me to the shop now. One more item checked off the list. Thanks to all. If we weren't in cyberspace I'd buy beers all around
I followed Duntov procedure and all is well. It will definitetly get me to the shop now. One more item checked off the list. Thanks to all. If we weren't in cyberspace I'd buy beers all around
Glad it worked out for ya.
Just one note though. I wouldn't bother taking it to a shop for an alignment unless it's one that specializes in Corvettes. Most techs and/or grease monkeys are going to go cross-eyed looking at the C3's rear. I have done my own alignments for years now using nothing but strings, an angle finder, straight edges, and a dial caliper. And everytime I've had it cross referenced with modern equipment, my alignments have been spot on.
Luckily there is an old alignment shop about 25 miles from me. The same guy has been doing business there forever and eager to do it. He said it's been a long time since a c2 or c3 had been there. He actually had rear TA shims. Thanks again
Just one note though. I wouldn't bother taking it to a shop for an alignment unless it's one that specializes in Corvettes. Most techs and/or grease monkeys are going to go cross-eyed looking at the C3's rear. I have done my own alignments for years now using nothing but strings, an angle finder, straight edges, and a dial caliper. And everytime I've had it cross referenced with modern equipment, my alignments have been spot on.
Any info on string alignments for the front? I just want to get it close enough for 1000 miles a year.
It's actually kinda easy, just take your time and make sure the car is level. I followed the Duntov procedure from the link above and worked well to get all four wheels really close.
It's actually kinda easy, just take your time and make sure the car is level. I followed the Duntov procedure from the link above and worked well to get all four wheels really close.
Yeah, it's the same basic logic. The front is actually much easier. Toe is adjusted via the tie rods. Adjust both sides evenly and shoot for 0 toe. Camber is adjusted with shims inserted between the frame and the top a-arm cross shaft. It depends a lot on how you drive, but 1/2° negative camber will get you down the road just fine.