trailing arms
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
trailing arms
i have one trailing arm off the other one is almost off .i ran out of blades .how do i get the shock mount off the trailing arm ?the bolts for the struts rods were mounted with the head towards the spring .they would not come out so i cut them off.can i put the new bolts in the other way ?my strut rod bushings next to the diff were almost not there .this car should handle a lot better when done.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 271
Likes: 17
From: Lancaster Ca
Trailing arm Service and Strut Rod
I'm actually in the throws of the same exact thing. I cannot believe GM put the strut rod bolt in with the head towards the spring. I'm debating if I should cut the bolt or remove the spring. To disconnect the lower bolt that connects the strut and shock, I used a 3x rivet gun ( I use to be an aircraft mechanic). It took a lot but it finally freed up! keep me posted
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 271
Likes: 17
From: Lancaster Ca
I bought brand new ones from Ecklers (no core- new assemblies). Ecklers had a 20% off sale so they cost $800/side. Ecklers gets these from Van Steel. They are bolt on units. You just remove the spindle (yoke) from the old one and put it back in. I didn't feel like waiting for a rebuild and the call backs of "you need this and that" so i went with new ones. I decided to drop the spring to get the strut rods out. The strut rods only need to come out if you are changing them. They are not required to come out for trailing arm replacement.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
Likes: 18
From: Boca Raton Florida
This isn't helpful for you but it might help others. The bracket that mounts the strut rods to the differential is held on by four bolts. You can drop the whole mess, clean it up and install your new bushings or strut rods. And yes, you can put the new bolts in the other way. When you do remove the strut rod bracket, note that the bolt holes only line up one way so you can't put the bracket in backwards.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 271
Likes: 17
From: Lancaster Ca
Hey Bob, I just came from under my car and I thought about taking the route that you mentioned. However, if you have an 81 Vette or newer that has the fiberglass spring, you don't have to take the whole spring off. As you loosen the three bolts that hold the spring in place, the spring begins to drop and it only needed a quarter of an inch to clear the bolt head. So I was able to get the bolt out without completely removing the spring. The best way to do it is to back out one bolt to 3/8". Backing one bolt out does nothing to the spring. Then as you back out the other two the spring drops. Check and see if you can get the bolt out. But I would advise to always back one out further than the others to give you a good indication as to how much thread is left in the assy. What a relief! Hope this helps!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
i bought my trailing arms from muskegon brake.up there in michigan.$389.00 per side with a new rotor.they also GAVE me a new half shaft yoke flange .they worked with me on the shipping and gave me a good price on the new strut adj rods.andrew worked with me verry well .call him for a price quote.1-800-442-0335
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Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 271
Likes: 17
From: Lancaster Ca
How do I get the bolt back in
Any words of wisdom, other than prayer, on how to put that forward bolt back in where the trailing arm mounts to the frame? I'm thinking about putting a "hit" on the engineer who design that space. There must be some secret to this installation! somebody please help!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
i used a needle nose pair of vise grips.it will go in .get it started in the hole ,then reset the vise grips so that you can use them to help push in the bolt.i used a floor jack to hold up the trailing arm.i did not put in the shims untill i had the bolt in place.put in shims then tighten bolt.this is is not the first time i wanted to kill a gm engineer.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
Likes: 18
From: Boca Raton Florida
Actually I found one tool to be extremely helpful. I also found that the bolt can be inserted first, when you can see the hole. Without trying to install any shims, slide the arm in as close to the outside as possible and then wiggle the bolt through the hole. I tried using a jack to hold up the trailing arm but I found it easier to move it around just balanced on a 4x4 (with other blocks of wood handy to adjust the position). Here's the tool I use to clamp the bolt and maneuver it into the hole and the balancing post setup.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 271
Likes: 17
From: Lancaster Ca
What a trooper! I tried the "fishing line method" with dental floss and it broke on me and I guess now is a good time to confess my vice; I have no patience. So I went to Walmart and bought 10lb test fishing line and it worked like a charm. R/H side is done and working on left. I painted my half shafts silver and decided to go all the way while I was back there restoring things so I order some Wilwood calipers. My strut rods were on their last leg. Glad I change those too!
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Rockledge Florida
I'm involved in the same nightmare you guys are in. Except I'm just starting. I'm to the T/A bolts that do not want to cooperate. How did yours come out? I have everything out but the T/A's. All my stuff pretty much just fell out as I loosened bolts. Shocks came right off as did the strut rods...all were shot. I'm now at the bolts and they are a different story, rusted to hell and not budging a bit. I guess it's time for the old sawsall. I was going to take a torch to them but there's a lot of rust in there and you know how rust and torches don't get along. I hit it a couple times with the sledge and it feels VERY solid. Didn't move at all. Does the bolt thread into the little square plate thats welded to the frame or does it just go thru it? It looks to be very tight right there and there is no gap around the bolt and the hole.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 271
Likes: 17
From: Lancaster Ca
Blessed
I got blessed with my Forward T/A Bolt. Nut came off with no problem. Tapping it out required a little finesse. I took a bolt that was a little smaller than the hole and about 4" long, bent it slightly and tapped it all the way out. This job is no fun but requires patience.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
i just went for the first ride since replacing the trailing arms.a big differance when you change lanes or corner.i also noticed that when you get on the gas or let off that it does not have movement .i dont know how far or how close the alinement is ,but it drove well.47 degrees out but the sun was shineing and i was driving the vette haveing fun.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 271
Likes: 17
From: Lancaster Ca
Awesome Terry! Can't wait to get mine on the road. I'm finishing up the trailing arm installs today but have to wait til Saturday for the new calipers. I should be rolling this weekend. I'm looking forward to the same improvements. My car had lost its positive feel on the road and when I camE off the gas, it would wiggle a little! Looking forward to just driving my car and not working on it all the time.