Difficult getting in gear
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
Difficult getting in gear
My '81 with a 4 speed Muncie and a Centerforce clutch is getting harder to get in gear. Didn't used to be that way til more recently. It shifts thru the gears OK when moving, but if it's left in neutral for any time, it takes a strong arm to get it in any gear and it grinds going into reverse. Tried adjusting the clutch both ways w/ less and more freeplay but seems to make no difference.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
Do you mean the ball stud in the bell housing? I didn't put this clutch in- recent purchase- po's "mechanic" did. Been some issue with a lot of pedal effort- eps. for a Centerforce clutch. Centerforce says the geometry wasn't checked when it was put together.
If the ballstud is backed out, will that put pressure on the disc even with say the linkage disconnected causing these symptoms?
It is missing the boot, so I can see the ball stud in there. Not sure what it should look like if it's backing out, and is there anything I can do without tearing the tranny out if that's the case? Thanks.
If the ballstud is backed out, will that put pressure on the disc even with say the linkage disconnected causing these symptoms?
It is missing the boot, so I can see the ball stud in there. Not sure what it should look like if it's backing out, and is there anything I can do without tearing the tranny out if that's the case? Thanks.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
No I'm talking about the stud in the side of the block that the clutch cross-shaft pivots on , just above the oil filter.
If the ball stud backs out and leans over the travel of the clutch linkage will be diminished and will cause grinding and hard shifting.
Your condition just sounds like your not completely disengaging the clutch.
If the ball stud backs out and leans over the travel of the clutch linkage will be diminished and will cause grinding and hard shifting.
Your condition just sounds like your not completely disengaging the clutch.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
No I'm talking about the stud in the side of the block that the clutch cross-shaft pivots on , just above the oil filter.
OOPs. I get it now.
If the ball stud backs out and leans over the travel of the clutch linkage will be diminished and will cause grinding and hard shifting.
I've had the cross-shaft out recently but didn't notice that the stud was loose- didn't really check that either.
Your condition just sounds like your not completely disengaging the clutch.
I agree- I'll check it next time I get it in the garage. Thanks.
OOPs. I get it now.
If the ball stud backs out and leans over the travel of the clutch linkage will be diminished and will cause grinding and hard shifting.
I've had the cross-shaft out recently but didn't notice that the stud was loose- didn't really check that either.
Your condition just sounds like your not completely disengaging the clutch.
I agree- I'll check it next time I get it in the garage. Thanks.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: McDonough GA
Two thoughts come to mind. One, the throwout bearing face is worn out;
and not moving the clutch fingers enough to disengage the clutch. Do you hear a different noise in neutral with the clutch depressed than when not depressed? Whatever the cause, everything heats up and expands just enough to not disengage to keep from grinding. When moving, it's easier to slip into gear than from a stop; you can upshift without pushing the clutch in at all if you're careful. Everybody here is right to a degree: something has changed the travel of the clutch fork or the movement of the pressure plate surface. Or just maybe the clutch slave cylinder needs rebuilding because it's not extending enough push at the fork. That's my bet.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,463
Likes: 1,485
From: Little Rock AR
Assuming the clutch adjustment is good and you do not have any lost motion in the pedal linkage, I would be replacing the pressure plate and probably the disk as well.
The clutch can become overheated from hard use or driving with a bad clutch adjustment (too tight = slippage and then HEAT). This will cook the pressure plate so much that it warps. Then the disk never fully releases and you get grinding into reverse (no synchro) and difficulty getting into forward gears as the forward synchros fight the dragging disk when you try to put it in gear.
Years ago I was fighting this exact problem. After THREE TIMES IN ONE DAY removing - checking - reinstalling the clutch, the speed shop took my clutch parts and bolted them all together on the bench. Once assembled on the bench you could easily see where the diaphram fingers were now warped and would cause problems that only showed up when it was fully assembled. Looking at the pressure plate sitting loose on the bench by itself, it would look 100% normal.
-Mark.
The clutch can become overheated from hard use or driving with a bad clutch adjustment (too tight = slippage and then HEAT). This will cook the pressure plate so much that it warps. Then the disk never fully releases and you get grinding into reverse (no synchro) and difficulty getting into forward gears as the forward synchros fight the dragging disk when you try to put it in gear.
Years ago I was fighting this exact problem. After THREE TIMES IN ONE DAY removing - checking - reinstalling the clutch, the speed shop took my clutch parts and bolted them all together on the bench. Once assembled on the bench you could easily see where the diaphram fingers were now warped and would cause problems that only showed up when it was fully assembled. Looking at the pressure plate sitting loose on the bench by itself, it would look 100% normal.
-Mark.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
Assuming the clutch adjustment is good and you do not have any lost motion in the pedal linkage, I would be replacing the pressure plate and probably the disk as well.
The clutch can become overheated from hard use or driving with a bad clutch adjustment (too tight = slippage and then HEAT). This will cook the pressure plate so much that it warps. Then the disk never fully releases and you get grinding into reverse (no synchro) and difficulty getting into forward gears as the forward synchros fight the dragging disk when you try to put it in gear.
-Mark.
The clutch can become overheated from hard use or driving with a bad clutch adjustment (too tight = slippage and then HEAT). This will cook the pressure plate so much that it warps. Then the disk never fully releases and you get grinding into reverse (no synchro) and difficulty getting into forward gears as the forward synchros fight the dragging disk when you try to put it in gear.
-Mark.
Thanks
