Here's the link to it http://evaporust.com/chassis.html

I think the poster said it took around 2 hours to do that. But it appears that he was only working on that one section. Would be pretty time consuming to do an entire frame but if you only needed a few areas done then it apparently would do it.

I'm going to pick some of this up and try for some other areas on the car.

 

Just an update - I was in Tractor Supply Co. today and they have Evapo-Rust on the shelf for $19.99 a gallon.

 

As far a the underside of my Vette in concerned I have never touched it. Except of course for some suspension parts. It has 30 years of grease and grime on it and I believe that helps it not to rust out and it still looks not too bad underneath.

I have seen perfect restorations look about the same as mine underneath after a few years of driving it

 

White vinigar has always worked fine for me !

 

I have three methods of rust removal.

oxalic acid
it's used as a wood bleach and comes in a dried powder form. 8 dollars is enough to make a gallon of solution. will leave a yellow coating to metal parts and will bleach non metals. add acid to water never water to acid. wear gloves but it won't eat your skin off but it will irritate it so wash off with cool water.

evapo rust
between 20 to 30 dollars a gallon. personal favorite is the 5gal dehydrated. non irritant and safe to drink if you are the village idiot. tastes like crap. safe for all materials. works very well but will coat parts with black residue if solution is old and dark.

reveres electrolysis.
currently testing this so look it up. Basically you remove rust with an electrical current and it gets deposited on to iron anodes (scrap metal) do not use table salt use laundry soda or Epson salt. Table salt will produce poisonous fumes typically not enough to kill you but just don't use table salt

personaly to save money I throw solid metal parts into the acid and then finish off in evapo rust. Seems to be the cheapest way. At least until I figure out the how well electrolysis works.

 

Somebody posted some pics of that process a while ago, I couldn't find them. Looked like it worked real good.

 

From what I've seen the electrolysis works, but it sure looks messy. I am also going to try the feed grade molasses in water for the bigger parts. Looks to be messy as well....

 

from everything I've read or heard molasses is slow and I'm not trying to be funny. If you do get good results post em. rust removal gets expensive so any cheap alternative is great.


yes in electrolysis the water or solution you use will get grimy fast, however it doesn't seem to affect how much rust gets removed. man does it remind me of some great monster movies.