Gutting interior / wiring question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Gutting interior / wiring question
So I've moved on to the interior portion of my 1972 coupe and have a few questions about gutting the interior and cleaning up some of the wiring.
First off, I've gotten the majority of the dash out, but I'm a bit wary on pulling the dash panel with the speedo and tach. Any tips?
Here's a photo from approximately 5 minutes ago:
I've been diligently trying to label EVERYTHING, but i'm at the point where the speedo panel is loose, but still tied in with all the harnessing and speedo cable.
Secondly, if I want to delete the seatbelt warning buzzer, is it as simple as pulling the clips below off the retractors and then tracing them back through the harness?
Since the car alarm is already defunct, I think I'd be able to delete pretty much the whole harness on the back firewall if it's as simple as I think.
First off, I've gotten the majority of the dash out, but I'm a bit wary on pulling the dash panel with the speedo and tach. Any tips?
Here's a photo from approximately 5 minutes ago:
I've been diligently trying to label EVERYTHING, but i'm at the point where the speedo panel is loose, but still tied in with all the harnessing and speedo cable.
Secondly, if I want to delete the seatbelt warning buzzer, is it as simple as pulling the clips below off the retractors and then tracing them back through the harness?
Since the car alarm is already defunct, I think I'd be able to delete pretty much the whole harness on the back firewall if it's as simple as I think.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,278
Likes: 4,372
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi S,
I believe to finish getting the driver's side dash out you'll need to reach behind the dash panel to disconnect the tach and speedo cables from the rear of the gauges. A spring clip holds them in place Then pull all the gauge, directional signal, brake, and high beam lights out of the 2 gauges, marking them as you've been doing. Then do the headlight switch vacuum and electrical connections.
If you've disconnected the vacuum lines below the steering column the dash-panel should lift out.
Good Luck!
Regards
Alan
Your next to the last picture is VERY interesting. The 211 is the 'job number'. Each car on the line was assigned a number 001 through 500. I'ver never seen one changed before!!!! looks like 210 to 211.
You can also see the a/c on the seat bulkhead.
I believe to finish getting the driver's side dash out you'll need to reach behind the dash panel to disconnect the tach and speedo cables from the rear of the gauges. A spring clip holds them in place Then pull all the gauge, directional signal, brake, and high beam lights out of the 2 gauges, marking them as you've been doing. Then do the headlight switch vacuum and electrical connections.
If you've disconnected the vacuum lines below the steering column the dash-panel should lift out.
Good Luck!
Regards
Alan
Your next to the last picture is VERY interesting. The 211 is the 'job number'. Each car on the line was assigned a number 001 through 500. I'ver never seen one changed before!!!! looks like 210 to 211.
You can also see the a/c on the seat bulkhead.
Last edited by Alan 71; Nov 24, 2010 at 04:17 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,023
Likes: 6
From: Austin Tx
Yes pulling the connectors from the harness will deactivate the seatbelt warning system. Or you could remove the buzzer from the harness, the light would come on, but no buzzer.
I would not remove anything from the rear harness, someone in the future might appreciate it being there.
Also, if you do decide you are going to strip those things out, your retractors appear to be in nice shape. If that's the case, and the seatbelt switches work correctly, you might be able to sell those for a nice chunk of change. Those retractors are 72/73 specific, and are about impossible to find with the seatbelt warning system connections.
I would not remove anything from the rear harness, someone in the future might appreciate it being there.
Also, if you do decide you are going to strip those things out, your retractors appear to be in nice shape. If that's the case, and the seatbelt switches work correctly, you might be able to sell those for a nice chunk of change. Those retractors are 72/73 specific, and are about impossible to find with the seatbelt warning system connections.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
Also, if you do decide you are going to strip those things out, your retractors appear to be in nice shape. If that's the case, and the seatbelt switches work correctly, you might be able to sell those for a nice chunk of change. Those retractors are 72/73 specific, and are about impossible to find with the seatbelt warning system connections.
What I really would like to do is at least put back in shoulder belts if not go to more of a harness style approach. For a harness I'd have to drop in a shark bar though, correct?
Is there any sort of "paint-on" heat / sound deadener I can paint the interior with prior to starting reassembly that you guys could recommend?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Definitely would not be opposed to pulling the retractors out and selling them on to someone who would be interested in them. Any idea what the going rate might be for the set?
What I really would like to do is at least put back in shoulder belts if not go to more of a harness style approach. For a harness I'd have to drop in a shark bar though, correct?
Is there any sort of "paint-on" heat / sound deadener I can paint the interior with prior to starting reassembly that you guys could recommend?
What I really would like to do is at least put back in shoulder belts if not go to more of a harness style approach. For a harness I'd have to drop in a shark bar though, correct?
Is there any sort of "paint-on" heat / sound deadener I can paint the interior with prior to starting reassembly that you guys could recommend?
The cables on the 72 clip on the speedo and tach. In 68 they screwed on. Drop the steering column better yet take it out to give yourself some room and then just remove the whole housing. Disconnect the wires and your home free.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
A good 3 point belt system is a F body seat belts. I had this before I went to a harness bar. I still have the F body one on the passenger side as my son did not like the harness.
The cables on the 72 clip on the speedo and tach. In 68 they screwed on. Drop the steering column better yet take it out to give yourself some room and then just remove the whole housing. Disconnect the wires and your home free.
The cables on the 72 clip on the speedo and tach. In 68 they screwed on. Drop the steering column better yet take it out to give yourself some room and then just remove the whole housing. Disconnect the wires and your home free.
Something like this?
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...587&cat=8&trk=
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I appreciate the quick response!
Something like this?
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...587&cat=8&trk=
Something like this?
http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/f...587&cat=8&trk=
Try this link. This was a quick search. Search for F body seat belt mod
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...s-in-69-a.html
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: Niceville Fl
No. The ones that work are from a late 90s or so Camaro or Firebird. They are from the backseat if I remember correctly and it has to do with the retracters. If the ones are used from the front seat they don't lock correctly. The inertia locking is not in the correct location. You can search the forum for this modification as lots here have done this. I paid 50 bucks for both of them from a junk yard.
Try this link. This was a quick search. Search for F body seat belt mod
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...s-in-69-a.html
Try this link. This was a quick search. Search for F body seat belt mod
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...s-in-69-a.html
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
The AC shorthand on the kick up reminded the assembly line folks the cowl had been cut and drilled for AC.
