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This is another head scratcher. The doors on both sides fit great and close perfectly. The passenger side body fit as it relates to the doors is perfect. The driver's side is something else altogether.
Most people don't notice it. I do each and every time I get in the car.
As I posted earlier. I have a lot of Winter plans for my lady.
From a corrosion perspective, that is one of the nice finds....in that there isn't any. The underside of the car is unbelievably well preserved.
The hinge bolts at the front of the door may be the problem.
Both of my doors had the big gap at the front and were low in back just like yours in the picture. We loosened the hinge bolts to the body just a little and my buddy lifted up on the door while I retightened the bolts. A previous owner had crashed the front end and evidently the body repairman didn't line things up before tightening the hinge bolts to the body. Hope this helps.
The issue is that both doors fit the back door jamb and shut great. That's why I wonder if it has to do with the body fit either to the frame or something else.
Do you see the fit of the door at the back to be off? Is that what you're saying?
If your doors open and close really nice i wouldn't worry to much about it.
maybe the fender was replaced at one point in time, i have seen many like that from your generation of corvette, the one my son looked at was pretty much the same when it came to the door gap on the drivers side.
Tight at the back but a bit of a gap at the fender.
Big question is--has the fender been changed? As said earlier best option might be to just enjoy the car and don't worry about it. If you are wanting to fix it the only option is to glass in the gap and cut it back out to fit as you want it to fit. That will mean body/paint work and if you have to have someone do it that can be expensive.
All factory cars had the samething in common--gaps and alignment were issues. You see a car that is perfect or very close to it-chances are good someone fixed it. Comes down to what you can live with---
this could be a can of worms to fix. check the aim for how the front end is supported. the frame has extensions that support the radiator support, which holds the inner fenders, which hold the outer fenders, surround and hood. after 35 years, any or all of these attachment points could(are) sagging.
you could loosen the frame extensions and jack them up slightly, but the fiberglass has stretched and bonding material has changed shape. it would take weeks(if ever) for the nose of the car to shift back into position, without breaking the bonds and reattaching the front end. or you could add glass to the fender to close the gap. or, you could just leave the lady as is, and just say"things get better with age".
Hi Kirt,
To my eye it looks like the rear gap is good, but the door is dropped a bit in the rear. The door/fender line doesn't match, and should.
The front gap is wide at the top, but o.k. at the bottom. Lifting the rear of the door so it lines up will close the front top gap a bit and may satisfy your eye.
It could be the hinge pin bushings are worn, the striker on the lock pillar needs to be raised, or the hinges need to be adjusted.
I don't think you can make it perfect without body work but I think the situation can be improved.
Regards,
Alan
Put new pins and bushings in...and you may or may not need to adjust the rear of the door upwards (the new pins might make the correction for you). Raising the rear upwards will take care of your alignment issue...you can see that the back has fallen some and this will close the top gap on the front of the door.
Put new pins and bushings in...and you may or may not need to adjust the rear of the door upwards (the new pins might make the correction for you). Raising the rear upwards will take care of your alignment issue...you can see that the back has fallen some and this will close the top gap on the front of the door.
After you put in the new pins and bushings, you'll need to adjust the lock striker at the rear of the door jamb so you don't damage the latch.
Alan alluded to this, I just want to clarify that if you do the pins you will want to make sure the latch is properly aligned. And lube the new pins.
It looks like a garden variety door sag.... Unless your kids were using your open door as a jungle gym.
i'm not trying to start a fight. but, with an even rear door gap as in the picture, how can this be a case of door sag caused by worn hinges? if the hinges are loose and a gap is apparent with the door slightly ajar, i would agree. also, if the rear gap was uneven with the door closed, i'd say the hinges and striker were worn. but with the door closed, the striker positions the door, regardless of the condition of the hinges. in the picture the gap looks good, hence my opinion about the nose sagging.
easy test. just try to lift the latch end of the door when it is just slightly open. see what the door and gaps do.
If your interior leaks water from the firewall area that is clue#1
a very common problem with vettes is the seperation of the firewall to the birdcage,
this in essence allows the front nose to droop down,
creating exactly what you see with door gaps, perfect in the back.
big gap in the front, and your not gonna like the cure.
if you have a gap between the firewall and the base of the windsheild frame,
the only real fix is to remove the complete front end.
and remove and/or rebond the firewall to the bird cage.
i'm not trying to start a fight. but, with an even rear door gap as in the picture, how can this be a case of door sag caused by worn hinges? if the hinges are loose and a gap is apparent with the door slightly ajar, i would agree. also, if the rear gap was uneven with the door closed, i'd say the hinges and striker were worn. but with the door closed, the striker positions the door, regardless of the condition of the hinges. in the picture the gap looks good, hence my opinion about the nose sagging.
easy test. just try to lift the latch end of the door when it is just slightly open. see what the door and gaps do.
Not to engage the fight (mainly because I have no way of knowing with certainty), but because the rear door gap is not vertical, it is possible to rotate the door and the difference in the gap not appear as large as it is in the front gap which is more vertical. You can even draw a vertical line through the front gap and intersent it twice. You can get a pair of scissors and a piece of paper and it will make more sense.
Look at the top rear of the door compared to it's position with the rear quarter. The door appears low. I think the test to figure this out is to look at the bottom gap. Pictures Kirt?
Yes Sir; Have the frame checked, it only cost 75 to 100 bucks, then you know what you have. & Kevin68 is right on if frame is straight, it looks like the door could be adjusted. & CrusinZ06 is right on about not worrying about it, if the door opens & shuts alright, Frame check, good body man, It can be fixed for a few Ben Franks. Nice Car I have a few items that bug me also on my, Always garaged car, never been wrecked 1982, but she never talks back either. Have a great one. Gene