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Painting a GM Crate Engine

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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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Default Painting a GM Crate Engine

I purchased a new GM crate engine. The engine came painted black. I wish to paint the engine Chevy orange. What do I need to do for preparation to spray paint this engine ? All suggestions are appreciated.

Dano,
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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what i did was sand it lightly with 800 grit i believe so the paint had something to grab to and just taped off everything else i didnt want painted then i was good to go. not sure what others have done, but that seemed to work for me and it was my first time as well. although, i went from chevy orange back to black haha just like the look of the black with all of the polished aluminum
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Old Dec 1, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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I wouldn't know how to act if the engine I desired to paint wasn't covered in grease. Because the engines I have painted have usually been quite greasey/oily I usually start with a wire wheel on a die-grinder or air powered drill. Obviously you're not faced with that situation so you probably just need to rough the surfaces with a scotch brite pad. Now, whenever you use any kind of friction pad such as a scotch brite you need to have the engine completely sealed (valve covers on etc.). Bad things can happen to an engine if you get that friction material inside it.

Beyond getting the metal surfaces roughed up a bit you gotta clean, clean, clean and clean some more to insure your paint just doesn't fish-eye. I typically like rubbing alcohol as my oil solvent as it's not too strong and not too weak. I must stress when you think you've got every nook and cranny on the engine completely clean then you should think about cleaning it all over again.

Here's a couple of my patients:



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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mudbone64





That is ORANGE for sure. Nice work. What did you use on the exhaust manifolds?
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 12:49 AM
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cleaning the engine before paint.. ah yes. i forgot i did that haha.. and the wire brush as well. haha i was half way there, but yeah when i cleaned i just used brake cleaner. be sure that its dry before paint and be sure there is no oil on it because it will fish eye
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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I just did a good wipe down on my zz4 with a degreaser. Then I taped up anything I did not want painted like the aluminum heads, intake and my engine stand. Then I shot it with Dupicolor Chevy Orange. Here are some pics.







Now just to give you an idea of what this engine went thru during Katrina here is a shot.


All the painting I did still looks good on the it once I cleaned off the dirt. I have the engine disassembled right now, but the valve covers, block and oil pan all look as good as when I painted them.
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by dboz
That is ORANGE for sure. Nice work. What did you use on the exhaust manifolds?
That orange was Duplicolor's Chevy orange and you're right, it's orange. As for the manifolds, I believe it was that VHT stuff. It lasts okay I suppose, it just doesn't last forever. I didn't own that particular car a long time after the engine was painted so I don't know exactly how long the manifold paint lasted. I did media-blast those manifolds before I painted them and I would guess that had something to do with how good they looked.

One more step in the engnine painting process that I think is very important and that is the use of engine primer. If you paint your engine with primer and then scuff it down with some soft steel wool before putting on the final color you could save yourself alot of headaches and avoid a big ole fish-eye. This is yet another one of those "life's lessons" that I learned the hard way.

Remember, clean, clean and clean your engine again before you paint.
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 09:13 AM
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The aluminum areas (not polished) left unpainted, like the intake, can be clear coated. It makes it a breeze to keep those areas clean in the future.
Dave
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Old Dec 2, 2010 | 10:49 PM
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Great tips everyone, thanks for taking the time. Wow, that certainly is Chevy Orange! Awesome detail.

I will do the wash down and I think I will use a scratch pad to rough up.

Does that original 'black paint' stick well? I can lay another paint job on it if roughed up but I do not want to invest in something that may be a peeler from the factory. Any experience out there with the black paint not sticking?

Dano,
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
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Originally Posted by Korevette
Great tips everyone, thanks for taking the time. Wow, that certainly is Chevy Orange! Awesome detail.

I will do the wash down and I think I will use a scratch pad to rough up.

Does that original 'black paint' stick well? I can lay another paint job on it if roughed up but I do not want to invest in something that may be a peeler from the factory. Any experience out there with the black paint not sticking?

Dano,
I'm not exactly sure which "black paint" you're referring to, but if you're talking about black paint that's on the air-cleaner and pulleys etc. then the answer is no. You shouldn't have any problem with the black paint peeling so long as you prime, sand and then clean. Primer is your friend. It will make the parts look nice and it will tell you if you have dirty/oily spots before you ever put the color on.
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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Thanks Mudbone64 and others for the tips. Good point in stating primer will assit with the finish.

The black I am refering to is the factory applied paint when the engine was assembled. I have yet to check to see if it is lacquer or enamel. I agree good prep before application is key.

Does that factory applied paint to the GM crate engine appear to adhere to the block, pan and cylinders? Any history of it not?

I wont paint overtop of the 'black' if it has a history of not sticking to the original cast.

Dano,
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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the block black paint is enamel & it don't tend to lift.
if new, suggest degreasing but skip roughing it up.
Instead of roughup, suggest misting it w/ lacquer thinner ... do Not go overboard w/ LT ... immediately shoot the orange enamel ... the LT mist will soften the OE black enamel a bit & the new orange enamel will bond to it tight as a tick.

+add ... frankly, I'd probably leave it black.
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Old Dec 3, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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I can't make any response concerning the factory black paint.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Korevette
Thanks Mudbone64 and others for the tips. Good point in stating primer will assit with the finish.

The black I am refering to is the factory applied paint when the engine was assembled. I have yet to check to see if it is lacquer or enamel. I agree good prep before application is key.

Does that factory applied paint to the GM crate engine appear to adhere to the block, pan and cylinders? Any history of it not?

I wont paint overtop of the 'black' if it has a history of not sticking to the original cast.

Dano,
The black factory paint holds well. If you look at the photos I posted you will see I just painted over it. I had no flaking or issues with the orange holding to the factory black. The factory black with chevy orange on top even help up to Katrina water. There were a lot of other paints that did not.
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