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Tach Needle jumping on high acceleration

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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 02:16 PM
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Default Tach Needle jumping on high acceleration

I have a 76 L48 four speed stock and just had new plugs and wires on it and they put a new rotor and cap on the distrib. Now when I accelerate the tach which seems about right in readings when I accelerate hard above 2500 rpm's goes immediately up higher and jumps around a bit. If I keep the rpms up it stabilizes and does not jump.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

lance
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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In playing with the dist did you/they move/reroute the tach cable? What your describing can be caused by the tach cable binding causing the needle to skip/bounce around. I'm assuming you have a mechanical tach and not an electronic one.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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I am not sure but that is something I'll check this week. Car's in garage hibernating as it left a dusting of snow here last night and it's too cold anyway. Next time hood is up I'll see if there is any binding and adjust if so. Thanks for a starting place.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 03:39 PM
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76 has an electric tach last time I looked at one. My guess is the grounding wire from the HEI mounting plate to the distributor housing is broken causing feedback through the tach circuit. You should check inot this as it can cause module failure too. To check you will have to remove disributor and disassemble (remove drive gear and pull shaft out of the housing) to get to the bottom side of the module mounting plate where this wire is located.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 06:16 PM
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I think you are right now that I remember the manuals that it is an electric tach but I haven't checked or opened the hood yet. when I do I won't remove the distributor but I will check all the tach wire connections as the only thing that happened was new rotor and cap, new plug wires and plugs and perhaps timing adj. It always worked a little this way..just seems more so. I have a sneaking suspicion the connection at the tach contact isn't seated full well or has some oil on them from dirty fingers from p.o. or something on it. I also have a spring kit to change or advance the centrifugal timing curve a notch to perhaps put in lighter weight springs by one spring and new weights so will deal with all of it then. Right now the car is hibernating in the garage at the house so I can do it at my leisure. Have a new radio to put in and remove the non functioning non oem radio first. Have plenty of time this winter it looks like. Thanks for all the inputs.
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by LancePearson
I think you are right now that I remember the manuals that it is an electric tach but I haven't checked or opened the hood yet. when I do I won't remove the distributor but I will check all the tach wire connections as the only thing that happened was new rotor and cap, new plug wires and plugs and perhaps timing adj. It always worked a little this way..just seems more so. I have a sneaking suspicion the connection at the tach contact isn't seated full well or has some oil on them from dirty fingers from p.o. or something on it. Have plenty of time this winter it looks like. Thanks for all the inputs.
Ninety percent of the time its the tach board but on a 76 its wise to check all connections before going down that road. In a 76, you're tearing the dash out to replace the tach board. By 78, GM engineers figured out how to make it easy by just removing the tach/speedo bezel. Wilcox has some very good instructions...you're looking for the 75-77 instructions. Your statement (highlighted above) may provide the clue that the board circuitry and and components continue to deteriorate. I'm including a link to an article about the later model C3 tach boards.

Tach Boards
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