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New tune-up procedure

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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 11:15 PM
  #1  
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Default New tune-up procedure

A while back I changed my points and condensor, distributor cap and rotor, and sparkplugs and the freaking car wouldn't start! I had to put all the old crap back (EVERYTHING) to get it to run ok. Turns out the points were either bad or badly adjusted and the situation was greatly complicated by 1 bad sparkplug wire.

So.... a few weeks ago I changed the plugs and the car ran ok afterwards.

Today I picked up a new set of points and changed just the points and the car started and ran ok. Set the dwell (I still need to set the timing, which is changed by changes in dwell right?)

Next I changed the rotor. Car started right up.

Then I changed the coil. Car started right up and ran fine. Went for a test drive but it was cloudy and threatened rain. I still need to take a more spirited test drive.

Isn't this retarded? I think it is ridiculous to change 1 part at a time and keep starting the car over and over, but if I can't trust these parts I really don't see an alternative. If you change 5 things and the car runs like crap it is a lot more trouble to go back and figure out where the problem is.

I don't change sparkplugs one at a time with starts in between.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 12:11 AM
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Change in dwell does change the timing. However, if you use a dwell meter and set the dwell to exactly the same setting that it had when the timing was set, then the timing will be exact as long as you didn't move the distributor.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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A lot of times points need to be adjusted before it will run. You can set the Dwell to 30 degrees with the car cranking over with the starter motor.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by calif phil
A lot of times points need to be adjusted before it will run. You can set the Dwell to 30 degrees with the car cranking over with the starter motor.
or you can set them using a feeler gauge before you put the cap back on ( and then set the dwell).
I find if an engine won't start ,tightening the dwell screw 1/2 turn at a time usually gets the engine to fire.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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Been a while since I've run point's, but been through everything you've described. New point's that were bad, new bad coil's, ext. Been going with HEI distributor's and MSD 6AL boxes lately, as large cam's seem to idle better with this set up. Main rant is needing to fork over for an additional tach adapter module. Think I'd at least get rid of the point's.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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C'mon Mark step out of the stone age and put in something electronic. Dump those points!
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 10:19 AM
  #7  
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changing one variable at a time is called "scientific research".
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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I never assume that the points gap is correct as-installed, despite what's written on the box. Same with plug gaps.
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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I think changing parts in stages like that is a good thing, at least for a weekend warrior like me. Sometimes I do things wrong when I am learning this stuff and I can immediately diagnose an problem that way or confirm that what I have just done was done properly.
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 06:12 PM
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E.F.I.

Nuff said.....LOL...I'm sorry...
I'm sooooooooo glad I went to the other side....(Yes...I saved all my OEM parts).....
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