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Just picked up a complete motor,trans ,computer and wiring harness to put in a friend's 75 corvette.
Not sure if we are going to use the motor.
will we be able to use the computer from this pickup truck (1992) to control the trans?
what would need to be done?
thanks,
david
If it's a gasoline engine, you should be able to use the computer on the engine and tranny together. The only OEM computer that'll run that tranny stand-alone would have come from a diesel truck. Controllers have come way down in price, there are some good units around $600 - $750 or so.
The 4L80E first showed up in '91, so probably anything after that, at least in that body style.
Jake Shoemake in the Dallas area builds a lot of 4L80E's, he'll be a great source of info. I don't remember the name of his shop, but he goes by the screen name "jakeshoe" on a couple of forums, you might get his contact info on one of those - try Team Chevelle first.
4L80e is huge, you going to have to cut the tunnel for it to fit, and alter the cross support, you not going to get that exhaust through those pipe loops back there....
I had to cut the tunnel to fit a 700 r4 under my stick shift '72....
Not only is it huge, it is heavy. There are two different harness connectors depending on whether it is an early or later transmission or an early transmission with the internal harness upgrade. Hughes makes a lot of internal upgrades. There are stand alone controllers that allow computer programing. Good luck.
Might be better to sell the tranny as a core and get a built 200-4R or 700-R4. No controller for either, much lighter.
I like the 4L80E for heavy rides with big, torquey engines, it's almost bulletproof in stock form.
Few guys on here replied on one of my threads who have installed 4L80E's on the early 70s with no problem at all, tight fit but it fits without cutting the tunnel. I had Chris at CK Performance build me one with manual valve body for high horsepower motor and I will be installing it in couple of weeks in my 69, he also sells electronic standalone kit for I believe $600.
Also heard that Jake at Jake's Performance Transmissions specializes in building 4L80E's.
Few guys on here replied on one of my threads who have installed 4L80E's on the early 70s with no problem at all, tight fit but it fits without cutting the tunnel. I had Chris at CK Performance build me one with manual valve body for high horsepower motor and I will be installing it in couple of weeks in my 69, he also sells electronic standalone kit for I believe $600.
Also heard that Jake at Jake's Performance Transmissions specializes in building 4L80E's.
Interesting, I had heard that before, but surely it's a change from a thm400 car or at least a 350, because when I did the 700 into my stock Muncie car, I had to widen the tranny tunnel on the pass side by about 1.5 inches or so....the band servo was on the glass very tight...VERY tight...
so obviously there is a difference in pans from stick to auto cars....
I swapped out my 4 speed to a 4l80e a few years back and its tight but it fit. I did have to cut a hole in the driver side hump down low for the electrical plug to fit, I just used it t bring the wiring into the car. I couldnt use the stock dipstick tube and ended up using a lokar cable dipstick.
I swapped out my 4 speed to a 4l80e a few years back and its tight but it fit. I did have to cut a hole in the driver side hump down low for the electrical plug to fit, I just used it t bring the wiring into the car. I couldnt use the stock dipstick tube and ended up using a lokar cable dipstick.
If THAT ain't the strangest damn thing, my car never been hit that anyone can tell, in 15 years the only part not taken down is the birdcage/frame, all the rest has been totally apart and back together....
wonder what's different about MY car....?? I had to cut the length of the foot well, next to the tunnel, stick a 2x4 between the glass and the servo, then tape up and reglass the tunnel from inside.... that was 13 years ago with the 700 install....with the switch to the 200 4r some 5? years ago, I noted the clearance was the same.....
only one other possibility, that they put a Muncie in your body molded for a automatic......
I would not let him build me an outhouse........he built me a TH350 that did nothing but leak fluid all over my garage floor.
In that case I'm sure glad I went with Chris at CK performance to build my 4L80E.
I'll keep you guys posted how it turns out and how it holds up to the power at the track .
It was for me, just have to get a conversion uj for the front of the prob as the trans yoke is a different size, and a bit of wiring for the lock up t/c. pretty simple really i did use one of bt overdrives crossmembers which had been badly made on the jig as it hit my floorpan, but called them up and they sent me one across the pond and it was fine no probs after that !!!!
I used a Powertrain Control Solutions controller for mine. Comes with a base tune and you use a laptop and go from there to suit your tastes. It has a really cool datalog feature so you can go drive it then playback all the info. I built a little L shaped bracket and fastened it to the stock auto shifter, has 2 micro switches on it that I use for manual mode. One turns it on and off and the other is spring loaded to the center and you bump one way or the other to upshift or downshift. Poor mans paddle shifter.
No, the 200R4 is pretty weak, but usually fine for low hp street use. The 400 and 4L80 are real brute's, and can be built to stand up to most anything. If the 400 you're replacing is a short shaft, then maybe get by running a 200R4 with only a yoke change. If going to a 700R4/4L60 or 4L80, probably need to get the drive shaft shortened.