I just finished rebuilding a replacement 327 for my 68 and was hoping to leave the manual transmission in the car and pulling the bad 350 out. Is there a reason you would not want to separate the transmission? Or if I can separate the tranny, do I leave the bell housing on ?

Thanks

 

Pull it all as a single unit.

 

You can leave the trany in with the bellhouseing on just support it with a jack or some blocks of wood.

 

i pull them like that all the time
just remove the 4 trans. bolts and yank it

use a floor jack under the trans. for installation

 

Do you mean leave the bell housing on the tranny or block? Another thing I just noticed is I can not get the hoist over the engine front of the car. I assume I will have to come at from the side and remove a wheel, is there a better side to come at it (Passenger or Driver)?

 

ditto

BH stays on motor ... 4 big bolts hold trans "ears" to BH.

If you have typical cherrypicker hoist ... it'll have to be sideways, don't think it matters drive or pass side. First, I put C3 on 6 jackstands.

suggest go ahead & pull old distributor out BEFORE you pull old motor ... & install new motor in BEFORE it gets a dist. Especially if you do this without a helper.

 

leave the bellhouseing on the tranny you'll be good to go

 

You need to pull the manual tranny back from the bellhousing in order to disengage the input shaft from the clutch/TOB. In order to do that, you need to take out the shifter, mounting bracket and driveshaft. All that is left to do is rotate the tranny 90 degrees and pull it out of the hole. Why not just pull the engine/tranny as a unit? Pull the engine from either side and use an engine leveler. You should really pull the radiator/shroud/core support as a package first.





With the new engine, you will need to mount the clutch and bellhousing. Are you buying a new clutch? Has the flyweel on the rebuilt engine been resurfaced? You really should check the center of the bellhousing on the rebuilt engine with a dial indicator. Offset pins are available if any adjustments are required. It is much easier to insert the tranny into the clutch/TOB and torque to the bellhousing when they are all out of the car.

 

[QUOTE=Faster Rat;1576264119]You need to pull the manual tranny back from the bellhousing in order to disengage the input shaft from the clutch/TOB. In order to do that, you need to take out the shifter, mounting bracket and driveshaft. All that is left to do is rotate the tranny 90 degrees and pull it out of the hole. Why not just pull the engine/tranny as a unit? Pull the engine from either side and use an engine leveler. You should really pull the radiator/shroud/core support as a package fir


With the new engine, you will need to mount the clutch and bellhousing. Are you buying a new clutch? Has the flyweel on the rebuilt engine been resurfaced? You really should check the center of the bellhousing on the rebuilt engine with a dial indicator. Offset pins are available if any adjustments are required. It is much easier to insert the tranny into the clutch/TOB and torque to the bellhousing when they are all out of the car.


New flywheel, pretty much everything is new from summit racing. Clutch on the current engine only has about 200 miles before the headgasket and rings went. Was thinking of reusing unless someone has reason I should not.

Sounds like either way I have to disconnect everything from tranny anyways so might as well pull it all.

Thanks for all the detailed pictures here. You mentioned and engine leveler...don't believe I have one of those. How would I use it and when?

I have a helper, but is clueless to what I am attempting to do, so should be interesting.

Thanks

 

[QUOTE=cruisin68;1576269271You mentioned and engine leveler...don't believe I have one of those. How would I use it and when?[/QUOTE]

You can see it in the picture. Turning the threaded rod changes the incline of the engine when coming out and going back in. Just makes the job easier and lessens the chance of damaging anything. Really helps when you only have an extra set of hands.

 

Got it.....Thanks...now back to work

 

Any ideas in what brand of engine levelers? I see a lot from $25-80... and have now heard some horror stories about the cheap ones breaking after a couple of uses and damaging the car with dropped engines.