E-Brake Not Engaging
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Dallas Texas
E-Brake Not Engaging
I have a 1982, and my e-brake isn't working. When I pull the handle, the car doesn't slow down at all, nor will it prevent it from rolling on even the slightest of hills.
I got under the car to check the adjustment nut where the two cables join. There was definitely some slack in the cables, so I tightened it down as far as it would go, and it's still not enough. Fully tightened, it feels like it's just barely starting to engage when I pull the handle all the way, and it will BARELY slow the car at very low speed.
The rear cable appears to be attached to everything correctly. I haven't taken the center console apart to see what that looks like, nor have I taken the rotors off to see if the inside of the e-brake assemblies is put together correctly. I'm not too familiar with how everything works in there, but I'll need to learn sooner or later.
Any thoughts on what the problem could be? Could it be as simple as the cables just being too stretched? Could something in the center console or in the drums be the issue?
I got under the car to check the adjustment nut where the two cables join. There was definitely some slack in the cables, so I tightened it down as far as it would go, and it's still not enough. Fully tightened, it feels like it's just barely starting to engage when I pull the handle all the way, and it will BARELY slow the car at very low speed.
The rear cable appears to be attached to everything correctly. I haven't taken the center console apart to see what that looks like, nor have I taken the rotors off to see if the inside of the e-brake assemblies is put together correctly. I'm not too familiar with how everything works in there, but I'll need to learn sooner or later.
Any thoughts on what the problem could be? Could it be as simple as the cables just being too stretched? Could something in the center console or in the drums be the issue?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Forked River NJ
If you move the handle up and down and the cable is moving it is not in the console. It sounds like something in the drum behind the rotor. Could be as simple as the adjusting star needs to be adjusted or something else may have let go. I would try adjusting the shoes first.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Boca Raton Florida
You are on the right track tightening the cable but you have to make another adjustment first. The e-brake is a drum brake inside the rear rotor hats. There is a star-wheel inside that adjusts the brake shoes and that's what you have to adjust first.
Start by loosening the cable back to where it was when you started.
Parking Brake Adjustment ('72 Service Manual):
Parking Brake Cable Adjustment
Picture might help. The two extra holes in the rotor hat and axle hub allow access to the star-wheel (you can barely see it in the picture -- I circled it).
Start by loosening the cable back to where it was when you started.
Parking Brake Adjustment ('72 Service Manual):
- Raise vehicle on a hoist.
- Remove rear wheels.
- Loosen brake cables at the equalizer until the parking brake levers move freely to the "off" position with slack in the cables.
- Turn the disc until the adjusting screw can be seen through the hole in the disc [the 6-o'clock position].
- Insert adjusting tool or screwdriver through the hole in the disk and tighten the adjusting screw by moving your hand away from the floor on both the left and right sides.
- Tighten until the disc will not move, then back six (6) to eight (8) notches.
Parking Brake Cable Adjustment
- Loosen the equalizer rear check nut and forward check nut.
- Place the brake handle in the applied position (13 notches).
- Tighten the check nuts until an 80 lb. pull is obtained while pulling into the 14th notch.
- Torque the check nuts to 70 in. lbs.
- Lower the vehicle to the floor.
Picture might help. The two extra holes in the rotor hat and axle hub allow access to the star-wheel (you can barely see it in the picture -- I circled it).
Last edited by Bob Heine; Dec 20, 2010 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Picture added
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Dallas Texas
Thanks to both of you for the replies.
I remember reading that online somewhere once. How does one determine what 80 lbs. of pull is? Do I need to find a force gauge to pull the handle with, or will ballparking this with my hand be good enough?
I remember reading that online somewhere once. How does one determine what 80 lbs. of pull is? Do I need to find a force gauge to pull the handle with, or will ballparking this with my hand be good enough?
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
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From: Boca Raton Florida
I would ballpark it. Give it a pull and if you can easily move the handle to the 15th detent or beyond, I'd set it back to 13 and tighten the cable a little more.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ
I have never put any type of pull test on the ebrake. I have just adjusted it so it works. GM has to put some value on the amount of pull but I will bet nobody has ever put a gauge on it to check the pull.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
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From: Orange Park Florida
I have a 1982, and my e-brake isn't working. When I pull the handle, the car doesn't slow down at all, nor will it prevent it from rolling on even the slightest of hills.
Situation normal, in order to pass some silly safety exam, you have to drive close to the station, drop under the car, tighten HELL outta the cable, then pass inspection....then go round the corner again, and loosen it up for actual driving....there is NO WAY IN HELL those brakes will work like a ~10" drum not that they ever worked all that good anyway...
Situation normal, in order to pass some silly safety exam, you have to drive close to the station, drop under the car, tighten HELL outta the cable, then pass inspection....then go round the corner again, and loosen it up for actual driving....there is NO WAY IN HELL those brakes will work like a ~10" drum not that they ever worked all that good anyway...
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Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 542
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From: Bloomfield Hills MI
I have a 1982, and my e-brake isn't working. When I pull the handle, the car doesn't slow down at all, nor will it prevent it from rolling on even the slightest of hills.
Situation normal, in order to pass some silly safety exam, you have to drive close to the station, drop under the car, tighten HELL outta the cable, then pass inspection....then go round the corner again, and loosen it up for actual driving....there is NO WAY IN HELL those brakes will work like a ~10" drum not that they ever worked all that good anyway...
Situation normal, in order to pass some silly safety exam, you have to drive close to the station, drop under the car, tighten HELL outta the cable, then pass inspection....then go round the corner again, and loosen it up for actual driving....there is NO WAY IN HELL those brakes will work like a ~10" drum not that they ever worked all that good anyway...
definitely a problem we all experience at some point. Gm really created a POS with that brake but hey, if you want disc at the back end....?
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,570
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From: Algonac Michigan
I find that the system seems to be a good design. Only real difference between conventional G.M drum brakes and Corvette E-Brake is that it is cable operated and on a smaller scale.
I will however agree that they can be difficult to work on. (no access to the retaining pins)
As to the O.P's problem...I would say that an adjustment at each wheel is in order. Don't be suprised if the starwheels are frozen though.
I will however agree that they can be difficult to work on. (no access to the retaining pins)
As to the O.P's problem...I would say that an adjustment at each wheel is in order. Don't be suprised if the starwheels are frozen though.
Last edited by sly vette; Dec 21, 2010 at 01:53 AM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Tuttle OK
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