Worked on both sides for me.

 

I'd get a couple Qts of the por 15 and some UV protection so it stays good and black for some time.
Next time your're tearing down the front end, pick up a pickle fork for a few dollars. It will make the ball joints much easier. They work on your tie rod ends, drag link, well all the pressure fit joints.
The heat wrench (torch) will help. Keep some water around to put out the rubber bushings. Heat the bolt if you can't get to the sleeve that it has attached itself to with rust. As it cools PB Blaster it. The sleeve and the bolt should cool at different rates and with a few trys the Blaster normally will begin to work it's way between the two metals. Then drive it out with air chisel if that hammer is getting old.

 

I forgot a tip on the por 15. If you have any metal roofing self tapping screws that have the rubber seal on them, I use them by drilling one into the can itself.
I pour out the paint through the hole, when I replace the screw the paint itself will seal the rubber gasket to the can. Everytime you replace the screw it reseals itself to the can. I've had open cans last over six years. I use it up faster than it can harden.

 

Good idea! You can only take the top off a POR15 can so many times!! The thing secures itself to the can and you tear the lid and can getting them open.

 

Thanks for the TIP I'll pick up a few roofing screws before I go to paint.. I cut off the old and welded on the body mount brackets on the L/R #4 and the R #1... I had a bolt still stuck in the Left #2 that I had to cut the head off of to lift the body; I welded another bolt on top of that to give me a handle and worked the bold about 3/4 of the way out and then the nut started to spin... I cut off the nut cage and took the nut around today to TSC, 3 auto places, and Fastnal (industrial/construction fastners and supplies) to find a replacement... no luck, so I just orded it from ZIP-Corvette...

I also picked up a chimney brush, garden sprayer, 4' of 3/8" hose to extend the sprayer tip, and a gal of rust converter to hit the inside of the frame.

Today I'm going to start sandblasting today and go from there..let's see how well the 60gal compressor can keep up... I have a feeling I will have to take a break every 10 min or so..

Side note: I was considering putting in a 5 speed xmission so I requested a quote from Kesler.. $3,385... I was expecting it to cost but not that much... ($2800 maybe)... So now when I have free time I'm going to be looking into other options.. junkyard finds from camaro's or trans-ams.... I just need to find what will fit and what I have to do...

 

Heck, you're in Eaton Ohio. Stop by and I'll give you a hand full of screws. I'm just down 127 a bit. The other side of Heuston Woods. I live off 732.

 

IndianCreek thanks for the offer, but my brother already brought some over that he had left from a small horse barn build. I'm stationed here and attached to the ROTC unit over at Miami University in Oxford! I'm taking classes and working on a commission while I'm there. A friend of mine is considering starting a fund raising car show for the ROTC unit starting next fall, if it becomes a go I'll let you know if your interested! I better be done by then lol

UPDATE:
Well I finally got the PS TA off (heat, punch, pliers, heat, punch, shake rattle and roll...finally came off). I welded on the mounts and had to cut off the left #2 because it rounded off while I tried to get it out..(on order from ZIP) and started sandblasting... I'm about 2/3 of the way done with what I can see from the top... then I have to either flip it or get on my back and be further bombarded with grit




After receiving the quote for the perfect fit TKO 5spd, I'm going to investigate a T56 swap...

 

If I can help let me know, If you are at Miami I'm just out the other side off 732. I do powder coating on medium to small parts. Well, I have an automotive machine shop here. Large blasting cabinet and about evry tool known to man. Plasma cutter if you need one.

 

I had an Army Ranger here yesterday. He was home till the first. Leaves for Afgan. I have a shooting range here and he was brushing up on some carbine.

 

Very nice, I have a few toys I play with at my grandpa's farm..



Plasma cutter hum... I may consider that as I toy with my Idea of installing a T56 and will need to cut out the cross member to make it removable...

 

Good looking stuff. I have some similar. I'm a factory armorer for HK, Sig and Glock. I build carbines for folks around here. I have several going now. I'm doing a three gun set for myself now. A 16.5 a 14.5 and an 11" SBR all identical. I'm using Noveske Upper and lowers with the Noveske barrels. Troy forend and iron sights. Magpul stock with Bravo Co. bolt carrier and bolt. Eotech on the short barrels and acog on the long one.

 

Update:

The frame has been cleaned inside and out and preped dryed and gone through the POR process w/ marine clean and metal ready... well I got the first coat of POR-15 on almost all of it.. just need to flip it and hit the top (was bottom as its upside down) .. The POR-15 did go a long way the Quart is definatly enough to do the entire frame and suspension..

I'm debating to do a second coat of POR-15 or just put on the Top coat chassis black...

 

Well two weeks came and went rather fast...today was my first day back at work and I miss working all day on the vette! I have the front suspension parts cleaned up and bushings out... I'm going to paint a few peices here and there each night until I get them all back together. I just ordered my TAs from VanSteel, I got a 10% forum discount and 5% military discount, they were VERY helpful over the phone! Despite this threads name, "two weeks vacation," I have decided to continue to update it with my progress just to keep everything in one location... plus the first part will go to show what you can accomplish in just 2 weeks... mixed up w/ home maintance projects and the holidays!

Thanks for all of the help and advice offered so far, I look forward to posting a picture of the entire front suspension assymbled soon, and not long after that have a rolling chassis

Next set of decisions:
1) I have decied to get the Keisler RS 5speed perfect fit kit (Great Deal!!!)

2) I will conduct a leak down compression test to test the bottom end as I hope to just build the top end. I do not know the cars history, I litterly bought it off of a duggie who probly just sold it for his habit, so I'm not sure if it has been gone through in the past. It has 110,000 on it but it ran strong, idle was a perfect purr, no hesitation at all when I stomped the gas, and it never smoked (not even on a cold start!) This being said I assume it has been gone through, and I should find out when I take the top end off and can see the pistons... until then I will conduct the test to determine if I need to contact a machine shop or not.

I want to run 180cc AFR street heads and an edelbrock endurashine intake(not sure which one yet...75 L48...what will fit) Keeping the stock Q-jet(retuned and recurve the dist)

My only issue now is figuring what intake will fit and choosing a cam as I know what a cam does but have know Idea how they differ... The car will be driven for pleasure(0-60, make some noise, crusie, occasional burn out... and not really drag..simply make a few rustangs cry between stop lights...

 

Bring your heads down, we'll magnaflux them, check the guides and if thats all, replace the seals and maybe the springs. That may speed up your rebuild a bit.
If you want to add a three angle valve job, and you'll do the labor, I'll set up the equipment for you and you can do them yourself.
Let me know if you're interested.

 

IndianCreek: sorry for the delayed responce, I've been busy back at school and with my unit. Thanks for the offer... as it stands now I am still going to replace my heads with the AFR's and oil and vacume bag the originals. If I change my mind, and your still up for it I'll get a hold of you

UPDATE:
I have wheels back on... the front suspension is set up, new rotors, calipers and pads.. I still need to clean up and install the steering system.. on the rear I installed the VanSteel exchange trailing arms and hooked up my brakes as well.. I just need to take care of the differential so that I can mount the rear spring and connect the tie rods...







I have everything pushed back to the side so my wife can park in garage again ... she is happy, but it was nice to have full domain over the garage!

Question:

On the Differential the side yokes do NOT have any play in rotation, but do pull out slightly (appox 3/16-1/4") is this an issue and what could need replaced to correct this.

I previously ordered this diff rebuild kit from Ecklers prior to checking this out, just to freshen it up... then after viewing a forum thread on how to rebuild it I feel it is more complicated than I imagined... I have began the rethink taking on this project...I though I would just clean/paint the exterior and flush and fill the inside if this side play isn't an issue... Ideas...thoughts...opinions... I'm all ears

P.S.
Just took advantage of the DeWitts Group purchase and got a new radiator w/dual electric fans!!! If you're interested go to the General forum and seach DeWits and it will pop up... the 10% offer expires on January 20th!!!!

 

Let me know. Depending on the cast heads you have, they can be helped with regard to their flow and valve size.

 

As I dive into the diff... and dream about tearing into the engine... if I did fore go the AFR heads to save some $$$... how much HP/TQ (crank/or WHP) do you think I could expect from doing this plus new cam/lifters & roller rockers? Also w/ this done how much could I benift from an edelbrock performer airgap intake (think it will fit under med rise stock hood w/ dropbase air cleaner)?

I drool over the 450hp 438TQ the compcam camquest DesktopDyno told me for my AFR dream set up... while I don't expect this by modifying the stock heads, could I expect 350hp and near 380 TQ at the crank?.... I'd be very happy with that... and my wife would be happy w/ the savings... she gave me while your at it permission lol so I prettty much have free range w/ this project but she does shudder slightly w/ each big purchase...

Thanks for the advise, input and help!!

 

If you take your time and work the the heads you can get pretty good flow. Not to say you can match the after market, but respectable for factory cast heads.
Personally I like torque more than Horsepower. You get to feel the power you have created every stop light. I don't spend much time in the 5500 to 7800 rpm range so I don't cam or head my personal engines to an area I don't plan on visiting often.
It would save you some cash. You can always change them for the price of a gasket set.
I'd make sure you build the bottom end as strong as I could. The top end can be changed or altered with the engine in the car at any point in time.
What are your plans for the bottom end? It's a good feeling knowing the bottom end is solid.

 

Sorry, It has been a while since I have had a chance to get back to my project... life happens...you know how thta goes...

IndianCreek: I appreciate your generous offer to impart some knowledge and skils upon me.. I know its been a while, but if your still willing I will be working over some heads when I dig into the engine. I'm using freebe LB9 TPI heads from an 86 Iroc Z28 camaro w/ 58cc combustion chambers..I'll send you a PM when I pull them from the donor car

Well I have been able to make small bits of progress here and there..

Since last I have completed the steering system rehab


Had the Differential rebuilt and I cleaned it up, painted


mounted it and the Mono leaf.. The spring isn't hooked up to the spring bolts yet.. I need a bigger rachet strap


I installed the Ujoints on the Halfshafts (no pic) and they are ready to go on once I get the spring all hooked up.

I have worked on the under body a little..I had to lift the body( 2ton hoist) and placed it on cinder blocks so I have better access
-Rocker channels are cleaned up, zinc primered and inserts are welded in place (no pic)
- I removed the #4 mount reinforcments (crumbled off) cleaned of the fiberglass, spray painted it w/ gray fitted up the driver side reinforment (yet to secure) I'm also going to use some sort of sealer to fill in b/w the metal and glass to keep grim out



I have also sold my seats, bought Fiero seats, sold my 4 spd to a CF member and I'm awaiting my Keisler RS400 5 speed( july-early aug)

Here is how she sits now... crowded.. with parts, new carpet for the house (to the right) and boxes of baby stuff (we have our first on the way)


And to think... I thought I would be done by now...

If I only had another two weeks vacation.....

August is the new Goal! Lets see if I can finish by then... only 3 months off of my first estimate..and that would be only 8-9 months total

 

Congrats.

Do whatever you can to finish the car before the little one arrives. You would be surprised how an afternoon in the garage becomes next to impossible to find once they arrive.

I saw the thread title and thought how nice it would be to have two uninterrupted weeks to work on my '81.

Good luck.