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if you rebuilt everything else because of age or miles on them then yes change the springs .you dont need a spring compressor to put them in but you do need to put some safety chains on to take out the old ones.you dont have to but it is saver.any of the car catalog companies can get you springs for 80 -90 bucks.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Just had this done on my 80 model. I brought the car to a front end shop to have it done b/c I was chicken little with the coil springs in a compressed mode. They need to be compressed to remove, and to be re installed. I made sure the shop had insurance b4 they did the job. Cost me $420 with a front end alignment check. Good luck if you do your own, just be careful.
Forgot to add: I was able to get a set of NOS from a forum member here. The new coils added about 1 inch in height to the front fenders. Looks like a brand new car in its stance.
Last edited by mikejpss; Dec 21, 2010 at 10:43 AM.
Reason: added info
Just had this done on my 80 model. I brought the car to a front end shop to have it done b/c I was chicken little with the coil springs in a compressed mode. They need to be compressed to remove, and to be re installed. I made sure the shop had insurance b4 they did the job. Cost me $420 with a front end alignment check. Good luck if you do your own, just be careful.
Forgot to add: I was able to get a set of NOS from a forum member here. The new coils added about 1 inch in height to the front fenders. Looks like a brand new car in its stance.
I have done this before myself, and mine did NOT need to be compressed on removal or installation. i simply used a second floor jack under the A-arm and let it down slowly. then it just easily fell out
if you want better handling and get your car a little lower to the ground go the 550# springs from VBP
Last edited by pauldana; Dec 21, 2010 at 03:41 PM.
I used MOOG springs which were a little shorter, but provided the same stock ride height. I was worried that they would raise the front of the car but they didnt. Just make sure you buy the correct springs ie: small block/big block, AC/ No AC, etc.
I did need a spring compressor for removing and installing, but this was only because the engine and trans were out of the car when I did it. If the engine and trans are in the car the weight should keep the front end from lifting until you are able to re attach the ball joints.
Thanks for the replies. The car is completely stripped ,body off and no motor. So I think I'm going to need a spring compressor. I need to order some new shocks going with the Billstens everyone in here has lots of good things to say about them.May keep the stock springs want to make sure the car sits the way it did before I tore it apart.I dod think there was anything wrong with them.
Springs do wear out and are probably shorter than when the car was new. They do sag over time. Get new springs and if they have to be trimmed a little trim them. I have found the 420 pound springs for a little performance gain a nice spring to use. The 550s get stiff. I have had to trim both of them and on some cars no trimming is needed. It depends on the front end weight of the car. Never used a spring compressor.
Might want to check out vbp before end of the year I just ordered the grand touring package. Comes with new springs, bilstien shocks, rear mono-spring, fornt and rear sways, check-em out before end of year!
I know I'm splitting hairs here, but if you really have "completely rebuilt front end of my 78", then you shouldn't have to replace springs, as they have already been replaced.
I replaced my OEM springs on my 78 about 3 years ago and had a spring compressor but did not need it. I removed the front shocks, separated the lower ball joint and outer tie rod, and with a floor jack under the lower control arm, just slowly lowered the lower control arm with the jack until the spring fell out. Reverse to install-it was fairly easy. I used Mid America 550 springs that were 1 inch shorter than stock. I use Bilstein Heavy Duties in the front with the 550 springs and Bilstein Sports (30% stiffer) in the rear with my 360 composite spring. It rides great. I strongly recommend the bilstein shocks (or a another very top quality one) with the 550 springs otherwise it will ride very stiff and also with the 360 composite, otherwise it will be very bouncy in the rear. You need a top shock to maximize the springs. Cheap shocks will make the car ride hard in the front and hard with a steel spring in the back or boucny with a composite rear spring. Believe me I know after 27 years of tinkering with the suspension!Hope that helps.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Dec 22, 2010 at 07:33 AM.
I know the auto parts places here have rental/buy and return tools, like coil spring compressor, ball joint tools etc. Very handy and safer. I have removed spring before with second floor jack and lower the control arm down nice and slow. Getting the new ones in sometimes takes a little work. Pry bar and extra foot to push down control arm helps out. Make sure you get the spring seated in the proper orientation as well. Couple of the trucks I have done, have a stop up in the bucket that you need to rotate the spring around so you know both are clocked in the same position. Learned this the hard way. One side was 1in higher than the other, until I rotated the spring. PITA because you pretty much have to do everything you had to do to remove the spring. I could not rotate the spring w/out taking all the tension off.
I know I'm splitting hairs here, but if you really have "completely rebuilt front end of my 78", then you shouldn't have to replace springs, as they have already been replaced.
Scott
Hey, sorry about this comment, I was in kind of a persnickety mood last night. For my 2 cents worth, I think you should install new front springs. Ya know what? Replace the rear spring with a new fiberglass one while you are at it, new springs all around!! The fiberglass rear springs are quite a bit lighter than the older style steel springs, (something like 30 lbs. lighter, I think) And there is something about the "rate" of the spring that I don't quite know how to describe......it handles like a stiff spring, but rides like a soft spring? Maybe someone a little smarter than me can describe it a little better. I'll bet those of you who have done the swap know exactly what I'm talking about here.
Steel 9 leaf spring is about 50lbs, 48 lbs for the sport 7 leaf steel spring-composite regardless of ratings about 8-10lbs. Savings about 40 lbs which is a ton! I would ditch the steel spring in a heart beat. I have a had the same 360 composite since 1986!
Last edited by jb78L-82; Dec 22, 2010 at 04:49 PM.
New Coil springs VS front monospring?
$80 vs $700
same ground clearance VS 1 inch less ground clearance?
Just to clear up any confusion, I am talking about replacing the rear leaf spring in addition to the front coil springs. Might as well have new springs all around, right?