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Block for 383 build

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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 69Zlover
We can kinda put this puppy to rest, kinda really thinking it is better than normal stuff. Ok I'm done for now

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...CATID=660.html

3932482 Nodular Iron Four-Bolt Cap
This nodular iron cap (casting number 2482) is stronger than the grey iron caps installed on most production small-blocks with 2.45" main bearings. It can be retrofitted on blocks originally produced with two-bolt mains, or used to upgrade a four-bolt block for racing. These caps are used on cylinder case 10185047.
Technical Notes: This is a semi-finished cap with four parallel bolt holes; the ends of the cap must be machined to register it in the block. The block must be align bored after installing replacement caps.

Last I knew those caps are not available any more!!
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:52 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 69Zlover
We can kinda put this puppy to rest, kinda really thinking it is better than normal stuff. Ok I'm done for now

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...CATID=660.html

3932482 Nodular Iron Four-Bolt Cap
This nodular iron cap (casting number 2482) is stronger than the grey iron caps installed on most production small-blocks with 2.45" main bearings. It can be retrofitted on blocks originally produced with two-bolt mains, or used to upgrade a four-bolt block for racing. These caps are used on cylinder case 10185047.
Technical Notes: This is a semi-finished cap with four parallel bolt holes; the ends of the cap must be machined to register it in the block. The block must be align bored after installing replacement caps.
Why would you use these instead of steel splayed caps?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 10:13 AM
  #23  
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Back to the block in question, do you guys think it is something suitable for a streetable engine making 400-500 HP? I am trying to get the most for my money and not go overkill with parts but also have a good strong engine.

I just talked to a local machine shop and told him what I wanted and he said about $500 for the machine work.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by timd02
Back to the block in question, do you guys think it is something suitable for a streetable engine making 400-500 HP? I am trying to get the most for my money and not go overkill with parts but also have a good strong engine.

I just talked to a local machine shop and told him what I wanted and he said about $500 for the machine work.
What would the $500 cover?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #25  
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The whole "high nickel" thing is so overrated its not even funny. Dont lose any sleep over it

About any 4 bolt block can handle 4-500 hp all day long if the machine work and balance job is done right. There are 2 bolt main blocks doing that every day.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by timd02
Back to the block in question, do you guys think it is something suitable for a streetable engine making 400-500 HP? I am trying to get the most for my money and not go overkill with parts but also have a good strong engine.

I just talked to a local machine shop and told him what I wanted and he said about $500 for the machine work.
Ok Its looking like the machine shop route is going to cost a few bucks 500 plus you still need a block. Now back to your ordered ones, they are 100% done and you have a block in the deal of course. As a few other posters have said 500HP is no biggie and I concur with them. So how much money you got to blow for the block and machine work? If the pre done block is within your tolerance level ($) then get the puppy and get to building an engine!!!

All this nickle 10 20 stuff is a side bar thing and has no bearing on your engine. It's just a topic if you plan on digging up a block or finding a block locally and can have a choice in block A over block B etc etc. I'm thinking you're after a ready to go block and your tracking fine in that direction. Just to make your self feel better ask the company exactly what kind of block would you be getting if you said right now send it for the warm fuzzy feeling? 70's 90's etc. All of them can do 500HP some just better than others for the long haul. You kinda have no way of knowing what block you end up with until you look at the cast markings.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 02:12 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
Why would you use these instead of steel splayed caps?
Cuz sometimes when looking for a new project engine you can still find these already installed. So the work is done saving $$$ and better than stock. True steel splayed is da bomb but now you have to have your block machined and thats $$$ money well spent if your building a 1,000 HP engine and a must!!!
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 02:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BLOCKMAN
Last I knew those caps are not available any more!!
Looks to not be the case, I was shocked as well.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 03:59 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 69Zlover
Looks to not be the case, I was shocked as well.
We use to use alot of those caps when they were 11.00 a peice then they went to 38.00 or better ands it was cheaper to buy the billet caps from ProGram Engineering.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 04:53 PM
  #30  
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If your serious about building a nice engine and want a nice foundation I would look at the Dart SHP block and they can be bored up to 4.165 but you can buy them with a 3.995 bore and 4.120 bore to start with.

Since those blocks came out we rarely have to deal with the older GM blocks.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 05:03 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by BLOCKMAN
If your serious about building a nice engine and want a nice foundation I would look at the Dart SHP block and they can be bored up to 4.165 but you can buy them with a 3.995 bore and 4.120 bore to start with.

Since those blocks came out we rarely have to deal with the older GM blocks.
I have thought about going with the Dart SHP block. Do they need any machining when you get them from the factory? I was just looking at cost and it looks like I could have a block and rotating assembly for just about the price of the Dart block. Trying to get the most for best cost but not going too cheap.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 06:39 PM
  #32  
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So I was looking at the GM Performance 383 block and am now confused even more. It states that it has a bore size of 4.00 and is machined to take a 3.800 stroke. How is it still a 383 with a 4.00 bore? Here is the link:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-88962516/

I also talked to a technical advisor at Summit and they have someone doing the machine work for them. He did not know if the sonic tested the blocks but rather figured they did prior to the machining. He also said it had a deck height of 9.013. He said that they have sold alot of them and have had no issues. I found that SCD Parts sells the new GM block for a few hundred dollars cheaper than Summit. What's the thoughts/suggestions on the new GM block?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 06:59 PM
  #33  
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The GM crate still has 383 cubic inches because the stroke is 3.80" instead of 3.75".
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 07:08 PM
  #34  
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BLOCKMAN World ( Bill Mitchel Hardcore ) has a new Motown smallblock, the Motown II have you had a chance to check it out. I know you don't like them but would like to know about what they changed with this new block
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
The GM crate still has 383 cubic inches because the stroke is 3.80" instead of 3.75".
I was looking at rotating assemblies and I only found an Eagle brand one for a 4.00 bore but still a 3.75 stroke. I did not find any that called for a 3.800 stroke and a 4.00 bore.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 07:14 PM
  #36  
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For that power level a good stock 4 bolt main block will work fine and have much less in it after machining.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 07:17 PM
  #37  
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Would it be advisable to have a 4.000 bore taken out to a 4.030 bore so that you would have more choices with the rotating assembly? Then you could run the 3.75 stroke rather than the 3.800 stroke.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #38  
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Yes that would be a good choice. You could go with a 3.75 or 3.875 for a 396 rotating assembly.

http://www.callies.com/compstar/cran...l-block-chevy/
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:40 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by l88rocket
For that power level a good stock 4 bolt main block will work fine and have much less in it after machining.

It may not be a good peice once its sonic tested!!!! I know I have about 40 of those blocks that are not good for a performance build!!
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 09:44 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
BLOCKMAN World ( Bill Mitchel Hardcore ) has a new Motown smallblock, the Motown II have you had a chance to check it out. I know you don't like them but would like to know about what they changed with this new block
With the problems we have had with World blocks and world would never take them back after we found issues with them.

Just to let you know World does not even machine their own blocks as the are machined at http://www.roi-1.com/ Thats maybe why they would take them back as what would they do with them!!!

I got burned by World one to many times in the past.
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