Cam identification help
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 73
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From: Mason TX
Cam identification help
i pulled the timing cover and cam gear off the front of the engine, and found a bunch of numbers on the nose of the cam. could someone help me out with identifying this cam i have?
here are the numbers:
R47115
10
306S
3
7
it also had another marking on it that looked like overlapping C's. so i dont know if maybe it stands for comp cams? or maybe Crane Cams? thanks in advance for the help!
here are the numbers:
R47115
10
306S
3
7
it also had another marking on it that looked like overlapping C's. so i dont know if maybe it stands for comp cams? or maybe Crane Cams? thanks in advance for the help!
Racer
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 451
Likes: 2
From: Toronto On
google 306S camshaft:
one hit:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Comp-Cams/Comp...54857/10002/-1
306S Series
The 306S Solid Magnum Cam is an excellent grind for large cubic inch Pro-Street type engines. This cam has tremendous high RPM power and needs to be used with headers, intake and higher compression. This cam does not have the advance made into it and will need to be degreed in.
one hit:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Comp-Cams/Comp...54857/10002/-1
306S Series
The 306S Solid Magnum Cam is an excellent grind for large cubic inch Pro-Street type engines. This cam has tremendous high RPM power and needs to be used with headers, intake and higher compression. This cam does not have the advance made into it and will need to be degreed in.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
You need to do a little research about something called "dynamic compression ratio" as opposed to "static compression ratio". Google dynamic compression ratio, and you will find plenty of articles explaining what it is, and why you need to know about it. It has to do with cylinder pressure; big cams with alot of valve overlap bleed off cylinder pressure, and so need a higher static compression ratio to keep cylinder pressure up. It's all very interesting once you start to get into it, and you will be much, MUCH more enlightened about just how engines work.
Scott
Scott
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
I had this cam in My 70 Z28 with 10:1 comp. It had a 3500 stall, 4.11 gears and worked fine. I also had light weight pistons that let it rev faster. The one thing I think would have been nice would be a set of AFR heads and at least an 850 carb. I also had dual 3" exhaust with flowpath mufflers. I started with 2.5" with the turbo thrush mufflers, but were too restrictive. It ended up blowing exhaust out the seems all the way around the mufflers.Also the engine was built to handle 7200 RPM shifts.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 73
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From: Mason TX
I had this cam in My 70 Z28 with 10:1 comp. It had a 3500 stall, 4.11 gears and worked fine. I also had light weight pistons that let it rev faster. The one thing I think would have been nice would be a set of AFR heads and at least an 850 carb. I also had dual 3" exhaust with flowpath mufflers. I started with 2.5" with the turbo thrush mufflers, but were too restrictive. It ended up blowing exhaust out the seems all the way around the mufflers.Also the engine was built to handle 7200 RPM shifts.
the 306s grind cam
781 cast iron heads with 2.19 intake valves
either an edelbrock torker 2 intake, or weiend dual plane intake
And I also have an 800 holley. I'll have to get it out to see if it's a double pumper or not, but it is mechanical secondaries..
for now I am going to run a 400 auto, with a 2600 stall convertor, but am planning to swap to a 4 speed in the future.. I have stock gearing in the rear end, thinking 3.08, but haven't gotten that far into checking numbers.. But I would like to throw in a set of 3.73 gears..
Now that you guys see the stuff I have, can I make this combo work?
Id prefer to run 87 octane, but if I keep this combo, 91 octane is doable!
Also as far as pistons go, I'm looking into some Keith black silva lites, because they are a little less expensive.. What would be your recommendations? And thanks to all you guys for helping with all of this, y'all are helping me learn a lot more about engine building than just bolting parts on and going!
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 11,094
Likes: 990
From: Sierra Foothills CA
Here's what I have so far for this engine:
the 306s grind cam
781 cast iron heads with 2.19 intake valves
either an edelbrock torker 2 intake, or weiend dual plane intake
And I also have an 800 holley. I'll have to get it out to see if it's a double pumper or not, but it is mechanical secondaries..
for now I am going to run a 400 auto, with a 2600 stall convertor, but am planning to swap to a 4 speed in the future.. I have stock gearing in the rear end, thinking 3.08, but haven't gotten that far into checking numbers.. But I would like to throw in a set of 3.73 gears..
Now that you guys see the stuff I have, can I make this combo work?
Id prefer to run 87 octane, but if I keep this combo, 91 octane is doable!
Also as far as pistons go, I'm looking into some Keith black silva lites, because they are a little less expensive.. What would be your recommendations? And thanks to all you guys for helping with all of this, y'all are helping me learn a lot more about engine building than just bolting parts on and going!
the 306s grind cam
781 cast iron heads with 2.19 intake valves
either an edelbrock torker 2 intake, or weiend dual plane intake
And I also have an 800 holley. I'll have to get it out to see if it's a double pumper or not, but it is mechanical secondaries..
for now I am going to run a 400 auto, with a 2600 stall convertor, but am planning to swap to a 4 speed in the future.. I have stock gearing in the rear end, thinking 3.08, but haven't gotten that far into checking numbers.. But I would like to throw in a set of 3.73 gears..
Now that you guys see the stuff I have, can I make this combo work?
Id prefer to run 87 octane, but if I keep this combo, 91 octane is doable!
Also as far as pistons go, I'm looking into some Keith black silva lites, because they are a little less expensive.. What would be your recommendations? And thanks to all you guys for helping with all of this, y'all are helping me learn a lot more about engine building than just bolting parts on and going!
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 73
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From: Mason TX
I knew I forgot to add something in there! The engine has been bored out 60 over.. I believe 4.31 bore size. The pistons I have already are silvolites, but I don't know the dome size.. (How can I measure this to find out?)
Would you mind telling me the aggressive cams you're talking about? Cam grinds and whatnot so I can check them
out and learn the differences between them? The car will mainly be street driven, and see the drag strip a few times.. Id like to stick with solid lifters.. Id like to use the money towards a cam, since I am learning from you guys this one I have is a little much for the street..
In the beginning I wanted to try to use this cam simply because it was already in the engine and it was agressive. Now learning it's a tad too much for the street, id rather put the money towards an aggressive street cam instead of different pistons..
And for rear gears, I plan in the future to run 3.73s since they seem to be a good all around set..
Would you mind telling me the aggressive cams you're talking about? Cam grinds and whatnot so I can check them
out and learn the differences between them? The car will mainly be street driven, and see the drag strip a few times.. Id like to stick with solid lifters.. Id like to use the money towards a cam, since I am learning from you guys this one I have is a little much for the street..
In the beginning I wanted to try to use this cam simply because it was already in the engine and it was agressive. Now learning it's a tad too much for the street, id rather put the money towards an aggressive street cam instead of different pistons..
And for rear gears, I plan in the future to run 3.73s since they seem to be a good all around set..
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 111
From: St Louis MO
If your compression ratio is really only 8.5:1, you might as well just use flat tappet hydraulics of 215 to 225 degrees of intake duration. If you really want solid lifters, add ~10 degrees to that. Use an exhaust duration of about 10 degrees more than whatever intake duration you pick. With this setup, a rear gear of 3.08 or 3.36 will be fine.
If you want to use a hyd, or solid, roller cam, figure and additional $800 to $1000, but IMO, I wouldn't do it unless you step up your whole combination.
BTW, a 4.31" bore 454 is 468 cubic inches.
If you want to use a hyd, or solid, roller cam, figure and additional $800 to $1000, but IMO, I wouldn't do it unless you step up your whole combination.
BTW, a 4.31" bore 454 is 468 cubic inches.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 73
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From: Mason TX
If your compression ratio is really only 8.5:1, you might as well just use flat tappet hydraulics of 215 to 225 degrees of intake duration. If you really want solid lifters, add ~10 degrees to that. Use an exhaust duration of about 10 degrees more than whatever intake duration you pick. With this setup, a rear gear of 3.08 or 3.36 will be fine.
If you want to use a hyd, or solid, roller cam, figure and additional $800 to $1000, but IMO, I wouldn't do it unless you step up your whole combination.
BTW, a 4.31" bore 454 is 468 cubic inches.
If you want to use a hyd, or solid, roller cam, figure and additional $800 to $1000, but IMO, I wouldn't do it unless you step up your whole combination.
BTW, a 4.31" bore 454 is 468 cubic inches.
So going by your recommendations, how do you think this cam would work out?:
http://www.dougherbert.com/herbert-p...cams-9650.html
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 73
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From: Mason TX
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 93
From: Bellmore NY
I ran this cam in a 9.86:1 454, 4000 stall converter, and 4:10's. Pleasingly choppy idle, and wicked midrange.
While it doesnt really require super high compression, I would NOT run this cam in a Corvette. Vacuum is VERY low, like 6 at idle...that cant good for power brakes or headlights on a Vette
While it doesnt really require super high compression, I would NOT run this cam in a Corvette. Vacuum is VERY low, like 6 at idle...that cant good for power brakes or headlights on a Vette
