Before I tackled on adjusting the clearance I thought I would get some initial guidance, it's been awhile since I've adjusted pushrod engine. Before I would take the #1 piston to TDC and adjust any rocker which are in the close position, then turn the crank until those that were opened are closed and adjust them. I've slept since so this recollection might fuzzy.

with this V-8, how much do I turn the crank to close the open valves while the #1 is at TDC. I can look at the position of the crank as I turn it, but I wanted to get some initial idea what I should experience during the process. thank you in advance.

 

You have the right idea. Set the engine to TDC for #1, then you can adust the valves for #1 and several other cylinders. Turn the crank 360*, to #6 TDC, then you can adjust the valves on #6 and several others. Unfortunately, I don't have the list available that shows which other valves can be adjusted at those TDCs, but if you do a search in this forum, I'm sure you'll find a thread that has it.

The other way is to start at #1, as above. Then turn the crank 90* and adjust #8. Then turn the crank 90* and adjust #4. Continue that all the way around the firing order.

 

Thank you. I did a search but was not sucessful, maybe it was way I worded it. I will try again, I think what you provided should get me going.

 

Its easiest to do while its running. It isn't as messy as people make it sound (as long as its idling ok).

Just remove the valve cover, you can buy the Valve Adjuster Shields if you want (Summit had them, but they were more pain then worth). You just loosen the valve until it chatters, then tighten it up until the chatter stops, and turn it an additional 3/4 turns. Best to do it in 1/4 increments. Little bit of oil may get on the exhaust manifold, but it burns off in a few minutes.

 

I just did this today so here goes
With the #1 in thew compression stroke at TDC you can do the following adjustments.
EXHAUST 1,3,4,8
intake 1,2,5,7

Next turn the engine over one revolution
Adjust the following
Exhaust 2,5,6,7
Intake 3,4,6,8

I was told to tighten them just till they get snug and wont turn between your fingers, then tighten them 3/4 of a turn more. I did this and ran the motor for a while, tomorrow I need to re-adjust cause a few are a bit noisy. Good Luck

 

Get a metallic "sharpie" marker and mark your balancer if it is a 8" diameter, about every 6.25"=90 degrees of rotation. The you can set all your valves at TDC correctly with no mistakes. Math is simple, balancer diameterX3.14 then divide by 4 for proper length of 90 degrees of cranck rotation.

 

This is the method I've used since high school.


Instructions by 427 HOTROD

First you have to roll the motor around to set each valve right? The cam has to be on the base circle. Easiest way for me is to set them as follows:

1) When the exhaust on a cylinder is just starting to OPEN...set the intake valve on that cylinder.
2) When the intake is almost CLOSED..set the exhaust on that cylinder.


So back off all the valves until they are loose and then start bumping motor over watching the valves as above.

Once you get it on correct position to set each valve...you want to reach down and pinch the pushrod between your fingertips right below the rocker arm. Lift it up and down with the nut backed off. You want to slowly tighten the adjuster nut just until that up and down slop just barely disappears. You want to just BARELY take all the slack out of the assy. Don't overtighten...you just barely want that up and down wiggle to be gone. It only takes finger tip action...you will likely still be able to spin the pushrod when you have just barely got it to *O* lash.THAT is *O* lash.....the lifter plunger is up and you have no play in the pushrod/rockerarm/valve. THEN you tighten the 1/4-1/2 turn to put the lifter plunger down in the lifter slightly.

Repeat by bumping the motor around for each valve....it will run then just fine.


Good luck! Instructions by 427 HOTROD

 

Best advice [so far] is from ...Roger... The 'up and down shake' method is far superior to the 'spin' method for non-pros to find the Zero-Lash point. He also denotes the simplest method for identifying fully closed valves to adjust. Well done, ...Roger...

 

There all good methods, it's just the way you got used to doing it , I've done it the car running with the cutout valve cover and it's easy and quick, but marking the balancer in 1/4's is the best way and more accurate, in my opinion, Ron

 

go to your tool box and write 'EOI and ICE' on the inside of the tool box top which is the abbreviated version that Roger described in his reply. Then follow his suggestions to actually adjust the valves whether its a solid or hydraulic cammed engine.....quickest and correct every time...next time just look at the box to remember the procedure....

that balancer marking and cut out valve cover method takes way to long and its easy to make mistakes wiping out a cam in the process....

 

Yep!

 

If I follwed some of these difficult answers to lash my valves I would swear off LT-1's for life. Do whatever you wan't I'll stick to marking the balancer and setting valves at TDC on the firing stroke. I can do valve adjustments in under an hour using my method.

 

Since I've been doing the basic methods from my long time ago basic automotive school, I went with the #1 at TDC and adjusting the necessary lose roker and so on. Then again I had to try all the methods just to see which one works best for me.

One thing I could not arrive to an agreement with everyone who adjust them while the engine is running. Too much work and messy. I thank you for everyone's inputs and giving me several approach to try. Valves are no longer noisy.