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Heater Core Bypass

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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 02:03 PM
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Default Heater Core Bypass

Good Day Folks, New to the forum and new to the sport. My boys and I are working with a 74 with the 350 J motor. We've redone the brakes, and now it's time to do some motor work. I'm replacing the water pump and alternator, more to be proactive than recognizing any problems. Question is, I want to bypass the heater core, can anyone help with the routing of the hoses from the pump and intake? Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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Just block off the ports at the water pump and the intake manifold with the correct size plugs. I will be doing the same thing as soon as this cold weather breaks.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by njcardave
Just block off the ports at the water pump and the intake manifold with the correct size plugs. I will be doing the same thing as soon as this cold weather breaks.
That's what I did on mine. Been working fine for years and it gets rid of ugly hoses under the hood. BTW, the plugs are pipe thread sizes.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by njcardave
Just block off the ports at the water pump and the intake manifold with the correct size plugs. I will be doing the same thing as soon as this cold weather breaks.


Brass ones, Home Depot or Lowes

Just be sure there's a little bypass hole in your thermostat. And if there's not, then drill one through it. You want some coolant moving past it at all times.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 02:31 PM
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Would it make sense to route a hose from the water pump to the intake?
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by garrysaw
Would it make sense to route a hose from the water pump to the intake?

I don't think it would have any benefit, it would just be letting some water not go through the radiator to get cool.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by garrysaw
Would it make sense to route a hose from the water pump to the intake?

I believe they are different sizes. One is 5/8" and the other is 3/4"
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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block off with pipe plugs. no need to have hose do a loop for no reason.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
I believe they are different sizes. One is 5/8" and the other is 3/4"
While that's true it's pretty common practice to use one hose for this bypass. This is especially true if you have to make the repair away from you garage. The larger hose is easier by the way.

In any case, I agree with the rest; just use a simple pipe plug. A little sealer won't hurt but isn't totally necessary.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 05:08 PM
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I wouldn't block one off other than a temporary fix.

Having a heater is handy. Even when it's warm, a defroster once in a while can be nice.

Just an opinion, your mileage may vary.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 07:35 PM
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In OSH I would think heat is a MUST ... I used to fly in the airshow up there... Summer is two weeks of bad sledding !!
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by garrysaw
Would it make sense to route a hose from the water pump to the intake?
Both my 73 and my 76 are done this way. It works fine. The 73 has been done this way since dad built the car in 94. The 76 I had to do last summer when the heater core started to leak.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 09:58 AM
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U17 - Good point about the weather. I work at a company just east of the north/south runway. On my way to the office yesterday morning, the thermometer on the car said -12F. But without the humidity, it's a dry heat. Thanks for all the input folks. G
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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The threads in the holes for the heater hoses are both 1/2 NPT. As far as type of plug, I wouldn't use brass plugs because aluminum and brass have different galvanic potential and will cause corrosion of the less noble metal (aluminum). It's better to use aluminum plugs in an aluminum manifold, and iron pipe plugs in a cast iron water pump.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by garrysaw
the thermometer on the car said -12F. But without the humidity, it's a dry heat.
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