When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have installed the kit and my steering wheel is severely off center. The instructions say to remove the steering wheel and relocate. Tried that but the middle of the three spokes sits in a groove on the collar. That collar and steering shaft has a flat machined surface that matches up so it would not be possible to move it either. What have you done? Aftermarket wheel?
[Modified by 71stingraybigblock, 12:42 AM 4/12/2002]
I see what your saying, but the wheel is completely upside down. The only thing I can think of is to drill and thread a new hole for the set screw in the upper u-joint.
The rag joint is eliminated. In its place is a double univ.joint that has splines to match the steering shaft and 1 set screw that tightens down on the flat mach. surface of the steering shaft. This is were I am considering drilling and tapping a new hole just opposite of the orig.
With the new steeroids u/joint the set screw does not have to be tightened on the flat. Once that baby is on them splines it is not going anywhere. the set screw can be tightned to hold it snug. The shear # of splines and the size compared to stock should allow the wheel to be straight. make sure rack is centred. Maybe eric will chime in to confirm my comment.
Paso, nice pic. I thought about that but was concerned about jacking up the splines. Did you have any troubles w/ adjusting out the binding? I do want to add that I love the new feel of the steering.
Yes it's like cutting, measure twice cut once. :D I found a comfortable center. wether you run a drill bit down the hole to allow the set screw to seat a little or Jack the threads the results are the same IMHO:)
Drilling a new hole is no problem. The steering columns I've seen have the flat ground a little ways from the end so there is a lip. This would help guard against the u-joint slipping off if the setscrew worked loose. It would at least be advisable to grind a flat so the setscrew could lock in better if it were moved from the factory flat.
As a side note, what headers are you guys running? I'm compiling a list of model numbers that work with the system.
71big, AS I RECALL, the rack input can be flipped upside down and go on either way as it's a symetrical double dee arrangement....may need double check on that...
if that will not work, you will need to take rack apart, unscrew unfasten the pinion input and recenter the thing on the rack....I had to do that TWICE once on each of the NEW "REBUILT" racks I had in my '87.....incorrect from the factory....
you need count the turns lock to lock, then from one stop, turn the wheel just 1/2 at much, that is with rack disconnected from wheels,...rack is now centered, and steering wheel should be straight...
You can remove the bracket that the stearing wheel bolts to. I think I used a gear puller. As a matter of fact, when I repainted my steering column (too lazy to remove it) I put that bracket a tooth or two off, it has splines like a clutch disc or the picture posted earlier, and now I have to remove it again to center the wheel properly. I have put it off since there is a snap ring that is a pain to get back on.
Of course you steering column is probably differen than mine so this might not be an option available to you.
Messing with the steering wheel assy itself will result in the turn signal cancell function not working on one side, and being overly sensititve on the other....that part is indexed to the steering shaft, and can't be adjusted...
the steering wheel itself is installed with the two marker dots in alignment,...hard to see sometimes but there is only ONE correct position...
since he expereinces steering wheel about 180* out, upside down...
either the pinion in installed rong, or the input is upside down...
no ther conslucion to be reached....
since I made my own system, and used a junkyard rack, not a fresh rebuild, I know the rack is fine, the construction of my own input linkages necessitated filing another notch in the steering column output shaft as the securing bolt was interfeering....
My turn signal works fine except that is now it is too close to the steering wheel (or the steering wheel is to close to the turn signal, which ever your prefer), another reason I need to take it apart. The signal is attached to a plastic mechanism for signal and cancel which would probably break if I tried to bend it without taking it apart.
Besides, using your logic, if something break or was malfuntioning in the steering column you couldn't fix it. I think they are engineered to be put together AND taken apart without causing any problems. Granted I put mine a tooth or two off but everything works fine except the wheel is off center.
Burners, I have stock exhaust manifolds, but would be very interested in a list of headers that work w/ 454 4spd. There is not a lot of room to work with. If I remember correctly all of the joints go onto shafts and onto the rack one way. I mean that there is only one postition for them to mount. A flat surface and a countersink on the rack and two holes on ea. end of the intermediate shaft. I am leaning towards drilling a new hole 180 degrees of the orig hole in the u joint attaching to the steering shaft. Besides, a friend in the machine shop said that he would do it for me.
Fevre, My wheel is actually a make up from pieces from a '79?? wheel, and some non tilt wheel parts...it actually only cost me about 60 bux total for a TT wheel complete, not including a new steering wheel itself of course...;-)))
but in fact I had to rebuild everything, more than once unfortunately untill it got it right...upper bearing decided to dive on me about 2 months after the initial rebuild...so in went the kit....
now I am aware the turn signal trip index will be actually about the only thing that determines CORRECT wheel center, after that the wheel should be put on straight, and after that, the center of whatever steering mechanism....box, rag joints, linkages, needs to agree and be lined up....that means the rack has to be centered to the throw, the tie rods adjusted properly, and if a recirc ball box is used, it needs centered on it's output so hooking up the wheel will work as new.....
AS I RECALL, in silly fact that turn signal trip plastic junk is the determining factor in satisfactory wheel/steering centering....