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Trouble shifting in to First/Reverse

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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 01:41 PM
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Default Trouble shifting in to First/Reverse

Lately I have been having alot of trouble shifting into first and reverse. The trim plate seems to be the interference, no question when the car is in third gear the shifter is centered in the hole. It seems like adjusting the shifter to the right would solve the problem. I climbed under the car but any adjustment seems really difficult with the crossmember in the way. Any suggestions?

I should also mention that the shifter is aftermarket. There is no lockout for reverse. Reverse is left of 1st gear, I assume that's now different than factory...? When I pulled the trim plate I noticed the shifter itself looks pretty new and says Hurst on the side. However, the shifter gates look pretty worn, is it possible to replace only the actual shifter rod. I've seen other posts of people having interference issues with Hurst shifters... maybe that's me but it has definitely gotten worse over time.

Paul

Last edited by Nomar116; Feb 13, 2011 at 01:49 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 03:38 PM
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I wanted to provide some pictures after further inspection. I guess the entire shifter was replaced.

The whole install seems pretty bubba...

Here's a pair of pictures of the hurst shifter. You can probably notice that as it sits in third gear its pretty far forward and left.






This picture shows the linkage attachments to the transmission. I'm not sure why they had to rig reverse like you see. The picture shows a thick steel wire (bubba!) attaching the shifter's linkage to the transmission. The picture is at a bit of an angle, the vertical axis of the car would run from the lower left to the upper right corner (look at the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th shifters which are basically vertical). The reverse lever on the transmission is really tucked behind the solenoid. Also, not sure what the electrical solenoid does but I just broke off the top electrical connector so I'll now have to address that as well...



A second picture of the wire attaching reverse...




Another electrical solenoid with a broken connection..



The last picture is one of the bolts attaching the shifter to the transmission. You can see the output yoke of the transmission i the upper right. I'm showing for reference if I have to remove the shifter. The thing seems a little loose and sort of pivots about this bolt.

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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 07:41 PM
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It looks to me like you have a Hurst shifter, but the rods look like factory rods. I would suggest getting a Hurst shift rod kit, and shift arms for your particular year. Looks like Bubba may have visited your car
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 08:58 PM
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I actually dug out what I believe to be the original shifter that came with a box of parts when I bought the car a little over a year ago. The linkages are still on the shifter so I think they were replaced. Obviously that replacement must not of been a bolt on job, hence this bubba wire attaching reverse.

Is it true that with these hurst shifters you can shorten the linkage length to help with this problem?
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil Zell
It looks to me like you have a Hurst shifter, but the rods look like factory rods. I would suggest getting a Hurst shift rod kit, and shift arms for your particular year. Looks like Bubba may have visited your car
I agree 100% this thing is super BUBBA! fix it with Hurst shift rods and follow the instructions for proper adjustments.

Actually your shift lever is missing the mounting clamp and I would wonder if the shifter is the proper Corvette one, everything has to be checked out or replaced.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 01:58 AM
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I'm looking at the AIM and other diagrams of the stock shifter install on this forum. I don't see the electrical solenoids in any of them. What are the two solenoids for?
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Nomar116
I'm looking at the AIM and other diagrams of the stock shifter install on this forum. I don't see the electrical solenoids in any of them. What are the two solenoids for?
I suspect that the two items I have circled are what you are calling "solenoids"?


The one I outlined in red is your reverse light switch. It should be connected to the reverse shift lever on the transmission with a small (about 5/32") bent wire.

The one that is installed in at the 3-4 shift lever (circled in yellow) is a mystery. AFAIK that is not a stock item on a Muncie transmission.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin_73
I suspect that the two items I have circled are what you are calling "solenoids"?

The one I outlined in red is your reverse light switch. It should be connected to the reverse shift lever on the transmission with a small (about 5/32") bent wire.

The one that is installed in at the 3-4 shift lever (circled in yellow) is a mystery. AFAIK that is not a stock item on a Muncie transmission.
Ok, so the reverse light is the one that I broke. Good to know! The connection is exactly as described, with a small bent wire that you can see in the picture. I originally thought this looked pretty bubba but from what I take from your post this is fine (???).

On another note, could I just use a spacer for the gear selector handle to center it up in the console? I saw another forum post describe that as a solution for the Hurst shifters.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomar116
Ok, so the reverse light is the one that I broke. Good to know! The connection is exactly as described, with a small bent wire that you can see in the picture. I originally thought this looked pretty bubba but from what I take from your post this is fine (???).

On another note, could I just use a spacer for the gear selector handle to center it up in the console? I saw another forum post describe that as a solution for the Hurst shifters.
The wire pushrod between the reverse light switch and the reverse shift lever is stock and works just fine since there is virtually no resistance in the switch.
If you remove the reverse light switch (which I assume you will since you said you broke a terminal off of it) be very careful with the tiny little clips (look like miniature hair pins) that hold that wire pushrod in place at both ends, they are VERY easy to lose.

As for the shifter, I can't really help you with that since I am not familiar with the Hurst.
I recently replaced the very worn stock shifter on my girlfriend's 68, but it looks like the Hurst mounts to the tail housing of the transmission, where the stock one mounts to a bracket that bolts to the crossmember.
If it does mount directly to the transmission a broken drivers side engine mount would probably cause the symptoms you have described.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 05:41 PM
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Is that a Muncie transmission?

I think Bubba might have switched it out for a Saginaw.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 06:23 PM
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From research on here it seems like the interference with the console is a very common symptom of these hurst shifters. The stick is completely vertical, some sticks have a cant towards the passenger side to help with the interference.

Looking at the transmission, it looks exactly like the diagrams I've been looking at for a M21. It has a 7 bolt side cover and even has a tag under one of the bolts with the number "271516WD."

I'm just hoping someone with experience spacing and adjusting a hurst shifter can come along and offer some insight.

Thanks for the help!
Paul
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 01:35 AM
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So I removed the shifter, its a Hurst Competition Plus. Enclosed are pictures. The mounting bracket is suspect. The bottom hole was notched and only two bolts were holding the bracket to the transmission. Because of this it was a little loose. I'm not sure why it was notched and if it will install correctly with three bolts, I'll try that tomorrow.

Any suggestions on cleaning/lubricating the shifter while it is off?







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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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I had a Hurst Comp Plus in my '71 and had no issues with it while in the car. Its been a while, but I know there was no notching of the holes in the mounting plate. Also, my shift lever looked like the original with the "T" handle, so maybe that is part of your issue. I don't think I like the washers to shim it over. Just looks like another problem down the road. My $.02
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 02:44 PM
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Yea, I'm not sure what happened on this install. I'm pretty sure its the original transmission and checks out visually, it looks like the right shifter too, so perhaps they just didn't know what they were doing.

As for the washers, I do agree that its pretty shady. As far as I can tell the Competition Plus is suppose to come with a spacer. I can buy a replacement from Zip but I thought I'd use the washers to make sure the spacer will give me the clearance I need.

Was the stick you installed on the shifter angled towards the passenger side at all? Mine is completely straight which does not help with the clearance issue...

I will be reinstalling this in the coming day or two. I went ahead and removed it to fix the mounting issue and readjust the linkages so the stick's throw is further aft. Part of the clearance issue is that the stick is to far forward for the center console. Any suggestions on how to make this adjustment? As far as I can tell shortening the rods with a drill bit used to maintain neutral on the shifter should move the stick further aft...

Last edited by Nomar116; Feb 16, 2011 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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The forward solenoid is the tcs switch, probably not hooked up, so do not worry about it, get the correct spacer and the correct adapter to mount the shifter to the trans, the adapter needs 3 bolts into the trans and the shift is held in by 2 bolts, the lower bolt is real real close to the tailshaft housing, you need the correct bolt or it will hit the tail housing. Get to both bolts from below reaching from the front to the back with someone that has a little arm and hands, then hook up the linkage. Btw, those are the stock shifter arms, get the hurst ones
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by morganjd
The forward solenoid is the tcs switch, probably not hooked up, so do not worry about it, get the correct spacer and the correct adapter to mount the shifter to the trans, the adapter needs 3 bolts into the trans and the shift is held in by 2 bolts, the lower bolt is real real close to the tailshaft housing, you need the correct bolt or it will hit the tail housing. Get to both bolts from below reaching from the front to the back with someone that has a little arm and hands, then hook up the linkage. Btw, those are the stock shifter arms, get the hurst ones
THANK YOU!! Had no idea on the arms, any way to tell if the linkages also need replacing? I did notice that the lower bolt was interfering with the tail shaft slightly (bolt was too long) so I guess I'll need to replace it. Looks like its suppose to be a 3/8"-24 x 2 3/4" hex head cap screw.

I can tell after removing the shifter, just looking down at the scratches on my hands/arms, that its going to be a tight fit to get this thing back in.
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 10:36 AM
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The mounting plate looks like the correct one for a Borg Warner ST-10.
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 09:20 PM
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I've left this project sitting around for about a month while I was doing some military workups. I'd like to get this shifter back in the car pronto.

Anyone have any leads on where I could find the Hurst shifter arms? I am pretty sure the linkages would also need to be changed. I went out today thinking I could make this all work with the stock transmission shifter arms but I noticed that the linkages themselves are pretty loose in the shifter (I assume they are stock as well). Thinking I need to find both the shifter arms and linkages...
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