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Engine Rebuild Thoughts?

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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:05 PM
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Default Engine Rebuild Thoughts?

These are my rebuilt thoughts. let me know what you think and what i should change. Want a little more power, and that muscle car sound.
I was thinking:
Rebuilt bottom end; new pistons, rings, crank oil pump, oil pump catch, new gaskets.
World production Sportsman II heads. 64cc domes 200cc flow
comp cam 10 degree lobs, 488 lift.
Comp lifters
stock push rods
1.6 roller rockers
stock intake distributor and carb.
What do you think of the heads and cam? what other cam option would you recommend?
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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If you are putting in a new crank why no put a stroker crank in. The crank cost will be the same.
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:24 PM
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car came with a new stock crank so don't want to spend the money on a different one, plus have a shop that owes me a favor that is rebuilding the motor for me.
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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Those heads and the cam are going to want to breath, I would be thinking about a high performance intake and exhaust system.
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Old Feb 17, 2011 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim81
Those heads and the cam are going to want to breath, I would be thinking about a high performance intake and exhaust system.
has a high performance exhaust 2.5" no cats long tube headers delta 40 series mufflers, but want to keep the intake manifold carb and distributor stock. are the heads good? was told that they are good but have no background on them.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:30 AM
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I think you would enjoy a head with a smaller intake port on the street
Something in the 180ish range
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:52 AM
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The specs on the cam need to be a little more specific. The heads are a little big for a stockish 350 but could work if that is what you have. If you want it to look somewhat stock why not get a decent aluminum intake and paint it orange and use the Qjet and rebuild it to give some more performance. On the cam post the duration numbers @ .050 lift. That will give a better idea of the cam specs
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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whats the difference between the 200cc and the 180cc intake port? what will that do performance wise? Also any recommendations on what heads would be better?
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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Would Iron Eagle Platinum Small Block Chevy Cylinder Heads with 180cc intake ports, 64cc combustion chamber, angled plugs, 2.02/1.6 Intake & Exhaust Valves, and 1.250 single Valve Springs be better then the World production Sportsman II heads?
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by amf133
Would Iron Eagle Platinum Small Block Chevy Cylinder Heads with 180cc intake ports, 64cc combustion chamber, angled plugs, 2.02/1.6 Intake & Exhaust Valves, and 1.250 single Valve Springs be better then the World production Sportsman II heads?
For a mild 350 build like you are posting yes the 180 heads would be a better choice.
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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Should I go with these heads? Also will they work with stock bottom end? It says they work with most 23°aftermarket pistons. 49cc heads, 21 Degree flat top? Not sure what that means. Also is 77cc exhaust port volume to much, compared to the other heads that have 69cc? Will these heads work with my stock intake and carb?
Thank You
amf133

Here are the exact specs:

Dart Iron Eagle Heads
Material: Superior iron alloy
Comb Chambers: 64cc
Intake Valve Dia: 2.02”
Intake Port volume: 180cc
Intake Port Dim: 1.920”x 1.120”
Int Port Location: Stock
Intake Gasket: Fel-Pro#’s #1204 (can Not use an OEM type)
Exh Valve Dia.: 1.600”
Exh Port volume: 77cc
Exhaust Port Dim: 1.350” x 1.400” w
Exh Port Location: Stock location & bolt pattern
Exhaust Gasket: Fel-Pro# 1404
Flow, Intake: 222cfm @ .500” lift / 28”
Flow, Exhaust: 175cfm @ .600” lift / 28”
Head Bolts: Stock bolts may be used. ARP# 134-3601
Head Studs: ARP# 134-4001 or 234-4301 (12pt)
Manifold: Dart Alum Dual Plane (opening 1.125”x1.880”) 5” tall or most aftermarket
Milling: Min. 58cc = .060” (.0065” = 1cc) Flat Mill
Angle mill .125” safely / .200” = 49cc 1.5° (carefully)
Pistons: Most 23°aftermarket pistons. 49cc heads, 21 Degree flat top
Push Rod length: Stock (Stock length = 7.800”)
Push Rod Guide Plate: Dart #27001110
Retainers: Steel 1.250” = ( 7° ) 1.437” = (10°)
Spark Plug: Angle or straight, .460” reach, tapered seat, Autolite AR133
Spring Cups: None
Spring Pockets: 1.550” OD (.030” deeper max)
Springs: Our Assembly:1.250S = 110# @ 1.700” / .520” max Comp 981
1.437D = 130# @ 1.800” / .620” max Comp 987
Valve Angles: 23°
Valve Length: Std = 4.935”
Valve Stem Dia: .3415” - 11/32”
Valve Train: Std SBC 3/8” stud mount
Valve Guides: .439” OD Int = Mag-bronze Exh = Phos-bronze (.002” press)
Valve Guide length: 1.950”
Valve Guide clearance: .0014” - .002” (with our .3415 dia. valve stem)
Valve Guide Spacing: 1.890” exhaust moved .030” from intake
Valve Seats: Powder metal, .006” press
Valve Seat dim. Exh - 1.650” x 1.350” x .350”
Valve Seat angles: Int = 32° - 45° - 60° - 70°-80° Exh = 37° - 45° - radius
Stud Girdle: Retains standard SBC stud location. Recommended Dart PN # 64110002
Torque: w/oil Head Bolts = 70 ft/lb
Rocker Studs = 45 ft/lb
Manifold = 35 ft/lb
Block Use: Any SBC Iron or Aluminum
Weight: 52 lbs
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 05:33 PM
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Mild build nothing beats the Sportman II haeds. slide those on with 1.6 rockes and the right cam and compression ratio and you are looking at a "streetable" 300 RWHP 350ci motor. How do I know ? I built one no second had info in any of my posts
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