Hi everyone im pretty new to the site here, hate to basically open up with questions and a really long post but really need some new input. Ive been searching threads for quite a while now trying to learn all I can, and looking for answers. The problems is this, aquired a 74 from my father in law about a month ago. He owned the car for 35 years...but its been sitting for about 10 years or longer. I got the car to my house and it wouldnt start. I got a brand new battery, rebuilt the carb, put fresh fuel in, changed the plugs and finally it started right up no problem. The starter had been cranking perfectly the whole time, engine starting right up, even drove it around the circle at the end of my street, everything fine. But then the starter cranked weaker and weaker until it just stopped, this is with a jump from another vehicle. So inspected the starter and noticed the wiring was all corroded and held on my one strand there, one wire rusted all the way off. Removed the starter, tested it at advance it worked, repaired the wiring even with the proper fusible link, changed the starter solenoid just in case, reinstalled the starter, changed the positive battery cable, the ground to the engine mount/frame, the negative battery cable. There was no grounding strap installed to the actual starter but it looks like there hasnt been for years. Every time I try and start now all I get is a rapid clicking. I have a picture or two of this other ambiguous wire that looks to be a fusible link that was burned out, only one strand of wire was in there the rest was melted. I have no clue what it goes to, but I also repaired that wire with a section of fusible wire to be safe.




This engine bay is a total mess, wires seem to be loose everwhere


So I have a new, charged battery
New positive battery cable, negative cable, ground from frame to engine mount
Repaired wiring to the starter
Changed the starter solenoid

When I turn the key, just rapid clicking. I know there were posts about a seatbelt interlock relay. Anyone know where I can find this?

 

The fusible link in the first 2 pics is for the ammeter.
Rapid clicking from the starter usually signifies a low battery , in other words not enough amperage getting to the starter. low battery,bad cables,bad ground,poor connections,etc

 

I have it jumped right now, gonna give it a nice charge before I try and start it. When my wife gets home ill try tapping the starter with a board or hammer. I know all the grounds and wires are good but im gonna go over the wiring diagram again just to be safe, its hard to tell what color is what when all the wire is faded or changed from the PO, and its wrapped up in 37 year old tape. Hopefully I just hooked something up backwards. Also there was no ground strap to ground the starter, I suppose i should figure out where that goes. Thanks for the response!

 

Roger is spot on, the issue is there somewhere. The small wires are not going to cause the problem you describe. Tapping the starter probably will not get what you need either. A good full charge on the battery, some good measurements with a voltmeter will tell you what you need to know.
Battery voltage at the battery and at the starter while someone hits the key will tell the tale. If the voltage drops at the battery you have a battery problem. If it drops at the starter but not at the battery indicates a wireing problem, it will be battery cables or ground cable on the engine mount.
If the voltage does not drop at either the battery or starter look at the new solenoid you put on there. Sometimes when a new solenoid is installed the electrical stud can get cocked in the hole and you don't get a good connection on the inside.

 

Ill try checking the voltage today, i need to go pick one up i have one at work but not for home. I was thinking about getting a new starter just to take that out of the equation also. And apparently im going to have to make a ground to go from a bellhousing bolt to one of the starter mount bolts. Off to the store

 

Are you sure you have a good connection at the battery?
If it is a side post battery make sure you don't have them cross threaded.

Make sure the attach point of the negative cable on the frame is good and clean. Grind, file, or sand the area to shiny bare metal before attaching the cable. Same with the engine-frame grounding strap.

 

Use your ohmmeter to check the resistance between the starter case and the battery negative terminal. It should be almost zero ohms. If it's high, you'll have the problems you're describing.

 

Feeling pretty dumb. I tried to jump the battery again and let it charge for a long time, clicked the first time then nothing. I took the month old battery to advance and they gave me a loaner....i put the loaner in and it cranked RIGHT up. I tested the battery terminals with a multimeter and got 12.8V but that was at idle. Im looking more into the alternator to make sure its good tommorrow but might just replace it either way. I guess its good i did all that digging because my error forced me to replace all those pesky and corroded wires lol. I guess i didnt realize a battery so new can get discharged to the point of not taking a charge with a jump. Thanks for all your input, ive done all of the above regarding changing the grounds, just looking into the alternator now.

 

It's in the red circle, but that is not today's problem.

 

im sure it will be a problem one day lol. I didnt see a red circle but is it the rusty looking box with the orange circle that says "lock" protruding from the upper passenger side firewall on the bottom left of the picture?

 

Yes, that's the relay.

For the alternator:Check the battery voltage with the engine off-should be about 12.2
Start the car battery voltage can jump to 14.2 (about) then after a few minutes the voltage should drop to and stay steady at (about) 13.8
or let auto-zone test it.

 

Yep its the alternator....advance confirmed it was toast. Replaced it today....didn't start it yet since I had to climb under the car and finish pulling that pita + battery cable. Man did that suck.....got the new cable routed thru all the factory clamps and had to go in. So once I tighten the clamps down and put the battery back in I'm suspecting all will be well.

 

Have you tried using a 'triggered hand starter' that attaches to the starter and bypassess the ignition? I've used one in the past for bumping the starter when setting timing but it also is helpful for starting the car from under the hood. I bought mine for under $20. It may help to establish if the ignition circuit is faulty (isolate).

If I recall correctly, it has two alligator clips. One goes to the main pole on the starter and the other to the smaller pole that wire connects to (instructions come with the device). I bought mine @ Sears Automotive dept.

 

No ill have to pick one of those up. I'm definitely gonna have to step up my game on troubleshooting lol. I got my battery cable clamps secured today, fired it up, got 14.7v at the battery. Seems all is good! Took her to the gas station put some gas....nice to get the old girl running ....she sounds fantastic despite how old and tired the engine bay looks. Time to dig into the brakes!