Brake caliper rebuild
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 406
Likes: 46
From: Lebanon OH
Brake caliper rebuild
I'm getting ready to rebuild the brake calipers on my 79. The car has the original calipers with the lip seals and I want to upgrade to the o-ring seals. I understand this requires new pistons, but what about the springs? Can I assume that if the springs aren't broken they're OK? If not, is there a test of some kind to see if they need replacing as well?
Do I have to hone the sleeves? If they have scratches, nicks or other minor damage do I have to replace them (the calipers)? I'm also assuming I have to take the calipers apart to replace the seals and pistons. Is there a torque setting for the bolts that hold the caliper halves together? I haven't taken them off yet, and just wanted to benefit from everyone else's experience before I started. Thanks for any information.
Do I have to hone the sleeves? If they have scratches, nicks or other minor damage do I have to replace them (the calipers)? I'm also assuming I have to take the calipers apart to replace the seals and pistons. Is there a torque setting for the bolts that hold the caliper halves together? I haven't taken them off yet, and just wanted to benefit from everyone else's experience before I started. Thanks for any information.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,126
Likes: 15
If they are the original calipers they may be rust pitted beyond rebuilding. You will not know for sure until you take them apart. In this thread I posted some pics. of my recent rebuild. With o-ring seals many guys say you do not need any springs. I reinstalled mine, they do push the pistons out just as they did with the lip seals. Good luck with it. mike...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-calipers.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-calipers.html
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
...Do I have to hone the sleeves? If they have scratches, nicks or other minor damage do I have to replace them (the calipers)? I'm also assuming I have to take the calipers apart to replace the seals and pistons. Is there a torque setting for the bolts that hold the caliper halves together? I haven't taken them off yet, and just wanted to benefit from everyone else's experience before I started. Thanks for any information.
http://www.vbandp.com/Tech-Info/
BRAKES
Caliper Mounting Bolts, front 70# 5/8" rear 70# 5/8"
Caliper Housing Bolts, front 130# 13/16" rear 60# 5/8"
If you go here, http://www.vbandp.com/How-To-Video/how-to-video.html and click on the C2/C3 Brakes Video
VB&P also has a video that will take you through a brake job on a C3. If you've done this a few times it may seem a bit more for a novice, but it's also a good refresher if you haven't done this job in a while.
Good luck... GUSTO
Last edited by GUSTO14; Feb 26, 2011 at 08:47 PM.
Supporting Vendor
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Andrew
800-442-0335
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
The un-sleeved calipers function just fine. The difference is that the stainless sleeved calipers are 'immune' to absorbed moisture in the brake fluid...they won't rust/pit due to moisture. And, if your car is used regularly and brake fluid is not allowed to get old (fluid refresh every few years), non-stainless calipers won't rust/pit, either.
If you need to replace your calipers due to damaged/rough bores or wear, get the sleeved replacements. Otherwise, it's up to you to justify replacing them with 'better' hardware. Remember, when replacing any calipers, replace them in pairs (fronts and/or backs) to the brakes are evenly 'balanced'. If you only need one caliper replaced, do so with the identical configuration as its 'mate'.
If you need to replace your calipers due to damaged/rough bores or wear, get the sleeved replacements. Otherwise, it's up to you to justify replacing them with 'better' hardware. Remember, when replacing any calipers, replace them in pairs (fronts and/or backs) to the brakes are evenly 'balanced'. If you only need one caliper replaced, do so with the identical configuration as its 'mate'.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 28, 2011 at 09:35 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 105
The un-sleeved calipers function just fine. The difference is that the stainless sleeved calipers are 'immune' to absorbed moisture in the brake fluid...they won't rust/pit due to moisture. And, if your car is used regularly and brake fluid is not allowed to get old (fluid refresh every few years), non-stainless calipers won't rust/pit, either.
If you need to replace your calipers due to damaged/rough bores or wear, get the sleeved replacements. Otherwise, it's up to you to justify replacing them with 'better' hardware. Remember, when replacing any calipers, replace them in pairs (fronts and/or backs) to the brakes are evenly 'balanced'. If you only need one caliper replaced, do so with the identical configuration as its 'mate'.
If you need to replace your calipers due to damaged/rough bores or wear, get the sleeved replacements. Otherwise, it's up to you to justify replacing them with 'better' hardware. Remember, when replacing any calipers, replace them in pairs (fronts and/or backs) to the brakes are evenly 'balanced'. If you only need one caliper replaced, do so with the identical configuration as its 'mate'.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,455
Likes: 977
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
I seriously doubt that unsleeved calipers on a C3 that has not had the brake fluid changed every 1-2 years from when the calipers were new from the factory would be serviceable today. The caliper design makes them highly susceptible to moisture corrusion, much more so than standard calipers on most cars yesterday and today. You might as well just change the calipers to SS ones since most likely the change would be coming at some point down the road anyhow. Just my 2 cents!
Last edited by jb78L-82; Feb 28, 2011 at 10:47 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,374
Likes: 224
From: Beecher Illinois
I said this in the past and I'll say it again....
If they're not already SS sleeved, don't bother rebuilding them!
Here's a fun read....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-calipers.html
Note how one of the "experts" rebuilt ONE caliper in his life.
And how things progressed from being "clean" to honed and polished.
If they're not already SS sleeved, don't bother rebuilding them!
Here's a fun read....
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...-calipers.html
Note how one of the "experts" rebuilt ONE caliper in his life.
And how things progressed from being "clean" to honed and polished.
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Advanced
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Arlington MA
In that old post members are talking about AutoZone and lifetime warranty calipers. NO MORE. They offer a 1 year warranty with only one replacement available during that period. I called all the other big box cheapie stores and they have all unfortunately smartened up. What's a cheap b*stard to do? 
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
In that old post members are talking about AutoZone and lifetime warranty calipers. NO MORE. They offer a 1 year warranty with only one replacement available during that period. I called all the other big box cheapie stores and they have all unfortunately smartened up. What's a cheap b*stard to do?
The ss liners won't fail from corrosion. Some time in the future, just replace the seals with a oring piston set (30 bucks/wheel) and after that you will probably need orings only.
Keep the fluid flushed every 2 years.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 105
When inserting the new pistons with O Ring seals they seemed very tight while inserting em into the bores. The bore was coated with brake fluid as was the piston and seal dipped in brake fluid upon insertion. I installed the springs as well.
I can insert them in the bores and they go all the way in but don't "Spring back" like the old lip seals used to. They stay at bottom. In fact pulling them out again requires some pulling/finessing etc. The bores are stainless and are perfectly smooth.
Is this normal with pistons with O ring seals? Will they work themselves in after they are put back into use?
Has anyone else had this experience with the new pistons and o ring seals?
Thanks!
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Don't worry about them not springing back, in fact most of the directions I have seen for them say not to install the springs at all.
There isn't much movement of the piston at all once the system is bled and used, only a few thousandths. They don't drag the rotors like the lip seals.
There isn't much movement of the piston at all once the system is bled and used, only a few thousandths. They don't drag the rotors like the lip seals.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,666
Likes: 1
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
So, who has the best deal on just outright buying a new or rebuilt set (all 4 corners) with the SS sleeved O-rings? I'm in the market but can and will wait on a "sale" to push me off the fence. Anyone?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 105
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
I'm pleased w/ Lonestar ... mine from local shop ... not much more than advance ap ... LCC warranty as good as it gets. Gravevine says lotsa big name vette specialty houses get theirs from LCC.
http://www.lonestarcaliper.com/c-3-brake-calipers.aspx
-add- they're on fleabay too ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-...Q5fAccessories
http://www.lonestarcaliper.com/c-3-brake-calipers.aspx
-add- they're on fleabay too ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-...Q5fAccessories
Last edited by jackson; Mar 6, 2011 at 12:04 PM.
Supporting Vendor
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From: Muskegon MI
Let me know if I can help!
Andrew
800-442-0335
