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I'm looking for opinions here. My car has a steeroids setup.
The steering wheel is about 15 degrees off center. I know I can fix this by shifting the ujoints, but after tinkering this weekend to remove slop and binds, I prefer not to redo this. Can I straighten the wheel via equal adjustment on the tie rods, or should I bite the bullet and rotate a ujoint by one-two splines?
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Not sure what year your is but on mine there is a flat on the rag joint and a flat on the steering box. With those lined up your steering wheel should be centered.
If your good there that YES make the last adjustment on the tie rods.
If it is off 15 degrees you should move it over a spline or two on the joint. By the time you get it centered using the tie rods one may be way in and the other way out. Do it right the first time. Take the extra time to get it right.
If it is off 15 degrees you should move it over a spline or two on the joint. By the time you get it centered using the tie rods one may be way in and the other way out. Do it right the first time. Take the extra time to get it right.
Good point. It maybe easier to pull the steering column back vs. Loosing all the ujoints.
Mine is on a lift and I found it easier to drop the one side of the rack. Loosen the other side and it drops enough to disengage the splines. Just a thought.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
On my '69 I was limited on what I could do with the u-joint positioning, so I just unbolted the steering wheel (held on by 6? screws), rotated it, and then bolted it back down.
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I'm working on the same thing with my 69. Steroids included. If the column shaft is in the correct position, the flat spot shoud be on top as it goes into the knuckle joint. If it is, and the wheels are straight, the steering wheel will have to be pulled. And not just the six screws removed, leave them alown, but the nut removed and the wheel pulled from the splined shaft. Each groove on the shaft, is about 15 degrees. So lock it down, determine which way you want to move it, pull the wheel, hub and all, and replace it in the correct position. You will have to remove the horn contact and shims to get to the nut.
I was 'assuming' that the steering column had not been altered internally. But, with these old cars, that might not a good assumption. You should also verify column shaft alignment to its hub. But, just seeing that the flat is "UP" on the steering box input shaft is not a good assumption either; it will be "UP" when the steering is turned one full rotation in either direction from 'true' center. You must be certain that the steering mechanism is on center at the start of this process.
If you start monkeying around with the steering wheel and the splines on the wheel hub the turn signals will not cancel at the right time. There is a notch in the hub and steering shaft. These should line up and the cancel feature will work correctly. Leave these in the proper position. I have installed many Steeroids and steering boxes and they will line up pretty close if done right. The tie rods are a final fine tune adjustment.
I played with it after work today. Real easy job if you unbolt the column to give enough slack to disconnect the top u joint. I moved it over one, and it can use one more. I will dial it in this Saturday. Thanks for the input folks