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I just bought some hugger headers for my sbc( google KMJ 5040B) and be it that I have never installed headers before I've been given some words of warning from mostly Mustang owners. I was told I had to lift my engine, disconnect some motor mounts but when I look under the hood it just looks like 9 bolts to take off and replace. My question is what should I prepare for before I start this project.
I just bought some hugger headers for my sbc( google KMJ 5040B) and be it that I have never installed headers before I've been given some words of warning from mostly Mustang owners. I was told I had to lift my engine, disconnect some motor mounts but when I look under the hood it just looks like 9 bolts to take off and replace. My question is what should I prepare for before I start this project.
*trying to figure out what the 9th bolt is*
6 bolts per header flange
You don't need to lift the engine or disconnect motor mounts. I just did mine a few months ago. I went from below on both sides. On the driver's side I think took out the clutch z-bar, steering rag joint, and PS pump to give myself enough room. The passenger's side went right in no problem. This was with the Summit headers though. Hugger headers are likely a bit easier.
the 9 bolts i was referring to is the 6 that go into the header and the 3 that go to the pipe. I guessing only from the amount of bolts they are going to give me. When you went in from below did you have to take the tire off or did you just jack the car enough so you can fit underneath?
oh durh, 6, you're right .. dunno what i was thinking
get ready to snap all the collector flange bolts apart if they're original
I didn't remove the wheels. I just put the front on some jackstands and slid under. Get a helper if you can to guide you from above and start a couple bolts in.
With the exhaust manifolds already off of my 71 with A/T all I did was jack both sides of the front end up about 18”or so place jack stands under both sides and the headers slid right up and in. Much easier than I anticipated took me about forty-five minutes or less.
First thing to do is soak the bolts with PB Blaster over night and that will make the removal much easier. Don't know what year your car is but if you have A/C you'll need a bracket to adapt to the header.
Everyone is right that install from underneath with the car jacked up is the best way to install the headers though the stock manifolds should come out from the top side. No need to remove tires or anything it really is a pretty simple install compared to alot of other cars out there.
When you go to install the headers thread the first and last bolt a few turns then drop the header gasket in, provided those holes in the gasket are a U shape if not do one then the other. After that do #2 and #5 since they are at the sharpest bent pipes. You'll need a gap between the head and the header to get these bolts started then work on the remaining bolts.
Longer bolts with lock washers is always a good idea but if you don't use them make sure you retighten the bolts after a few heat cycles of the engine to prevent any leaks. You'll find that the rear bolts are much easier to get to from underneath and you'll probably want to remove your starter to get more room to work but with hugger headers you may not need to do this, mine are full length and made life alot easier with the starter out.
I hope I'm not stealing your thread, but how are you planning on connecting the header collector flange to your exhaust pipe? I'm getting ready to do this myself on a 81.......Tim
First thing to do is soak the bolts with PB Blaster over night and that will make the removal much easier. Don't know what year your car is but if you have A/C you'll need a bracket to adapt to the header.
Everyone is right that install from underneath with the car jacked up is the best way to install the headers though the stock manifolds should come out from the top side. No need to remove tires or anything it really is a pretty simple install compared to alot of other cars out there.
When you go to install the headers thread the first and last bolt a few turns then drop the header gasket in, provided those holes in the gasket are a U shape if not do one then the other. After that do #2 and #5 since they are at the sharpest bent pipes. You'll need a gap between the head and the header to get these bolts started then work on the remaining bolts.
Longer bolts with lock washers is always a good idea but if you don't use them make sure you retighten the bolts after a few heat cycles of the engine to prevent any leaks. You'll find that the rear bolts are much easier to get to from underneath and you'll probably want to remove your starter to get more room to work but with hugger headers you may not need to do this, mine are full length and made life alot easier with the starter out.
I got a 350 engine/1980 vette. I don't know what type of bracket I need but I do have A/C. A Nonfunctional A/C but thats another story altogether.
Tim- Im going to go with using longer bolts with lock washers palm suggested. The bolts they provided seem mighty short and looking at the exhaust manifold It looks like that was what is currently being used.