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engine starting after 1.5 years without being cranked

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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:06 AM
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From: Where are the Smoky Mountain Cruisers? Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Default engine starting after 1.5 years without being cranked

My car has been sitting in the basement garage for 1.5 years without having the engine cranked. I've been reworking my suspension, brakes and had the gas tank out to find a leak (vapor separator was leaking) What steps should I take to get it running again?
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:04 AM
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I always remove the plugs and spray some fogging oil in each cyl. Then start it with a shot of starting fluid.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:20 AM
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Yep ... Plugs out... Motor over till you get oil pressure indicated.. Unless you have a way of pumping oil in without rotating to get oil pressure indicated. (pre-oil)...
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 09:06 AM
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If you're not going to pre-oil it by removing the distributor and inserting the appropriate tool, then just fill the carb with gas and fire it off.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
If you're not going to pre-oil it by removing the distributor and inserting the appropriate tool, then just fill the carb with gas and fire it off.
What's the advantage of removing the distributor to pre-oil? What tool?
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 74 vert
What's the advantage of removing the distributor to pre-oil? What tool?
I didn't say there was an advantage as I wouldn't bother with it, but the tool takes the place of the distributor housing and has a shaft inside to drive the oil pump with a drill.

For the Nervous Nellies, (careful, Mr. Nasty!) GM never pre-oiled engines. They stuck it on the test stand and fired it up. Despite this horrid abuse, they usually ran only a few hundred thousand miles before needing an overhaul.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 10:07 AM
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Charge the battery, put gas in the tank, and light 'er up. A year and a half storage [inside] is nothing.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 10:52 AM
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I wouldn't consider it necessary to pull the distributor and prime the oil pump but if that's no big deal to you then go for it- that's the safest way to get oil pressure before starting. Otherwise turn the motor over until you have oil pressure showing on your gauge and then fire it up. It's turning a lot slower via the starter than it will when it fires up so that's better for it than a start without pumping oil through the system first.

Last edited by Les; Mar 12, 2011 at 11:00 AM.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Les
Otherwise turn the motor over until you have oil pressure showing on your gauge and then fire it up. It's turning a lot slower via the starter than it will when it fires up so that's better for it than a start without pumping oil through the system first.
Turning it on the starter only just prolongs the period with little or no oil pressure.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Charge the battery, put gas in the tank, and light 'er up. A year and a half storage [inside] is nothing.
Absolutely correct! Just fire it up-1.5 years is nothing and most of the suggestions above are not necessary after that short of time. maybe I would crank it for 10 seconds at a time without letting it fire until oil pressure shows on the dash gauge and then let it rip.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Turning it on the starter only just prolongs the period with little or no oil pressure.
Sorry Mike but I will have to disagree. Spinning the motor slowly with out firing for a 5 seconds at a time until you have some oil pressure is better than firing the engine when cold with zero oil pressure, zero oil coating anything internally after 1.5 years, and having the engine racing at 900-1,200 fast idle with no oil pressure for 3-5 seconds until pressure builds is NOT a better option. 90% of engine wear occurs at startup and most of that is cold starting much less cold starting after 1.5 years. I have been doing this technique on my 78 for 28 years after prolonged periods of not starting the engine-engine is perfect! Certainly will not hurt anything but may work the starter a bit-my starter is the OEM starter BTW!

Last edited by jb78L-82; Mar 12, 2011 at 11:31 AM.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 02:24 PM
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For the Nervous Nellies, (careful, Mr. Nasty!) GM never pre-oiled engines. They stuck it on the test stand and fired it up. Despite this horrid abuse, they usually ran only a few hundred thousand miles before needing an overhaul.[/QUOTE]

The engines were built using lubes and oils that had not "run" off the metal yet...
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by johnt365
I always remove the plugs and spray some fogging oil in each cyl. Then start it with a shot of starting fluid.
Any particular type/make of oil?
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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I once had a junkyark 350 sitting for twice that long and when I tore it down for a rebuild, there was still an oil film on the crank and rod bearings. Make sure you have fresh gas and start it!
Terry
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:08 PM
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Eh, no biggie, decades ago I started my mother's '63 Olds F85 after setting some 25 years in the garage, unused....

getting the running gear in order...carb/brakes/ign was more than the actual start/run....the oil and coolant were fine....aluminum engine, brass radiator and all....

drove it around for a month until sold....

even the auto tranny was fine....

but the underframe/chassis was gross with condensate rust....

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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by U17
The engines were built using lubes and oils that had not "run" off the metal yet...
And as tnovot noted (confirming my own observations) engines can sit for YEARS and still have oil clinging to the surfaces. If it hasn't dripped off by 3-5 years, it's not going to.
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