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Rear Main Install ?

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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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Default Rear Main Install ?

I'm wondering why in all the threads I've read on installing the rear main seal(Fel-Pro #BS-11829-1) in a 350 cid., there is no mention of installing the seal with a 3/8" offset from the flats of the bearing housing/block as is mentioned in the installation instructions?
Should I install it as the instructcions suggest or flush with the flats?
Just curious....
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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I think offsetting the mail seal with the block is a personal preference thing only. I have installed several seals on different engines, and I installed them even with the block parting lines, and no leaks so far. I also think that ensuring you place a very small dab of sealant on the seal ends really helps seal off oil leaks....
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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Rotate it so it's not flush. That's what I do, and what I've seen professional engine builders do.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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I offset with a small dab of black rtv on the ends. Works well for me.
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 07:46 PM
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I installed it as the instructions suggested with a small offset.
I also used the Fel-Pro 1 pc. dry gasket... Great Part!!!
I ran it for 1/2 hr. and no more leaks!
Sure was different than when I worked on cars for a living 35 years ago. The last time I did a rear main it was with a piece of braided material that had to be installed with a braided mesh tool with a TEE Handle.
Things sure have changed!!! FOR THE BETTER!!!
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Old Mar 12, 2011 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
I installed it as the instructions suggested with a small offset.
I also used the Fel-Pro 1 pc. dry gasket... Great Part!!!
I ran it for 1/2 hr. and no more leaks!
Here is a write up with pics of a rear main seal replacement. Any comments from those experienced doing this are welcome.

Last edited by G-Sting; Mar 12, 2011 at 09:55 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 11:24 PM
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Default Never leave a new installed seal dry!

U need to oil/lube the seal also. Most shade tree mechanics install their seals left dry and have drip again within a short time. A dry seal will wear out right on start-up.
Another miss is the rear main cap needs a specialty sealer to mate to the block. Surprising how many rear main cap go back on w/o sealer to block surface - that's another leak above the pan but looks like the rear seal is still leaking.

U have to sort things out for yourself here on the faceless internet. But really pays to read the instructions first and bounce it off the internet advice.

I have tried every time i respond to a rear seal post to explain offsetting the seal. It is easy to physically do but difficult to type out the explanation. And how do u explain using enough sealer on the matting ends but not leaving any sealer on the seals contact surface with the crank?

Thx for sharing,
cardo0
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 05:51 AM
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cardo0 is spot on with info.
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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G-Sting,
thanks for the write up and photos. I have a leak on one of mine and when I get to the point of replacing the gasket I plan on printing out your instructions and photos as a guide.

kdf
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by kdf1986
G-Sting,
thanks for the write up and photos. I have a leak on one of mine and when I get to the point of replacing the gasket I plan on printing out your instructions and photos as a guide.

kdf
kdf: I wish I could claim the write up here, but I cannot. Looks very good, though, from all the inputs here and from other threads on rear main seal install. Nice to have pictures, too. I may be doing mine in the next couple of weeks as well.

sly vette: Great to hear all went together well and no leaks!! Thanks for starting this thread. Good tips from all.
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 11:56 AM
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It is a real good idea to tap the 2 piece seal lightly to position it out of alignment with the flats. The 2piece seal can also be shelved for a 1piece. More difficult to install, but not bad.
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
U need to oil/lube the seal also. Most shade tree mechanics install their seals left dry and have drip again within a short time. A dry seal will wear out right on start-up.
Another miss is the rear main cap needs a specialty sealer to mate to the block. Surprising how many rear main cap go back on w/o sealer to block surface - that's another leak above the pan but looks like the rear seal is still leaking.
U have to sort things out for yourself here on the faceless internet. But really pays to read the instructions first and bounce it off the internet advice.

I have tried every time i respond to a rear seal post to explain offsetting the seal. It is easy to physically do but difficult to type out the explanation. And how do u explain using enough sealer on the matting ends but not leaving any sealer on the seals contact surface with the crank?

Thx for sharing,
cardo0
Great info and excellent link, thanks.

Question, what name sealer do you use on the cap as mentioned above?
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 07:30 PM
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Default Many sealers will work.

Originally Posted by 20mercury
Great info and excellent link, thanks.

Question, what name sealer do you use on the cap as mentioned above?
I used a locktite product i bought from PepBoys years ago but can't recall the designation. I believe anerobic is the term to look for. But really on the main cap u want something fairly thin that won't misalign the cap. I have seen permitex 2 used but it looked way to thick for this. U want something a little runny to fill the micro gaps and move out under bolt torque. I don't think RTV is any good for this but may work.

cardo0
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