Brake lights not working
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 20
From: NC
Brake lights not working
Sorry for starting yet another thread on the brake lights, but I have searched and could not find anything that helped.
Turn signals work.. hazards work fine
Brake switch is fine (confirmed 12V at both sides when pedal is pushed)
Bulbs are good (used ohm meter)
Ground is good on socket (used ohm meter)
On the harmonica connector, I disconnected and attempted to jumper the white to green or yellow.. Lights do not come on when pedal is pushed.
I have 12V on the white wire on the harmonica connector when the pedal is pushed.
Are there any other harness connectors that I can look at? I'm thinking my prob is a break in the yellow and green wires on its path to the real lights??? Or would this keep my hazards and turn signals from working also?
Turn signals work.. hazards work fine
Brake switch is fine (confirmed 12V at both sides when pedal is pushed)
Bulbs are good (used ohm meter)
Ground is good on socket (used ohm meter)
On the harmonica connector, I disconnected and attempted to jumper the white to green or yellow.. Lights do not come on when pedal is pushed.
I have 12V on the white wire on the harmonica connector when the pedal is pushed.
Are there any other harness connectors that I can look at? I'm thinking my prob is a break in the yellow and green wires on its path to the real lights??? Or would this keep my hazards and turn signals from working also?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 20
From: NC
I should have mentioned that. It's a 69, and I have a diagram. It shows a connector at the top of the page. Looking at it with fresh eyes, it appears same yellow or green wire supply power for stop and turn signals.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
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From: Florida
There is another connector for the rear harness under the dash at the A pillar.
But you are correct, if the turn and hazards work as you say, then the wiring, grounds and bulbs are good.
Pretty well leaves the turn switch.
But you are correct, if the turn and hazards work as you say, then the wiring, grounds and bulbs are good.
Pretty well leaves the turn switch.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 20
From: NC
Thanks. Not sure why my jumper of white to green and yellow did not work. Possible I did not have good contact while pushing the pedal. Or my helper that was watching the lights was looking at the wrong light
I hate to tear apart the column without confirming the switch is bad, but it's starting to look like that.
I hate to tear apart the column without confirming the switch is bad, but it's starting to look like that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,664
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From: columbia city in
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 20
From: NC
I think that I am going to order a turn signal switch, and do as suggested to try connecting it before installing. Looking at the symptoms and the wiring diagram, I am betting my attempt to jumper had something wrong.
Should I order a horn retaining clip also? I've seen the the get brittle and would hate for my day to be ruined by a $10 part
Guessing Ecklers is best place to get the switch?
Should I order a horn retaining clip also? I've seen the the get brittle and would hate for my day to be ruined by a $10 part
Guessing Ecklers is best place to get the switch?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
I plugged a new turn signal switch into my car and the brake lights still didn't work. I should have replaced the $7 brake light switch first.
If your column hasn't been apart in years, I would suggest having a new c-clip retainer to replace the original which will most likely crumble into several pieces when you try and remove it. Dealerships want something like $18 for it. It is available through most Corvette suppliers for a lot less. BTW, the plastic retainer is also an insulator that prevents the big telescoping spring from touching metal and your horn blowing all the time.
I just noticed that you have a 1969 (and I assume a T&T column). Standard (non-adjustable) columns do not use a c-clip retainer. Also, there is a good chance that your 1969 T&T column (that year only) may also not have a retainer. I believe that your toothed locking plate may have a rubber cover (or pad) on the plate that may act as an insulator in place of the retainer.
Jim
If your column hasn't been apart in years, I would suggest having a new c-clip retainer to replace the original which will most likely crumble into several pieces when you try and remove it. Dealerships want something like $18 for it. It is available through most Corvette suppliers for a lot less. BTW, the plastic retainer is also an insulator that prevents the big telescoping spring from touching metal and your horn blowing all the time.
I just noticed that you have a 1969 (and I assume a T&T column). Standard (non-adjustable) columns do not use a c-clip retainer. Also, there is a good chance that your 1969 T&T column (that year only) may also not have a retainer. I believe that your toothed locking plate may have a rubber cover (or pad) on the plate that may act as an insulator in place of the retainer.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; Mar 13, 2011 at 10:58 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,839
Likes: 20
From: NC
Huge thanks to all that suggested trying a new brake switch.. I was reluctant since the prior owner had a new switch..
Since I was getting 12V at the harmonica connector when the peddle was pushed, I was positive the switch was good.
Well - I WAS WRONG!!!. Picked up a new switch today, plugged it in and the brake lights started working again..
I decided to ohm out the old switch, and guess what.. it was measuring 600 ohms when closed. Simple ohms law was playing into the equation here and the brake switch was consuming the amps in the serial circuit it has with the lights. The new switch measured 1 ohm when closed.. This also explains why my white to green/yellow jumper was not working
So, lesson to later folks.. Measure the resistance on the switch.. even if the voltage looks good
Glad to have this one fixed!!!
Since I was getting 12V at the harmonica connector when the peddle was pushed, I was positive the switch was good.
Well - I WAS WRONG!!!. Picked up a new switch today, plugged it in and the brake lights started working again..
I decided to ohm out the old switch, and guess what.. it was measuring 600 ohms when closed. Simple ohms law was playing into the equation here and the brake switch was consuming the amps in the serial circuit it has with the lights. The new switch measured 1 ohm when closed.. This also explains why my white to green/yellow jumper was not working
So, lesson to later folks.. Measure the resistance on the switch.. even if the voltage looks good
Glad to have this one fixed!!!
