your Carb is too small. call a couple of cam company's tech lines for a cam spec for your application

 

You always want to keep your quench close to .040 total if possible. As you see a .022 difference in gasket thickness = about .5 difference in static compression. This is a lot and it would change the cam recommendation. I guessed at your numbers although I am probably very, very close if you have a stock bottom end. You will be able to run a higher DCR with tight quench (Thinner gasket) Higher DCR increases your volumetric efficiency. Volumetric efficiency creates horsepower.
You really need all the specs I asked for exactly to run good numbers. These guys giving you recommendations without this information are all guessing. As you see a .022 difference in gasket thickness = about .5 difference in static compression and that is one of several variables. Only you can collect and post this info for accurate calculations. The cam I recommended will be safe on pump fuel and work fine with a 3.55 and 4 speed. It might not be optimal for your specific engine because of variables in the numbers I used from actual. You can't safely go smaller if my numbers are right without possibly having detonation issues. You could go bigger but your DCR and Volumetric efficiency drops, your power band moves up, peak power drops.
The cam tech lines are usually manned by high school kids with a computer. I have never had any luck with them. The software comp sells is what they use but you can use that too. You will have the heads off. You can get all the info to accurately figure your exact compression and use your rod length and intake closing point to figure your DCR. If your quench is tight you could possibly go to a 8.5 to 1 DCR but I like to err on the conservative side and stay around 8.3 to 8.4 max. If you get the info needed post back and I will run the numbers for you.
PS. A 650 CFM carb will feed a 350 @ 6000 rpm with no problem. Operating range of XE276HR is 1900 to 5600 RPM.

 

63Mako thanks for all the great information,when I get the heads of which will be soon I;ll get the accurate information and post it.Cheers

 

P.S. I totally agree in regards to the size of carb I,ll be using and who,s on the end of the phones giving you info on those tech lines.Again good stuff

 

What would be a good ratio to use on a set of roller rockers,and also which is better aluminum or roller tip steel? Thanks.

 

63Mako when I pulled up info on that XE276HR cam it was for a Ford,I think the part number you were refering to was the XR276HR and the intake is at 230 not 224 .But anyway I think I,m going with that one unless after I pull the heads and get some more exact numbers theres drastic changes.Thanks again James.

 

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=159&sb=2
Check out the comp pro magnum 1.52 roller rockers. If you buy the K kit buy a pushrod length checker and don't open the pushrod package. Follow the directions on the length checker and compare to what they shipped. If ok use them, if not you have an unopened package to return to get the right length. Comp is good about returns. Billet cam core upgrade with iron distributor gear is money well spent.

 

63Mako That cam you referred to me the 276 , from what I pulled up it has a 224 intake instead of a 230, so does that mean the only way I could use this cam is if I use a .040 gasket ,and to get the better numbers that you had mentioned I should look for another came with a 230 intake.Just a bit confused here but I;ll get over it.

 

The link I posted is correct. 224 intake duration, 230 exhaust duration @ .050. The intake closing point is what changes your DCR. This is the correct intake closing point for your static compression with .040 total quench. Sorry, Typo.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ProductId=1095

 

hydraulic roller cam with hydraulic roller retrofit lifters: usually $700 or more.

hydraulic flat tappet cam with hydraulic flat tappet lifters: usually less than $200.

each has pros & cons; either can be & are used successfully.

 

Yes either can be used. I spend the extra $500 for piece of mind and extra lift and hp now. Just seen to many flat tappet failures. With this cam a cheap Rev limiter set @ 6000 RPM is a good idea if you have a tendency to push the engine. I would hate to be the one to recommend a flat tappet cam and the guy wipes a lobe at 1000 miles. At that point your savings over the roller are gone.

 

I agree,if you can afford it rollers are the way to go.I,ve learned through the years that you only get what you pay for.So 63Mako,the XR276HR is the way you think I should go with the 224 intake and 230 exhaust assuming the numbers I get Are close to what you figured.Thanks again for everyones input.

 

Will the XR276HR comp cam give me enough vaccum for the brakes etc?Its supposed to have a choppy idle.

 

Yes and Yes.

 

I just installed an /edelbrock performer eps intake (2701) with an Edelbrock 1406 carb, and the stock dual snorkel air cleaner worked with plenty of clearance. i used a holley .2" gasket/ spacer between the carb and air cleaner. Oh yeah, i have a 1979 L48.

 

Springer what did you use between the intake and the carb?And the 2 inch gasket/spacer seems a bit much to me.If you could post a picture of the set up I,d like to see it.Thanks for the info.:

 

Holley makes a .2'inch gasket. that is a little less than 1/4 " I purchased the gasket at Jeg's. A 1/2 gasket is too tall.Here is a link too it on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Holley-108-62-.../dp/B000BRJFDA

 

Springer what did you use between the intake manifold and the carb?

 

look at prior post

 

My K&N dropped base from summit racing