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From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Power Steering Control Valve
The PSCV has an alimite (grease) fitting on it. Will adding grease here cause the stud shaft to leak PS fluid, then stop leaking?
After adding grease thru a gun- a couple of pumps- the stud seal ( I assume) leaked about 3-4 tablespoons PS fluid, then abruptly stopped. Drove it for a few miles, still no leak.
Any "expert" opinions out there?
80 model.
Thanks,
m.j.
I heard you should never pump grease in that fitting. After initial greasing following assembly or rebuild, it should have a plug in there instead of a zerk.
If you are leaking PS fluid by the ball stud, you should rebuild the valve. If the fluid is making it down to that part of the control valve you have some bad seals. The grease fitting will add grease to the ball stud, cups and that half of the valve. I noticed you are in the Gonzales area, I am not far away in Prairieville if you need a hand some time just pm me.
Last edited by Sigforty; Mar 16, 2011 at 09:56 PM.
There is a specified amount of grease that is supposed to be put in the valve. Something like a couple of ounces IIRC. The grease you put in probably stopped the fluid leak temporarily but the valve will most likely start leaking again soon. There should be no fluid on the stud side of the valve.
You can look up Jim Shea's papers on corvettefaq.com for instructions on how to rebuild the valve. Rebuild kits only cost $15.00 or so.
There is a specified amount of grease that is supposed to be put in the valve. Something like a couple of ounces IIRC. The grease you put in probably stopped the fluid leak temporarily but the valve will most likely start leaking again soon. There should be no fluid on the stud side of the valve.
You can look up Jim Shea's papers on corvettefaq.com for instructions on how to rebuild the valve. Rebuild kits only cost $15.00 or so.
Rick B.
It's okay to hit it with a shot of grease now & then.... this does have a propensity to temporarily stop a fluid leak. I do it all the time on mine.
On the rebuilt units... if the internal "slider" parts of a rebuilt unit are worn, a rebuilt unit won't last. When they are rebuilt, the worn mechanical internals are not replaced because they are not available separately. So your chances with a rebuilt unit are 50/50... or worse.
My "take" on this is if your own is not worn out, rebuild it. Otherwise buy new. It's a PITA to replace this thing.... you really don't want to do it 2.... or 3 times... even if the rebuilt unit is guaranteed... you still have to do the work for free. Time is money.
Just a heads up.
I've rebuilt a lot of these over the years starting in the mid-70's.
Thanks for all the help guys. Think I'll just get a reman. unit and replace mine.
They are easy to rebuild, and you can remove it sitting next to it with the drivers front wheel removed. You really only need to do the outside half. It took me about and hour and a half start to finish on mine a couple of weeks ago. And it cost me 12 bucks, and no more steady leak! You Can Do it!!
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by 81pilot
They are easy to rebuild, and you can remove it sitting next to it with the drivers front wheel removed. You really only need to do the outside half. It took me about and hour and a half start to finish on mine a couple of weeks ago. And it cost me 12 bucks, and no more steady leak! You Can Do it!!
I am assuming you still had to remove the control valve half to rebuild, right? Or were you able to replace the seals, etc while still attached? Just looking for guidance . Thanks.
All I need is the "seal kit" offered at many auto parts places- its like 4 or 5 seals for ~ $20 ? Thanks for the help.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by Tom454
It's okay to hit it with a shot of grease now & then.... this does have a propensity to temporarily stop a fluid leak. I do it all the time on mine.
On the rebuilt units... if the internal "slider" parts of a rebuilt unit are worn, a rebuilt unit won't last. When they are rebuilt, the worn mechanical internals are not replaced because they are not available separately. So your chances with a rebuilt unit are 50/50... or worse.
My "take" on this is if your own is not worn out, rebuild it. Otherwise buy new. It's a PITA to replace this thing.... you really don't want to do it 2.... or 3 times... even if the rebuilt unit is guaranteed... you still have to do the work for free. Time is money.
Just a heads up.
I've rebuilt a lot of these over the years starting in the mid-70's.
Thanks for the insight. How difficult is it to rebuild ? I've changed out motors on these cars, replaced body mounts, transmissions, etc... Difficulty level is ~ ????
I am assuming you still had to remove the control valve half to rebuild, right? Or were you able to replace the seals, etc while still attached? Just looking for guidance . Thanks.
All I need is the "seal kit" offered at many auto parts places- its like 4 or 5 seals for ~ $20 ? Thanks for the help.
Took off the control valve half with the four hoses going to it, walked to my bench, slowly took it apart(remembering where every single peice went) and replaced everything in the kit, then went back to the car and reinstalled it, it is kind of finicky to get back on since you have to compress the spring to get the bolts to go in, but a little gentle effort and it goes on. I would say if you are mechanically inclined and have done other things like you said, this will be a fairly easy project. Maybe a 4 out out of 10. And much cheaper than a rebuilt or new unit.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Thanks 81Pilot. Gonna give it a try starting today. At my old azz pace of 58 years old, suspect it will be back working at the end of next week .. LMAO !
Thanks in advance.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
It took about an hour to remove from the car and tare it down on the bench. Parts store will have a seal kit in tomorrow a.m......around 9:00 am... about the time I'm getting up.... yep , this retirement life is something else, I tell ya!
It took about an hour to remove from the car and tare it down on the bench. Parts store will have a seal kit in tomorrow a.m......around 9:00 am... about the time I'm getting up.... yep , this retirement life is something else, I tell ya!
When its back together and back on the car, you will need to run the car and turn the wheels lock to lock till the air is out of the system,until the power steering returns(don't forget to add fluid) then with the front up and front wheels off and running turn the little nut on the end of the control valve one way then the other, Each direction will turn the wheels a different direction. Then place the nut exactly half way between the points where it just starts to turn the wheels each direction. That will balance the control valve. If it still wants to turn one direction when driving rebalance the valve. Also I saw where you posted the link to the instructions http://www.cssbinc.com/images/ads/ho...structions.pdf . I downloaded those and even printed them and put them in a binder. I had every intention of using them as a reference. While it is good information, I scanned it once, and never opened the book when I did mine, it really is fairly easy...replace old parts with new parts and reassemble. Good Luck!!
You should dissassemble and inspect the ball stud side of the valve while you have it apart. There are no seals on that side so you won't ruin anything. If the ball is worn or scored or if the liner that it rides in is scored you should rebuild that side of the valve also.
has the parts for the stud side. You won't find this kit at your local auto parts store. Past the giant link into a browser to see the pic.
I'm not sure that pic is entirely correct. When I bought the stud side rebuild kit it contained the liner for the stud also. The pic looks like it has a few random parts thrown in that don't even go on the stud side.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by 72LS1Vette
You should dissassemble and inspect the ball stud side of the valve while you have it apart. There are no seals on that side so you won't ruin anything. If the ball is worn or scored or if the liner that it rides in is scored you should rebuild that side of the valve also.
has the parts for the stud side. You won't find this kit at your local auto parts store. Past the giant link into a browser to see the pic.
I'm not sure that pic is entirely correct. When I bought the stud side rebuild kit it contained the liner for the stud also. The pic looks like it has a few random parts thrown in that don't even go on the stud side.
I think Muskegon Brake sells kits also.
Rick B.
Rick, that link is for a ball stud repair kit, but there are others out there that have the ball stud bushing too. It's the MEGA kit (my word) from Corvette Central I think. I'll try to post a link : http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5Z5Z50000050G#
click on the picture to see all the parts.
Are we gonna get on the admins bad side for posting links to maybe non-supporting vendors? At least one knows now there are 2 or more options.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by 81pilot
When its back together and back on the car, you will need to run the car and turn the wheels lock to lock till the air is out of the system,until the power steering returns(don't forget to add fluid) then with the front up and front wheels off and running turn the little nut on the end of the control valve one way then the other, Each direction will turn the wheels a different direction. Then place the nut exactly half way between the points where it just starts to turn the wheels each direction. That will balance the control valve. If it still wants to turn one direction when driving rebalance the valve. Also I saw where you posted the link to the instructions http://www.cssbinc.com/images/ads/ho...structions.pdf . I downloaded those and even printed them and put them in a binder. I had every intention of using them as a reference. While it is good information, I scanned it once, and never opened the book when I did mine, it really is fairly easy...replace old parts with new parts and reassemble. Good Luck!!
81- i did essentially the same, but that dang lil curly spring- i had forgot which direction it went back in- so I did some research and found this link you copied. Will use it tomorrow for the final rebuild. The Shop Manual has pics, but the link is 100 x's better.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Just completed the job, looks like its about 3..5 hours start to finish...Took my time as being "in a hurry" around here is a thing of the past.
I found the hardest part of this job was that dang grease rubber clamp thing at the ball stud. Took 20 minutes! Next hardest was getting the pitman arm to break loose from the ball stud. Other than that, it was a breeze..
Now that I'm spitting all this confidence, it'll probly start leaking again LOL....
Thanks for the insight. How difficult is it to rebuild ? I've changed out motors on these cars, replaced body mounts, transmissions, etc... Difficulty level is ~ ????
Sorry I did not respond.... but looks like you have it covered now. I changed my email address for the forum and it didn't work. Then all of a sudden I got a barrage of emails.... all late... and to the old address.... which I wasn't checking. Have to go in and change it again.
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