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Clutch dragging?

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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 01:41 AM
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Default Clutch dragging?

My 77 has started getting a bit hard to get into gear while stopped. Shifts fine with or without clutch, but sitting still running when I go to put it in gear some times/most times I have to use quite a bit of force to ...Ahem, "get it in"
I noticed what looks like a leaky rear main when I first got the car and am thinking this may be the problem, but my question would be... wouldn't my clutch slip if oil is the problem?

Edited: for lack of spelling skills

Last edited by Cactus Dave; Mar 17, 2011 at 01:58 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 07:30 AM
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If the clutch is dragging, you need to adjust the linkage so that it disengages further.

It would need to be drenched in oil for it to slip. Usually oil on the disc will cause it to chatter. Oil from a leaking main seal can't get to the clutch because the flywheel acts as an oil slinger.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
If the clutch is dragging, you need to adjust the linkage so that it disengages further.

It would need to be drenched in oil for it to slip. Usually oil on the disc will cause it to chatter. Oil from a leaking main seal can't get to the clutch because the flywheel acts as an oil slinger.
The clutch does not need adjusting, there is approximately 1/4 to 1/2 in. of free play in the pedal, before it hits... and 6 or more inches of clutch travel. If I adjusted the pedal any further it would be engaging it without touching it.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 07:42 AM
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I also thought possibly synchro's, but there is no grinding.. and it doesn't matter what gear I try to put it in when the car is not moving, it still takes a bit of force to get it in most times.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Cactus Dave
The clutch does not need adjusting, there is approximately 1/4 to 1/2 in. of free play in the pedal, before it hits... and 6 or more inches of clutch travel. If I adjusted the pedal any further it would be engaging it without touching it.
But are you sure it's disengaging completely? From your description, it sounds like it's not. Have you changed the disc, pressure plate or throwout bearing recently?
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
But are you sure it's disengaging completely? From your description, it sounds like it's not. Have you changed the disc, pressure plate or throwout bearing recently?
That is exactly what it feels like, but the clutch is adjusted properly.. hence my first post.
Edit: I have only owned the car a couple of months, and have no idea how old the clutch is. In my years of driving/working on cars I have used up many clutches, and slippage has always been the deciding factor on when I replaced it.

Last edited by Cactus Dave; Mar 17, 2011 at 07:50 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 08:13 AM
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Pilot bushing or bellhousing misalignment could be the problem.If it shifts good with the engine off the clutch is most likely not disengaging for some reason.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
Pilot bushing or bellhousing misalignment could be the problem.If it shifts good with the engine off the clutch is most likely not disengaging for some reason.
Well it definitely feels like it's not disengaging fully sometimes. But I can put the clutch pedal to the floor, put it in gear.. and let the clutch out a good 3 inches before the car starts to move. With the engine off it goes through the gears seamlessly. The other thing that has me baffled is that it doesn't act like this 100% of the time. Sometimes it goes in with no issues. I guess I should go ahead and pull the tranny and check things out, as it needs a new rear main seal any how.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 08:55 AM
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Default clutch

I had a weird problem like that years ago with my '74.
Long story short, the retainer clip on the clutch fork had broken off. The fork was not pivoting on the ball stud the way it should have. So the clutch would not disengage with the freeplay at the factory spec. (For your '77, that should be 1" to 1 1/2", measured at the middle of the pedal.) There are aftermarket guys (Zip Products, maybe) that will sell you a clip with a rivet, if you want to keep your origional fork.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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Start the car with the clutch in and trans in neutral. After a few seconds, put it in reverse. If it grinds, then your clutch isnt disengaging all the way.
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 02:12 PM
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Hard to diagnosis something over internet and phone, but what you are describing is a symptom of a bad clutch. If the tranny shifts fine when the engine is off or going down the road you can rule out the clutch. It does not take much for a clutch to stick to keep you from shifting the trans while stopped with engine running. I am working on a 65 here in the shop that had the exact same issue.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Cactus Dave
Well it definitely feels like it's not disengaging fully sometimes. But I can put the clutch pedal to the floor, put it in gear.. and let the clutch out a good 3 inches before the car starts to move. With the engine off it goes through the gears seamlessly. The other thing that has me baffled is that it doesn't act like this 100% of the time. Sometimes it goes in with no issues. I guess I should go ahead and pull the tranny and check things out, as it needs a new rear main seal any how.
Something is causing the input shaft to spin with the engine running ,pilot bushing and clutch disc are the only 2 things touching the input shaft on the engine end.Good luck
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
Something is causing the input shaft to spin with the engine running ,pilot bushing and clutch disc are the only 2 things touching the input shaft on the engine end.Good luck
Good point, it could also be a seized pilot bearing.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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Also, if one of the disc pads is deteriorating, a small piece, (you know, a cling-on so to speak), will cause the disc to rotate even though the p/p is fully disengaged. Problem is usually associated with a cowboy right foot.
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