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The lip seals "flat spot" when the car sits a lot. The weight of the pistons pushing down on them without use for long periods of time is the culprit. 2000 miles in 5 years is an indication that you may be a victim of flatspotting. The more you drive it, the better they work. My C3 flatspotted and I drove it anyways... pulled hard to one side... I just kept driving it every day for a month (fighting the brakes with the steering wheel) and the brake fluid burned off the pads and the lip seals fixed themselves, and the car brakes perfectly now. I don't recommend this, but it gives you a little more insight into the "lip seal" phenomena.
If you drive the car regularly, and have true rotors, lip seals work fine... given you bleed a DOT 3 system regularly.
All seals deteriorate over time and have to be replaced eventually.
Don't blame the fluid.... that's a witch hunt.
Either works just fine.
Thanks I know too many people that use dot 5 in cars and motorcycles that I was having trouble with blaming the fluid.Im going to figure this out if it kills me.I just want to get it fixed so I can get some use out of the vintageair system and new radiator I put on this past winter.
I'm going to try and install the calibers next weekend.normally I work 4 10 hour days and Im off 3 days during the week but Im going to required training at work.so for the next 4 weeks I will only be off on weekends.cuts into my spare time.
Here is what I went through trying for a hard pedal.
I poured a lot more fluid than you have to date.
Install new hoses I used rubber type. Now there are some who willo disagree with this but,
Wrap a cloth around the lines, start at rear hoses. clamp both hoses. test pedal. If soft try samething on front. If hard release one clamp. Should indicate which side has the problem. I had a caliper that leaked internally, did not show on the outside seal. This solved my problem after 5 gallons of fluid. And dozens of forum posts.
Its hard to believe that they deteriorated with
Less than 2000 miles on them but that's over a period of 5 years sitting most of the time.the thing that gets me is I couldn't get a hard pedal even after using the power bleeder.If the lip seal was the problem how is keeping me from getting the air sitting static.I bleed the brakes with the power bleeder and without even driving the car it had a bad pedal.I would gladly put a set of oringed calibers on it if I knew it would take care of the problem.
The lip seals on my fronts are 25 years old and this car sits quite a bit. They are still perfect. So yours to go bad in 5 years seems odd.
I just rebuilt my rear calipers as the lip seals in them leaked after 25 years! Replaced them with O Ring Seals. should be good for another 25 years! LOL
I feel your pain.I just ordered 4 new o ringed calibers.I was going to put them on eventually so I figured that would eliminate the calibers.outside of the hard lines that will mean eveything will be new.I bet I have spent a 100 bucks in dot. 5 fluid alone.
I feel your pain.I just ordered 4 new o ringed calibers.I was going to put them on eventually so I figured that would eliminate the calibers.outside of the hard lines that will mean eveything will be new.I bet I have spent a 100 bucks in dot. 5 fluid alone.
I have DOT5 in my 66... since around 1980... I have gone through 2 sets of seals. I drain the fluid, run it through a filter to get the seal particles out, and re-use it. I have had no issues with the DOT5 fluid doing this. It was clear as new. It doesn't absorb water the way DOT3 does... so unless it gets contaminated with something else, it's re-useable. My brakes work fine... no issues.
Well I got back to the brakes today.I installed the set of oringed calibers I bought last week.I went ahead and left the factory bleeders on the new calibers.I installed the power bleeder and filled it up with dot 5 fluid.I let it set until I couldn't see anymore tiny bubbles coming to the top and pumped it up.It started out with large bubbles and the down to the small ones.I repeated this several times.after filling it up 5 times and bleeding the brakes for 4 hours I could still see a tiny bubble out the bleed lines every so often.I ran out of time and put the lid on the mastercylinder and cranked up the car to move it over.I can lock the brakes up but still dose it within and inch of the floor.still not as firm as I would like it.I guess I will try gravity bleedeing next time.somtimes I think this power bleeder is inducing air into the fluid.even the factory shop manuals state not to use one with out a diaphram in it.
Last edited by rugerm44; Mar 26, 2011 at 07:53 PM.