Carb - Fuel Line help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Hanover Pennsylvania
Carb - Fuel Line help
The 74 I bought has a 350 from a 1973 truck I believe. The carburetor is a Quadrajet. On the stock motor, the fuel line comes out the side. On this carb, it points straight forward. I would like to buy a fuel line, and if I knew what vehicle used this carb, I could probably order one. I looked at a catalog for a 1973 truck and it looked the same as the 74 Corvette. Here are pictures of my carb.
Yes, there is no wire connected to the water temperature sender. I have a loose wire that should go to the alternator too. There are dead end wires all over this engine compartment. I did get the horn to work. :-)
Yes, there is no wire connected to the water temperature sender. I have a loose wire that should go to the alternator too. There are dead end wires all over this engine compartment. I did get the horn to work. :-)
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,657
Likes: 3,117
From: Shamong, NJ
I'm pretty sure all Chevrolet Q-Jets had the right side fuel inlet. Pontiac, Buick, etc., used the front feed Q-Jets.
I don't think you will find any pre-bent pump to carb line, that will work with a front feed Q-Jet and a small block Chevy.
I don't think you will find any pre-bent pump to carb line, that will work with a front feed Q-Jet and a small block Chevy.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 297
Likes: 3
Metal fuel ine for front inlet Quadrojet.
Go to any auto parts store, buy a piece of 3/8" brake line with flared fittings on each end, (a long piece), use a small tubing bender and you can make a factory looking line for a few dollars. Use the flared end and fitting to screw into the carb, and cut the flare off the other end and use a compression fitting and adapter to screw into the fuel pump, or get a flaring tool and flare the other end at the correct length to attach to the fuel pump. I have made many of these and it is fairly easy if you measure and take your time.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
Follow Buddy's advice and make one. A $10 tube bender and a brake line of adequate length (plus fittings, of course) will get that job done. I highly recommend against using any kind of flexible (rubber) line on the pressurized side of the fuel pump. A failure of that line will shoot fuel all over the engine while it is in operation
. Very dangerous condition.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Hanover Pennsylvania
Wow, lots of good replies. I may buy a bender and a flare tool and try it myself. I don't like the rubber hose that the PO installed. I have other projects that I will want the tools anyhow. I thought it would be easiest if the part was already prebent to buy one for this configuration.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 174
Likes: 0
From: Hanover Pennsylvania
I haven't tried to figure out what the manifold is. I looked up what I could see of the engine stamping. One of the letters was very faint. I decoded it to being a 350 out of a 1973 truck. The manifold has a bunch of different casting numbers on it and it says GMC so maybe it was a GMC truck. This car hasn't been on the road in a number of years. The PO had it for 2 and did nothing with it. Before him, the 2nd PO installed the rebuilt motor and trans. Installed a lot of parts like ball joints and painted (POR15?) the underside and frame. The windshield frame as the same balck paint on it, so the window was out. It looks like they were trying to get it on the road but didn't quite get there. It does not even have an old inspection sticker on it. I thought I got a deal, but in retrospect, it still has a way to go. My goal is to just get it safe to rumble around this summer.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
I agree with those that suggested getting a length of brake line and bending your own. Start with a longer than required piece and you'll only need to put one flare on it. The tight 90's will be the hardest part.
What I would recommend however is to start first with a metal coat hangar. Open it up and get it as straight as you can to begin with and then start bending it until you get it to fit perfectly. This shouldn't be too hard and of course the hangar bends easily in your hands. Once you have the coat hangar fitting perfectly, then using the correct tools, start bending the brake/fuel line. It will save you a lot of frustration. A lot of fuel (and brake) lines will come with a double flare. Since you're fuel system is a relatively low pressure system, you don't really need to put a double flare on this line.
Good luck... GUSTO
What I would recommend however is to start first with a metal coat hangar. Open it up and get it as straight as you can to begin with and then start bending it until you get it to fit perfectly. This shouldn't be too hard and of course the hangar bends easily in your hands. Once you have the coat hangar fitting perfectly, then using the correct tools, start bending the brake/fuel line. It will save you a lot of frustration. A lot of fuel (and brake) lines will come with a double flare. Since you're fuel system is a relatively low pressure system, you don't really need to put a double flare on this line.
Good luck... GUSTO
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,575
Likes: 1
From: Tuttle OK
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Good advice Gusto.
I wish I thought of that when I made mine. I wouldn't have needed to make it twice.
Or, just get a bender and flaring tool and have at it.
I wish I thought of that when I made mine. I wouldn't have needed to make it twice.
Or, just get a bender and flaring tool and have at it.
