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*Question About The CS-144 Alternator*

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 08:09 PM
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Default *Question About The CS-144 Alternator*

I was wondering if the 140 amp version is enough? I have dual electric fans and a powerful stereo. Is there any harm in stepping up to a 200 amp version?
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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Won't hurt a thing as long as your wiring size is increased also.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 07:46 AM
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I have dual electric fans and an amp. My CS144, 140 amp alternator works fine even at idle.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 11:50 AM
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When I talked to the guys at Quickstart aka. www.alternatorparts.com, they recommended I stick with a WELL BUILT CS144 140amp with the HD 200 amp regulator/rectifier. They said they do build a 200amp CS144 but the additional heat associated with it can lead to future issues, also I believe they told me the 200amp builds the power later (more rpms) and actually has less at idle then the regular 140 amp(although this is from my memory so.... )

I do know that I went through two "Part Store" CS144s and neither would keep up with all of my electrical draw at idle. SO I had Alternatorparts.com build me one of their CS144HD with AC Delco parts and the good rectifier/regulator. Now I have no less then 13.3v at 800rpm idle at FULL ELECTRICAL LOAD....(headlights, hi beams, AC on HIGH, Lincoln Mark 8 fan running, stereo w/ AMP blasting, foot on the brakes(brake lights).... Been on for a couple thousand miles now, no problems at all.... Around $205 shipped.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
When I talked to the guys at Quickstart aka. www.alternatorparts.com, they recommended I stick with a WELL BUILT CS144 140amp with the HD 200 amp regulator/rectifier. They said they do build a 200amp CS144 but the additional heat associated with it can lead to future issues, also I believe they told me the 200amp builds the power later (more rpms) and actually has less at idle then the regular 140 amp(although this is from my memory so.... )

I do know that I went through two "Part Store" CS144s and neither would keep up with all of my electrical draw at idle. SO I had Alternatorparts.com build me one of their CS144HD with AC Delco parts and the good rectifier/regulator. Now I have no less then 13.3v at 800rpm idle at FULL ELECTRICAL LOAD....(headlights, hi beams, AC on HIGH, Lincoln Mark 8 fan running, stereo w/ AMP blasting, foot on the brakes(brake lights).... Been on for a couple thousand miles now, no problems at all.... Around $205 shipped.
I bought my 140 amp standard CS 144 from national quick start as well 2 years ago and it has been perfect. I mentioned the issue of "amping up" standard alternators on other posts multiple times not being a good idea based on what the experts have told me as well (not necessarily forum members but the folks at national quick start) as my own personal experience with a 120 amp 10SI replacement alternator-it worked fine but the high amperage really only kicks in at higher RPM over idle and the case is not designed to handle that type of amperage which creates tremendous heat, killing the internals. The CS-144 140 amp charges very strong at idle and runs cool with the cooling fan. I can run all the accesories including my 400 watt hella euro halogens through the stock wiring (25 amp relay on the 100 watt high beams directly to the alternator "bat" terminal) with zero issues for 25 years.

Do you run all your high amp accesories through relays directly off the alternator or do you run them through the fuse box? Stock wiring or did you rewire the fusible links?
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
I bought my 140 amp standard CS 144 from national quick start as well 2 years ago and it has been perfect. I mentioned the issue of "amping up" standard alternators on other posts multiple times not being a good idea based on what the experts have told me as well (not necessarily forum members but the folks at national quick start) as my own personal experience with a 120 amp 10SI replacement alternator-it worked fine but the high amperage really only kicks in at higher RPM over idle and the case is not designed to handle that type of amperage which creates tremendous heat, killing the internals. The CS-144 140 amp charges very strong at idle and runs cool with the cooling fan. I can run all the accesories including my 400 watt hella euro halogens through the stock wiring (25 amp relay on the 100 watt high beams directly to the alternator "bat" terminal) with zero issues for 25 years.

Do you run all your high amp accesories through relays directly off the alternator or do you run them through the fuse box? Stock wiring or did you rewire the fusible links?



*My lincoln MK8 fan gets power off of the alternator stud, runs through a 75 amp bosch relay and a 50 amp circuit breaker, all with 8 ga wiring.

*My stereo amp goes directly to the battery(pos/neg) with 4 ga wire and a big a$$ fuse...(I don't recall the amperage of the fuse)

*My stereo head unit is getting 12V switched power from the factory radio wires and it gets 12V constant power from the factory cigarette lighter orange wire.

*My MSD 6AL is getting power from the starter lug and is triggered on with a 12v ign slot on the fuse box. I believe it was 10 ga wiring that came with the MSD harness. It has an inline fuse. Ground wire runs to the frame.

*My Vintage air gets 12v power and ground directly from the battery but it has its own relays/ECU on it.

*My CHARGE wire from the alternator stud is 8 ga and runs to a 12 ga fusible link wire at the starter. I also run an additional 8 ga charge wire with 12 ga fusible link all the way back to the battery.

Everything is else stock wiring and relays. Everything works on my car, even the door ajar lights and odd ball indicator lights (seat belt, hi beam etc etc)..

Here is a few pics of the wiring/relays etc...




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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 04:11 PM
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That's what I do as well. As long as you run new wire for high amperage accessories, no need to rewire the whole damn car!!!! as some suggest! Thanx.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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MY CS-144 works fine at idles with the headlights and dual 13in Spal which draw about 50 amps alone.

The only thing I don't like about them is they don't like high RPM, mine blew at 7000RPM at the crank and IIRC the guy that fixed it said the alternator turned at least twice as fast as the motor so my aleternator blew at 14,000 RPM's
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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Good info
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