Cleaning rusty bolts
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
If they are not too rusty you can put them in a metal pot and use ordinary vinegar and let it sit overnight, put a cover on the pot 
This goes on all my posts: Please report back to those who helped you the final outcome of your initial post
This goes on all my posts: Please report back to those who helped you the final outcome of your initial post
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,315
Likes: 4,420
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi,
Since I was interested in re-using the original bolts when possible, I cleaned them on a wire wheel/bench grinder, (yes, they really will shoot all the way into next week) and then re-plated them... zinc, zinc phosphate, manganese phosphate, and black oxide. A few 'natural' with clear on them.
A LOT of work and time, but for me time is cheap.
Regards,
Alan
All original fasteners.
Since I was interested in re-using the original bolts when possible, I cleaned them on a wire wheel/bench grinder, (yes, they really will shoot all the way into next week) and then re-plated them... zinc, zinc phosphate, manganese phosphate, and black oxide. A few 'natural' with clear on them.
A LOT of work and time, but for me time is cheap.
Regards,
Alan
All original fasteners.
Instructor
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: tacoma wa
Hi,
Since I was interested in re-using the original bolts when possible, I cleaned them on a wire wheel/bench grinder, (yes, they really will shoot all the way into next week) and then re-plated them... zinc, zinc phosphate, manganese phosphate, and black oxide. A few 'natural' with clear on them.
A LOT of work and time, but for me time is cheap.
Regards,
Alan
All original fasteners.
Since I was interested in re-using the original bolts when possible, I cleaned them on a wire wheel/bench grinder, (yes, they really will shoot all the way into next week) and then re-plated them... zinc, zinc phosphate, manganese phosphate, and black oxide. A few 'natural' with clear on them.
A LOT of work and time, but for me time is cheap.
Regards,
Alan
All original fasteners.
very nice, rewarding isnt it? my time is not cheap unless I am working for my self or Beer is provided. lol Bad hobby for anyone that doesnt want to invest the time unless you just want to show off some one elses work.
the reply of tumblers beat up the threads is correct but I have been known to use a vibra tumbler (used for cleaning brass for reloading) with a corn husk media. not too agressive but makes a good finish to stick paint to.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,111
Likes: 32
From: Damascus MD
I have had outstanding results in using Bill Hirsch Rust remover which I believe is the same as evaporust.
Mine were not badly rusted at all though. I did experiment with a badly bolt or two from my long gone GTO. The rust remover worked great. Then I sent most out for re-plating. I used Richard Fortier and he did an out standing job. He did Cad and Gray Phosphate for me.
He did my original hod latches as well. The finish is about perfect for the purist.
Bill
Mine were not badly rusted at all though. I did experiment with a badly bolt or two from my long gone GTO. The rust remover worked great. Then I sent most out for re-plating. I used Richard Fortier and he did an out standing job. He did Cad and Gray Phosphate for me.
He did my original hod latches as well. The finish is about perfect for the purist.
Bill
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Clifton VA
I have a large vibratory -Not A Tumbler!! As stated above it beats up the threads. It is slow but can keep going for days. Also does double duty with walnut shell for cleaning reloading brass. It is a great way to polish SS at a fraction of the cost of buying them that way. Different media required for different applications. Black Diamond Blasting Sand is quickest for rust but you want to check often to make sure you are not loosing thread edge or marking detail.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Mooresville In
I wire wheel all of mine then end up buying something that comes with new hardware. But the most effective method I have found is clean them and use POR 15. If the bolt is still reusable POR makes and keeps it looking good. As a trial and error method I spent one full day cleaning nuts and bolts, being self employed it cost me well over $600 so really unless your just have the time it is much more efficient to buy new. If you buy new parts most suppliers will add hardware for an affordable price or at least tell you thread pitch and length required
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
If you go to some of the gun supply sites you can find your own Parkerizing solution. Put it in a stainless pan and bring it to temp and do your own coating. It's durable enough for guns, so it is durable enough for nuts and bolts.
The stuff I use is called Radocy original gray. Directions are to add 4oz to a gallon of water and bring to 160 degrees suspend in the solution until the color you want is there. Degrease first. I glass bead first.
The stuff I use is called Radocy original gray. Directions are to add 4oz to a gallon of water and bring to 160 degrees suspend in the solution until the color you want is there. Degrease first. I glass bead first.
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,959
Likes: 156
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Vinegar X 1 week for real bad ones.
Before:
After a few days....the pipe was really corroded.
It eventually took all the rust off but the pitting was irreparable.
Before:
After a few days....the pipe was really corroded.
It eventually took all the rust off but the pitting was irreparable.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
I went the extreme route because I wanted to keep the correct original fasteners wherever possible. After making a detailed list of what goes where (types, sizes, threads, lengths, head markings, finishes, etc) and taking many pictures, I soaked them in degreaser and rinsed/dried. Then I wire wheeled them on a bench grinder. Then I glass bead blasted them, using a basket. Then I separated them by finish and sent them off in buckets for plating, one for zinc and one for black oxide. That is the only economical way to have it done. Afterwards I sorted them out and put them in plastic bags...marked as to where they go. Thankfully I needed to replace very few, because correct replacement fasteners are very expensive and hard to find.
This is route I'm considering and have read where others have done similiar but its tedious. I've played with black phosphate here but with modest results.
Where did you get them plated and what was the cost?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 3,079
Likes: 315
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
what a mess to sort out) with others from a local vette shop, who sent them to KPC Southern Industries in Pompano Beach. I believe they charge by the batch...in other words, probably $100 for a box of cadmium plating, then another $100 for the other box of black oxide. That is why you should try to get it "all done" in one shot...more bang for your buck.
