Door leveling problems, and mirror install Please help.
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Wellesley Island New York
Door leveling problems, and mirror install Please help.
I'm having a ton of trouble leveling my doors. Both passenger and driver side doors. The gap between the door and the fenders at the bottom is almost non existent. The top of both doors has a pretty big gap. I have the door shims, and tried different combos on the passenger side, and haven't used any on the drivers side yet. If anyone knows maybe the standard number of shims you have to use on the top and bottom, and maybe I can work from there. This is a concern because it seems the bottom of the door is chipping the fiberglass on the fenders. Please help.
Also if anyone knows... I have been trying to install the drivers side mirror. There are two holes on the outside of the door, and 1 hole on the inside.. How am I suppose to bolt the mirror bracket on? It boggles my mind. Thank
Also if anyone knows... I have been trying to install the drivers side mirror. There are two holes on the outside of the door, and 1 hole on the inside.. How am I suppose to bolt the mirror bracket on? It boggles my mind. Thank
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Kingston Ontario
Checking body panel gaps, confirm the condition of all eight body mounts. Warn-out body mounts will contribute to your symptoms.
Which mirror do you have? Normally; they have a seal between the mirror and body and two studs attached to the mirror, tightened by two nuts on the inside of the door panel.
Which mirror do you have? Normally; they have a seal between the mirror and body and two studs attached to the mirror, tightened by two nuts on the inside of the door panel.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: New Hill NC
I'm having a ton of trouble leveling my doors. Both passenger and driver side doors. The gap between the door and the fenders at the bottom is almost non existent. The top of both doors has a pretty big gap. I have the door shims, and tried different combos on the passenger side, and haven't used any on the drivers side yet. If anyone knows maybe the standard number of shims you have to use on the top and bottom, and maybe I can work from there. This is a concern because it seems the bottom of the door is chipping the fiberglass on the fenders. Please help.
Also if anyone knows... I have been trying to install the drivers side mirror. There are two holes on the outside of the door, and 1 hole on the inside.. How am I suppose to bolt the mirror bracket on? It boggles my mind. Thank
Also if anyone knows... I have been trying to install the drivers side mirror. There are two holes on the outside of the door, and 1 hole on the inside.. How am I suppose to bolt the mirror bracket on? It boggles my mind. Thank
As for the mirror base. The 69 would have had a chrome mirror mounted with a base that screws into a plate under the body fiberglass. Two screws. If it has another kind of mirror, something has been changed.
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Wellesley Island New York
Yes it is the chrome mirror. I must be missing the plate that is inside the door to bolt the bracket to.. As far as the body movement, being the problem, you have lost me, please explain, or maybe give a fix for it? I think I know what you are saying but im not for sure. Thanks again
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
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From: Kingston Ontario
If you haven't already used the search function, search c3 tech/performance for body mounts.
You have four mount locations on either side of the car. If the gap is large at the top of the doors it would indicate a crushed or collapsed mount.
IE: Drivers side. Count 1-2-3-4 from the front to rear. #1 is immediately behind the front wheel, #2 (at rocker panel) in-behind the kick-panel drivers foot well, #3 (at rocker panel) just forward of the rear wheel well behind a small access panel, and #4 up and to the rear of the rear wheel. In your case pay attention to the #1 and #4. Check both sides.
You have four mount locations on either side of the car. If the gap is large at the top of the doors it would indicate a crushed or collapsed mount.
IE: Drivers side. Count 1-2-3-4 from the front to rear. #1 is immediately behind the front wheel, #2 (at rocker panel) in-behind the kick-panel drivers foot well, #3 (at rocker panel) just forward of the rear wheel well behind a small access panel, and #4 up and to the rear of the rear wheel. In your case pay attention to the #1 and #4. Check both sides.
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From: Wellesley Island New York
I did a search but couldn't find anything relevant. How will I know if these are bad? Is it something that I will be able to tell by looking? The number 1 mount is behind the kick plate? Like in behind the vent? How difficult are these to replace? It kinda seems like a major problem. When I bought this rolling chassis, I was told the frame was restored. If this is the case I may have to go back to the seller.. I'm assuming the shims are only used to pull the door out or in to level against the rocker panel? Thanks for your help so far.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
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From: Kingston Ontario
Borrowed this diagram from a supporting vendor. (corvette central)
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....50g~Z5Z5Z5PFR2
Shows the location of the mounts. You need only look at the mounts and if damaged it should be very apparent. When the body was lowered back onto the frame, the mounts should have been shimmed to adjust the body gaps at the doors.
#1 mount is accessible from the engine compartment just forward of the firewall. #2 is behind the removable plastic kickplate.(ie: under the dash, left of left drivers leg, location of interior speaker at floor, etc.)
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....50g~Z5Z5Z5PFR2
Shows the location of the mounts. You need only look at the mounts and if damaged it should be very apparent. When the body was lowered back onto the frame, the mounts should have been shimmed to adjust the body gaps at the doors.
#1 mount is accessible from the engine compartment just forward of the firewall. #2 is behind the removable plastic kickplate.(ie: under the dash, left of left drivers leg, location of interior speaker at floor, etc.)
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Wellesley Island New York
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Wellesley Island New York
I checked for the #1 mount... I looked down through the engine compartment. I think I saw it, riveted to the body and bolted to the frame? If thats it looks good. The number 2.. Is it the same compartment that you bolt the bottom door hinge into, but on the bottom facing straight down bolting to the frame? If thats it, doesn't look good.. If I am looking at the right thing, there doesn't appear to be any shims at all under the mounts. Hope I'm on the right track.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
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From: New Hill NC
I checked for the #1 mount... I looked down through the engine compartment. I think I saw it, riveted to the body and bolted to the frame? If thats it looks good. The number 2.. Is it the same compartment that you bolt the bottom door hinge into, but on the bottom facing straight down bolting to the frame? If thats it, doesn't look good.. If I am looking at the right thing, there doesn't appear to be any shims at all under the mounts. Hope I'm on the right track.
Just looked at the profile, Is it the 69 coupe?
Last edited by wombvette; Mar 27, 2011 at 04:21 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,160
Likes: 4,236
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi P,
The #1 mount you can see by just opening the hood.
The # 2 mount requires that the plastic kick panel be removed on each side of the interior foot-wells.
The #3 can only be seen if you remove the small access panel in the front of the rear wheel well. 4 screws.
The number 4 mount can be seen on the frame behind the rear wheel.
Here's 2 pictures of the frame showing the position of the mounts. You can see the cushions/spacers, and shims, too.
I hope this begins to give you some info to determine what's going on with your gaps.
Regards,
Alan
PS: I, too, am wondering about very worn hinge pins.
First 3 mounts
Last mount
The #1 mount you can see by just opening the hood.
The # 2 mount requires that the plastic kick panel be removed on each side of the interior foot-wells.
The #3 can only be seen if you remove the small access panel in the front of the rear wheel well. 4 screws.
The number 4 mount can be seen on the frame behind the rear wheel.
Here's 2 pictures of the frame showing the position of the mounts. You can see the cushions/spacers, and shims, too.
I hope this begins to give you some info to determine what's going on with your gaps.
Regards,
Alan
PS: I, too, am wondering about very worn hinge pins.
First 3 mounts
Last mount
Last edited by Alan 71; Mar 27, 2011 at 04:37 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Algonac Michigan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
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From: New Hill NC
Problem with the hinge pin theory is that he says the doors are pinched at the bottom and open at the top. Worn pins might cause wide front gaps, but the rears would closed at the top. That is not what he said, unless he described it wrong.
Also if it is a coupe, little change is made by shimming. The framework is too stiff. My guess is that there are some previous body damages.
Also if it is a coupe, little change is made by shimming. The framework is too stiff. My guess is that there are some previous body damages.
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Wellesley Island New York
Thats what I'm thinking is that there is previous body damage. The mounts I found look ok. When I open the drivers door, there is some wiggle, that I might have to try and replace, however the passenger door has no wiggle at all. A little back story on this car, I bought it as a rolling chassis, all the pieces of the car were literally in a series of 5 gallon buckets. I was assured that all the pieces were there. Obviously this is never true. He said he was selling it because of the shoddy paint job (he bought it thinking it was primed) Now the hole rear end is new. The frame was never blasted and/or painted. Now if there was body damage, how serious of an issue is this? Honestly? My original goal was to put it together and once I got it running switch out parts as I got the money for them. Making it a far more bearable project. I'm in the military so I'm not loaded with cash. I bought this as my dream car, and only wish to see it up and running and make changes over the years to make it the way I want. Did I invest in a money pit? Hope not.. Thoughts?
Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 533
Likes: 18
From: Boca Raton Florida
If the gap at the rear edge of the door is even and the hinges are not worn, I think the problem may be the front surround. If the radiator and its mount have been removed, you may have to adjust the position of the mount.
Without going to the trouble of taking the radiator mount out again, just try lifting the front end and slide some shims between the mount and the crossmember. That should close the gap at the top of the door. If the bottom stays tight, you may have to adjust the door to the rear.
The radiator mount is prone to rust and rot so the mount may be the actual problem.
Without going to the trouble of taking the radiator mount out again, just try lifting the front end and slide some shims between the mount and the crossmember. That should close the gap at the top of the door. If the bottom stays tight, you may have to adjust the door to the rear.
The radiator mount is prone to rust and rot so the mount may be the actual problem.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 167
Likes: 8
From: Blythewood S.C.
St. Jude Donor '14
Had a similar problem with my '78 when I first got it. Replaced all the pins and bushings on the hinges and it fixed my allignment problem. Did this several years ago and just noticed the other week that the pins have a tendency to back out. Keep an eye on them.
