Project Frankenstein's Vette
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Gilbert AZ
I'm thinking possible engine fire at some point in it's life that got into the passenger compartment. That's the only reason I could think to replace the dash,steering column and console with one from a later model. Is the rear half of the car still 68?(back-up lights in the lower valance). At any rate, if you got it cheap, it looks like a cool project, and not a bad starting point. I've seen much more challenging projects, but maybe not with that many non year parts.
I think the car may have been built by a local guy here. I got a few C4 parts from him when I had my 93. He always has craigslist posts up like this one: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2296886216.html
He does literally have a forest of fiberglass. I haven't gone to him for parts yet on this car, because he tends to charge a bit much. He restores factory original stuff, and puts the corvette tax on them.
Again thanks for all the help here guys. I cleaned up the valve covers and intake manifold last night. I also ordered a fel-pro gasket kit from summit, hopefully it comes in by the weekend. Doesn't much matter though because after investigating my Carb last night I found that I'm missing some of the linkage to the choke assembly. I guess that explains why it was so hard to start and keep idling cold. So I'll either pick up a different carb, or maybe take my qjet to that guy steve and see if he can get the linkage pieces for me.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Gilbert AZ
Update
Well i repainted the intake manifold, valve covers, and thermostat housing. Reinstalled them. I had pictures, but photobucket seems to be down. I also picked up an edelbrock 750 off ebay, unfortunately it doesnt clear the hood though with the adapter. Need a big block hood with more clearance. Anyone in So. Cal. willing to trade hoods? lol.
Should have it running again tomorrow. Then it's time to start chasing down all the gremlins. Electrical, gauges, vacuum. Should be fun.
I'll get the pics up as soon as photobucket comes back up.
Should have it running again tomorrow. Then it's time to start chasing down all the gremlins. Electrical, gauges, vacuum. Should be fun.
I'll get the pics up as soon as photobucket comes back up.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,337
Likes: 14
From: Norfolk VA
First I have to start with a disclaimer:
If you don't like hacking and modifying then don't read this thread.
I'm military with a wife and kid, therefor i don't have much money, so updates will probably be quite far a part. Due to lack of said funds I'll be doing what it takes to make things work. I'm not building a show car by any stretch. I'm after function over form. I just want to make this car run and have fun.
With that out of the way...
I got rid of my 93 Ruby, and picked up a "68" with a 454. I put that in quotations because I believe the chassis is about the only thing left that is from 68.
The further i dig the more I find. So here's to a grand adventure.
Here she is the day I brought her home.
Not pretty, but I'm going to do what I can.
first thing I decided to break into was the issue of the passenger window not working. Also the switches had fallen down inside the e-brake housing. after removing the housing I saw that the passenger switch wasn't even plugged in, and it wouldn't plug in, because the plug was the wrong type.. i guess.. since the driver works. and they're different.
So I'm going to purchase a repair plug for both sides and one switch, because it doesn't work. (checked everything with voltmeter. motors are good)
The switch holding plate was also glued to the housing. So many ghetto fixes....
So I came up with a solution. I don't think it looks bad, and it beats paying 50 bucks for a new plastic housing.
Just drilled holes where the studs are supposed to be located, and put a bolt through with nut on the back. Maybe some day I'll buy a new one.
So the car ran... like ****... The quadra-junk wasn't working right. So I yanked that and the cast iron intake manifold, So I could see more of what was going on. Discovered I have Truck heads.
Not such a big deal as I'd like to go aluminum anyway.
I have a bunch of receipts that came with the car showing the engine was just rebuilt in 2004. and it still looks pretty good inside so far. (Haven't pulled the heads yet, but valve train looks great.)
And finally for my last post of the evening from the weekends worth of work (I'm sorry this turned out so long).
I'd like to track down the person who painted this thing. SOOOO much overspray and improper prep. Just have a look.
obviously my wipers don't work. None of the vacuum stuff did actually.
Well I'm open to suggestions. Remember I don't have money, and honestly I don't know much about working on cars, but I learn fast and I'm doing this to learn and have fun.
If you don't like hacking and modifying then don't read this thread.
I'm military with a wife and kid, therefor i don't have much money, so updates will probably be quite far a part. Due to lack of said funds I'll be doing what it takes to make things work. I'm not building a show car by any stretch. I'm after function over form. I just want to make this car run and have fun.
With that out of the way...
I got rid of my 93 Ruby, and picked up a "68" with a 454. I put that in quotations because I believe the chassis is about the only thing left that is from 68.
The further i dig the more I find. So here's to a grand adventure.
Here she is the day I brought her home.
Not pretty, but I'm going to do what I can.
first thing I decided to break into was the issue of the passenger window not working. Also the switches had fallen down inside the e-brake housing. after removing the housing I saw that the passenger switch wasn't even plugged in, and it wouldn't plug in, because the plug was the wrong type.. i guess.. since the driver works. and they're different.
So I'm going to purchase a repair plug for both sides and one switch, because it doesn't work. (checked everything with voltmeter. motors are good)
The switch holding plate was also glued to the housing. So many ghetto fixes....
So I came up with a solution. I don't think it looks bad, and it beats paying 50 bucks for a new plastic housing.Just drilled holes where the studs are supposed to be located, and put a bolt through with nut on the back. Maybe some day I'll buy a new one.
So the car ran... like ****... The quadra-junk wasn't working right. So I yanked that and the cast iron intake manifold, So I could see more of what was going on. Discovered I have Truck heads.
Not such a big deal as I'd like to go aluminum anyway.
I have a bunch of receipts that came with the car showing the engine was just rebuilt in 2004. and it still looks pretty good inside so far. (Haven't pulled the heads yet, but valve train looks great.)
And finally for my last post of the evening from the weekends worth of work (I'm sorry this turned out so long).
I'd like to track down the person who painted this thing. SOOOO much overspray and improper prep. Just have a look.
obviously my wipers don't work. None of the vacuum stuff did actually.
Well I'm open to suggestions. Remember I don't have money, and honestly I don't know much about working on cars, but I learn fast and I'm doing this to learn and have fun.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Gilbert AZ
Ok. So photobucket is back up now. So time for a little update.
Got the engine cleaned up, replaced some gaskets, plugs and wires, and put the tired old q-jet on the shelf. I replaced it with an edelbrock 750. I know many are against such a thing, but it matters not to me. The edelbrock was a good ebay pickup. It runs really rich
, so I ordered a jet and metering kit. Even with that im still in the carb for less than 100 bucks. 
I took a video of it running on my phone. I'll try to get it up on youtube, and post a link for it here. It's not quite dialed in yet, but still sounds pretty mean.
But here's a few pics...
Got the engine cleaned up, replaced some gaskets, plugs and wires, and put the tired old q-jet on the shelf. I replaced it with an edelbrock 750. I know many are against such a thing, but it matters not to me. The edelbrock was a good ebay pickup. It runs really rich
, so I ordered a jet and metering kit. Even with that im still in the carb for less than 100 bucks. I took a video of it running on my phone. I'll try to get it up on youtube, and post a link for it here. It's not quite dialed in yet, but still sounds pretty mean.
But here's a few pics...
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 89
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From: Gilbert AZ
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 912
Likes: 47
From: Kansas City MO
Dr. Rebuild's website is www.docrebuild.com. Not sure if you can order online as I alwas called them when I needed something. His catalog is thorough, but all black and white...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,937
Likes: 848
From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
nice project! i was never a fan of the c4 cars so good move. I'm not a fan of quadrdjets either but I'm even less a fan of edelbrock/ Carter arbitrary but good luck. picture shows a big block hood so the next option is an l-88 hood. it shows peanut port heads, not the best but with a cam intake and headers you should have a nice running street car. good luck and thank you for your service to our country.
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Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
Safety first!
Phalanx,
Good luck with your project, good things will come from it, I'm sure. But safety first! Steering, suspension and brakes MUST be the first things you fix, as these could save your life if an emergency arises.
I recommend you contact Jeff Grantmeyer at Borgeson Universal Company on 860-482-8283 or www.borgeson.com. They manufacture a modern integral power steering box that will bolt straight into your car and it will clear any factory exhaust manifold. You re-use your manual Pitman arm and keep ALL of your factory steering components.
You will need to collapse your steering column a few inches to accomodate the slightly longer steering box that has the control valve and power ram built into it. You will need to purchase a Borgeson rag joint to connect the steering column to the box. The steering box # 800108 will cost $459, the rag joint # 055043 will cost $112.
You can either buy a new Saginaw pump, bracket, pulley and hose kit from Borgeson or perhaps buy the first three second hand. A new Borgeson hose kit # 925103 is $66 and will connect a Saginaw pump to the Borgeson box. No core is required and this upgrade will make your steering a hell of a lot easier, take up less room, have fewer parts and most of all, will make your driving safer.
There are several vendors who can make your brakes safer, and other suspension parts are readily available locally. But your steering is one area that needs special attention, and the Borgeson system is the best on the market.
Good luck with "Frankenstein."
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
Good luck with your project, good things will come from it, I'm sure. But safety first! Steering, suspension and brakes MUST be the first things you fix, as these could save your life if an emergency arises.
I recommend you contact Jeff Grantmeyer at Borgeson Universal Company on 860-482-8283 or www.borgeson.com. They manufacture a modern integral power steering box that will bolt straight into your car and it will clear any factory exhaust manifold. You re-use your manual Pitman arm and keep ALL of your factory steering components.
You will need to collapse your steering column a few inches to accomodate the slightly longer steering box that has the control valve and power ram built into it. You will need to purchase a Borgeson rag joint to connect the steering column to the box. The steering box # 800108 will cost $459, the rag joint # 055043 will cost $112.
You can either buy a new Saginaw pump, bracket, pulley and hose kit from Borgeson or perhaps buy the first three second hand. A new Borgeson hose kit # 925103 is $66 and will connect a Saginaw pump to the Borgeson box. No core is required and this upgrade will make your steering a hell of a lot easier, take up less room, have fewer parts and most of all, will make your driving safer.
There are several vendors who can make your brakes safer, and other suspension parts are readily available locally. But your steering is one area that needs special attention, and the Borgeson system is the best on the market.
Good luck with "Frankenstein."
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
Quadrajet.
Phalanx,
Forgot to mention, a rebuilt Q-jet will cost a hell of a lot less than a tall hood. If you bite your tongue and have the Q-jet fixed, you can then remove that spacer and the stock hood should then clear the carb. From your description, it just needs a few of the choke parts and a thorough check out and rebuild. Money well spent and you can keep your stock hood.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
Forgot to mention, a rebuilt Q-jet will cost a hell of a lot less than a tall hood. If you bite your tongue and have the Q-jet fixed, you can then remove that spacer and the stock hood should then clear the carb. From your description, it just needs a few of the choke parts and a thorough check out and rebuild. Money well spent and you can keep your stock hood.
Regards from Down Under.
aussiejohn
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 89
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From: Gilbert AZ
Thanks for the info john. I'll look into the borgeson set up. There's a guy locally that will sell me a complete rebuilt setup for $600. So I'll have to look into the pro's and con's of newer tech with more room, or stock spending less money.
As far as the hood, I had intended to switch to an L-88 wiper door delete hood anyways. Same guy has a forest of hoods. So the carb clearance issue is only a minor setback. I know people are against deleting the wiper door for originality and whatnot but I'm deleting all vacuum. I plan to have a cam that will not generate enough vacuum anyways. I'll be installing an electric motor system for the headlights, and i don't have power brakes now, so I'll probably run a dual master cylinder setup.
As far as the hood, I had intended to switch to an L-88 wiper door delete hood anyways. Same guy has a forest of hoods. So the carb clearance issue is only a minor setback. I know people are against deleting the wiper door for originality and whatnot but I'm deleting all vacuum. I plan to have a cam that will not generate enough vacuum anyways. I'll be installing an electric motor system for the headlights, and i don't have power brakes now, so I'll probably run a dual master cylinder setup.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 20
From: The only Corvettes in Highett Victoria
Warranty???
Phalanx,
The guy with the "rebuilt" set up is hopefully honest, but what if he isn't? Will he give a three year written warranty on all the parts? Will he still be there in a year or two if something goes wrong?
Borgeson will give you that warranty, plus their box has a faster ratio with only 2.7 turns LTL. Plus it has variable boost so, high boost when parking, minimal when going straight. The stock system gives maximum boost at all speeds and the steering feels too light when highway driving. Plus it has four turns LTL.
Borgeson has been in business since 1914 and is run by hot rodders who know their products intimately. The box, rag joint and hose kit will cost $637 plus postage and all parts have a three year written warranty. Is that "rebuilt" box at $600 REALLY a better deal?
Caveat emptor.
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
The guy with the "rebuilt" set up is hopefully honest, but what if he isn't? Will he give a three year written warranty on all the parts? Will he still be there in a year or two if something goes wrong?
Borgeson will give you that warranty, plus their box has a faster ratio with only 2.7 turns LTL. Plus it has variable boost so, high boost when parking, minimal when going straight. The stock system gives maximum boost at all speeds and the steering feels too light when highway driving. Plus it has four turns LTL.
Borgeson has been in business since 1914 and is run by hot rodders who know their products intimately. The box, rag joint and hose kit will cost $637 plus postage and all parts have a three year written warranty. Is that "rebuilt" box at $600 REALLY a better deal?
Caveat emptor.
Regards from Down Under
aussiejohn
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Gilbert AZ
No real update
Got the carb sorted hopefully.
Set the timing, and it's running great in the garage.
Tomorrow will be the true test. It was dark out and since none of my vacuum works couldn't take it out.
Give it a few runs up and down the street and hopefully all is well.
Then it's on to the next project.
Set the timing, and it's running great in the garage.
Tomorrow will be the true test. It was dark out and since none of my vacuum works couldn't take it out.
Give it a few runs up and down the street and hopefully all is well.
Then it's on to the next project.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: San Diego CA
I think the car may have been built by a local guy here. I got a few C4 parts from him when I had my 93. He always has craigslist posts up like this one: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2296886216.html
He does literally have a forest of fiberglass. I haven't gone to him for parts yet on this car, because he tends to charge a bit much. He restores factory original stuff, and puts the corvette tax on them.
He does literally have a forest of fiberglass. I haven't gone to him for parts yet on this car, because he tends to charge a bit much. He restores factory original stuff, and puts the corvette tax on them.
If you have another, that would be much appreciated!
I'm in San Diego as well (Carlsbad), so if you ever need a hand wrenching let me know.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Gilbert AZ
I appreciate the offer. I'm in Campo about an hour east of SD. So it'd be quite a trip for you.
Here's some fresh links for the guys parts. If you just search his phone number in auto parts it'll come up with all his posts also. phone number is (619)210-4444.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2367774647.html
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2367772735.html
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2367759873.html
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2367590893.html
Here's some fresh links for the guys parts. If you just search his phone number in auto parts it'll come up with all his posts also. phone number is (619)210-4444.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2367774647.html
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2367772735.html
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2367759873.html
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2367590893.html
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
Just so you know - there were no '68 454s. The engine didn't appear until the 1970 line. So yeah you've got a lot of different stuff, but it should be a fun car nonetheless. Good luck in your endeavor.
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From: Gilbert AZ
Yes, I'm aware 454 wasn't offered in '68. There is nothing about this car that is original. I've found parts from many years installed. It's fine with me though. That just means i can do anything i want without worry of raping something original or of value.
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From: Gilbert AZ
Not sure if anyone is still subscribed to this thread.
I had a lot of life changes recently. Separated from the navy (honorably of course), Got a new job, had another kid, etc... You know, the kinds of things that put project cars on the back burner.
So I'm all settled in my new job and in my new city (phoenix), and the corvette fund is starting to pick back up. So hopefully I'll have some build updates soon.
I had a lot of life changes recently. Separated from the navy (honorably of course), Got a new job, had another kid, etc... You know, the kinds of things that put project cars on the back burner.
So I'm all settled in my new job and in my new city (phoenix), and the corvette fund is starting to pick back up. So hopefully I'll have some build updates soon.