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Can I remove the power steering pump/reservoir without disconnecting hoses and get the engine out?
What is best way to get the radiator and shroud out? Hood is off.
Can I leave the exhaust manifolds on and pull the engine okay? Seems like it'll be easier to remove the manifolds while it's on an engine stand.
Should I have any concerns just disconnecting the oil pressure sensing line. Will there be air problems when I reconnect at the block?
What is your preferred way of attaching chain to the engine?
Thanks in advance for all the help/suggestions.
The shop manual says you can unbolt the pump and lay it aside. I removed mine.
The best way is to remove the shroud, radiator and core support as a unit. Three bolts on each side, two on the bottom and the center support road at the bottom.
You can leave the exhaust manifolds on. When you put the engine back in, leave off the studs at the flanges...they just get in the way.
The oil pressure gauge line will take care of itself when reconnected.
When I removed my engine, the tranny was already out, I had a special lifting bracket and the core support was still in. When I put the rebuilt engine back in, the core support was out and the tranny attached. I used a load leveler and attached the four chains to the head.
Removal of the radiator support is straightforward enough - replacement of the rad core support can be problematical - it adds a significant degree of rigidity to the front end, if you remove it things may get a little bit misaligned -to get the support back in and to be able line-up bolt holes you may need to a bit of jacking one side or other of the car to get it to fit back in - I comprimised and removed all bolts except for lower ones each side - then pivoted the top of the support forward to give a little extra clearance.
Removal of the radiator support is straightforward enough - replacement of the rad core support can be problematical - it adds a significant degree of rigidity to the front end, if you remove it things may get a little bit misaligned -to get the support back in and to be able line-up bolt holes you may need to a bit of jacking one side or other of the car to get it to fit back in - I comprimised and removed all bolts except for lower ones each side - then pivoted the top of the support forward to give a little extra clearance.
That is a plan. If you remove the radiator and shroud from the core support, you will probably mess up the seals. Depends on whether or not the OP is planning on restoring the radiator assembly. If not, he would be better off pulling it as a unit and leaving it undisturbed. Notice I supported the front clip...and was careful not to put weight on the fenders. My restored radiator package went back in as a unit before the car was pushed back into the garage. All the holes lined up, no cracks or damage whatsoever. Took about 10 minutes.
I was told by a very experienced vette mechanic to work on these cars the way the factory did...think unit assemblies. I would never try to remove or re-install a manual transmission under the car again. I modified a $44 Northern Tool engine cradle so that it allowed me to install the clutch, bellhousing and transmission outside of the car.
Thanks Rat
I'll be givin' it a go tonight. I hear ya about not cracking the fiberglass because the rad. frame is out. Might try a piece to hold the top together but is out of the way for pulling the motor. I like unistrut.