Made the decision to upgrade alternator before installing new Dewitt Aluminum radiator with dual spal fans.

My question is this, where is the best place to get the alternator? I prefer to buy new and realize I need the wire harness adapter with built in resistor and have to upgrade current wiring. I've read the posts and seen the pictures of the install but don't recall seeing where the alternators were purchased from. Let me know.

 

Just did this a while ago....Got mine at Summit. Chrome - $168


Install
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...tall-pics.html

Wiring
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...pals-pics.html

 

The OP is asking about CS-144...

This place seems to have everything - I am considering purchasing from them soon.

http://www.alternatorparts.com/categ...4.html#pulleys

 

I got the CS-144HD from them ^^^ and it works well...MUCH better then the 2 different "parts store" CS144s that I tried..... It was the same price as well.... about $210 shipped.... Keeps up with EVERYTHING electrical on my car and been reliable for the last 2k miles...

I definitely recommend them..

 

Me too!

 

They were great, walked me through the order plus made sure I had correct pulley.
Thanks alot. Ordered it today along with the pigtail. Looking forward to the install and the new aluminum radiator and fans in a few weeks.

 

Which "pigtail" did you end up ordering?

 

W1204 Delco Type Si Series to CS Series Wiring Harness Adapter Without No Charge Light and resistor built in.

 

you better also upgrade the wiring from the alternator to the starter post... or you will fry it. I did.

 

Already done.........10 gauge wire with 14 gauge fusible link. Thanks for the input

 

Thanks - my order is in too!

 

I'm guessing that you have your fans connected at the starter or battery? Mine are connected to the Alternator end of the wiring so theoretically, the current draw on the path from the Alternator to the starter should NOT increase if nothing is changed or added.

 

They seem to be the place to turn to for this upgrade. It's on my list for this Spring.

 

I just finished this swap. I honestly cant see any change in how the car behaves. At idle when the fans kick on I see no drop in RPm or any change to the voltmeter with the factory alternator.

 

I believe that it is recommended to run the fans off the battery or starter post, the alternator has voltage spikes, and lows during idle and other issues which are suppressed by the battery. MSD PWM and other such devices when hooked up to the alternator are known to blow frequently.

 

Your lucky.... I turn my car on... hit the brakes and my stereo will turn off.... same thing with blinker or headlights... at the same time I'm not seeing a good charge.. gremlins suck

 

I agree, electronics devices don't like running from there at all!

 

Even though the fan is hooked up to the alternator, the original wiring from the alternator to the starter will be too small to carry the amperage if you have a severely discharged battery. The alternator will try to pump all its available power to the discharged battery and if the wiring is too small it will get hot.

 

ANYTIME you have a severely discharged battery -you run the risk of burning up the alternator... upgraded power wires or not...


These cars were NEVER designed to have these amounts of current go through them. Putting accessories that pull lots of juice w/ the stock wiring is asking for trouble. Adding a hi-amp alternator w/o any other mods is also a great idea if you have AAA....and replacement value insurance...

HOWEVER - the C3's battery in the interior compartment is really a big plus in design- GM got lucky...

The battery inside the car- keeps it more isolated from heat and cold. The battery does more than just start the car as was originally thought out by GM engineers 40 years ago.
It does several other things needed these days-
Stabilizes the voltage (as Pauldana said) and it also filters the dirty power created by the alternator. Not really that important for stock headlights but is a lifesaver for the MSD boxes etc...

These has been tons of discussion on what to do-

My thoughts... for the C3-

Run a large gauge wire from alternator output to the starter terminal - the wire from the starter to the battery should be 4GU or larger.

Bigger is better
8 GU can handle 150 amps
10 GU can handle 100 amps
12 GU can only handle 60 amps

REMEMBER- these are MAX "ballpark" rating at 70 degrees w/ copper wire...rating goes DOWN as temp increases-and if bundled, rating goes down as well. And how hot is it underneath your hood????

The ratings are basically how "HOT" a wire can get "safely!!!" Isn't that an "oxymoron?"

So why not spend the few extra bucks for the thicker wire? I personally think 10GU is too small for a CS 144....

The next trick is to run the wire SAFELY from the Alt to the starter- wire ties-split loom tubing-away from heat and moving parts...

I don't like to put safety devices in the path- fusible wire/fuses/circuit breakers...If you have done your job correctly protecting the wire from a short- these devices do nothing but slow down the flow.

Richard