BRAKES..who needs um?
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From: Rockledge Florida
BRAKES..who needs um?
Same as everyone else on here having brake issues. Replaced all rotors,calipers lines,etc,etc. R&R'd booster with a Cardone reman. Bled everything. No pedal and the pedal itself will not return to the brake light switch, so the brake lights stay on. I compared the one I took off to the new one and it was exactly the same,however, the previous owner had replaced the booster already and said he never got it to work. Short shaft? I'm at a loss. anybody????
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I am about to get drowned out by a dozen people who are unaware of this and/or do not understand this issue. And many of them will suggest that you have mismatched a deep well MC with a shallow rod booster. I assure you that situation will give a different set of symptoms and will not prevent the brake pedal from returning to its proper rest height.
I have corrected both issues on my own car.
Last edited by wcsinx; Apr 7, 2011 at 12:31 PM.
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From: California
air air air air..... air in the system,,,air.... got to bench bleed the M/C properly and then power bleed the whole system for what seems like gallons...
but.... if you really think you bleed the system and its all gone (still my bet air) take the M/C off and have some one move the peddle up and down and make sure you see the shaft moving in and out... if that looks good, then make sure it is far enough out to contact the m/C when peddle is up
but.... if you really think you bleed the system and its all gone (still my bet air) take the M/C off and have some one move the peddle up and down and make sure you see the shaft moving in and out... if that looks good, then make sure it is far enough out to contact the m/C when peddle is up
Last edited by pauldana; Apr 7, 2011 at 03:57 PM.
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From: Plano TX
If the pedal rod turns out to be correct, the next suspect is the Cardone booster. Years ago I went thru 3 cardone boosters. Every one had a different fault. I finally gave up and got a Delco which solved the problem.
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From: Rockledge Florida
I still haven't rectified my problem. I have talked to 5 different corvette part houses, been to 2 different corvette seller/rebuilder shops, talked with Chevrolet (that was a joke), and read 100 posts on here and other web sites. 90% of the people I talk to say there is only 1 booster and booster rod. My concern is, why are the other 10% saying there IS a booster with a longer rod??? AND , if there is a booster with a longer rod, why doesn't the other 90% know about it?? The one I had mounted in the car, had a shaft that was 4in long. Ecklers measured theirs for me...4 in. Zip's did the same. With the booster in my car,with the 4in shaft....my brake pedal would not come up to the stop light switch. It seems like I need a little more shaft (No pun intended).
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Lakeland Florida
From what I can read from WCSINX post is there is the rod that sticks out of the front of the booster in the engine compartment, and the PEDAL push rod that connects to the brake pedal.
If this is the case then it may be part of the problem I am having, and sounds like the problem you have. If the rod that connects the pedal inside the interior is too short, then it will pull the brake pedal closer to the floor, and it will not return to correct position. That sounds like the problem you are having. Nothing to do with air or bleeding in the system yet if your pedal is not returning to the normal position.
kdf
If this is the case then it may be part of the problem I am having, and sounds like the problem you have. If the rod that connects the pedal inside the interior is too short, then it will pull the brake pedal closer to the floor, and it will not return to correct position. That sounds like the problem you are having. Nothing to do with air or bleeding in the system yet if your pedal is not returning to the normal position.
kdf
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From: Florida
I still haven't rectified my problem. I have talked to 5 different corvette part houses, been to 2 different corvette seller/rebuilder shops, talked with Chevrolet (that was a joke), and read 100 posts on here and other web sites. 90% of the people I talk to say there is only 1 booster and booster rod. My concern is, why are the other 10% saying there IS a booster with a longer rod??? AND , if there is a booster with a longer rod, why doesn't the other 90% know about it?? The one I had mounted in the car, had a shaft that was 4in long. Ecklers measured theirs for me...4 in. Zip's did the same. With the booster in my car,with the 4in shaft....my brake pedal would not come up to the stop light switch. It seems like I need a little more shaft (No pun intended).
Note the tiny space between the pedal and the hinge mount support above the vacuum hoses near the top of the pic. Compare yours to this.
Note that the threaded part of the brake switch is at the most shallow setting and the threaded part is approx 1-1/2" long, plenty for even a bent bracket.
Also note the length of the clevis, that can be changed too, napa has some available.
Safety Car
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From: Lakeland Florida
After I replaced my Power Booster the brake lights stayed on all the time. I had to adjust the brake rod switch that Noonie shows in his post. After that the lights came on when the pedal was pushed.
Also, if you need to check some additional reference information look for some additional posts by Noonie. His comments helped me with my brake problems last month.
kdf
Also, if you need to check some additional reference information look for some additional posts by Noonie. His comments helped me with my brake problems last month.
kdf
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From: Rockledge Florida
Done!!!
OK...After 2 months of aggravation and torture, The Brakes are working. Ecklers techs did some checking around for me and found out there is a small,(short) adapter that goes onto the pedal push rod. It was about 1 1/4 inches long. I installed it, bled my brakes...problem solved. On to the next headache. Thanks for all your input.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Omaha ne
low brake pedal
This really should be archived in the tech section. I just spent a week and a half pulling my hair out on a customers vehicle. The brakes worked fine but would not lock up under a panic stop due to hitting the floor. The car , a 74, evidently had the booster replaced with the shorter pedal pushrod 76(?)-82 version somewhere in it's life.
This results in a shorter pedal travel which will not displace enough fluid to lock the brakes in a panic stop.
A now obvious clue to this bubbafied problem is the height of the brake pedal to the accelerator pedal. The brake should be an inch or so higher. With the later booster on an earlier car it will be level or slightly below the accelerator pedal. SPECIAL THANKS to WCSINX FOR HIS POST. I owe you a case of beverages (beer??)
This results in a shorter pedal travel which will not displace enough fluid to lock the brakes in a panic stop.
A now obvious clue to this bubbafied problem is the height of the brake pedal to the accelerator pedal. The brake should be an inch or so higher. With the later booster on an earlier car it will be level or slightly below the accelerator pedal. SPECIAL THANKS to WCSINX FOR HIS POST. I owe you a case of beverages (beer??)
Last edited by TJP440; Aug 26, 2011 at 08:33 PM.
5th Gear
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OK...After 2 months of aggravation and torture, The Brakes are working. Ecklers techs did some checking around for me and found out there is a small,(short) adapter that goes onto the pedal push rod. It was about 1 1/4 inches long. I installed it, bled my brakes...problem solved. On to the next headache. Thanks for all your input.
Pedal will go down but doesn't return all the way to turn off the brake switch.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Dallas TX
St. Jude Donor '06-'09,'22,'25
This is why it's always a better idea to start a new thread and link to the old thread if needed. Hope this helps you get a response....
